Am considering the added caster versions of their FLCA bushings namely PFF5-101G vs. SPF4476-80K. Is the added caster worth it? Can they be pressed in with the carriers still in the car? How do they hold up over time and miles? TIA!

 

Good topic, thanks for starting it.

I too was interested in those and how the added caster would affect driving dynamics, but then got sidetracked as usual and completely forgot about it.

Would be great hearing from folks with direct experience.

I have the standard version Powerflex LCA bushings and they've been stoutly well serving, but was curious about the offset version.

I tend to favor the Powerflex brand over others --- perhaps because I'm an old skateboarder and like to know what the poly durometer is and Powerflex makes it very easy because of the color coding:



Other brands are sometimes a bit vague it seems.

SuperPro also makes the eccentric style bush, and although not openly stated, I believe the duro is indicated by the last 2 numbers,
so they'd be 80A and 90A if my hunch is correct...

https://superprousa.com/products/spf...-double-offset

:

https://superprousa.com/products/spf...-double-offset

:

And now,
to add more even more choice! LOL

Whiteline also make them:

https://www.whiteline.com.au/product..._number=W52614

 

I have both, one car with the offset and one car with the purple powerflex.

I prefer the offset, a little less camber loss

 

MrBlah, which one? The Powerflex PFF5-101G? Does it add 2 deg. pos. caster as advertised? How much more neg. camber did it give you? Installed on the car or dropped subframe? Quicker steering response?

 

Superpro, it's not a night and day difference but anything that adds castor helps, I also add castor at the camber plates

I install on car with the press out tool

 

Caster will help with straight line stability, and it will help with camber gain as you turn. Added caster will also increase steering effort slightly. Since Minis are front wheel drive, the camber gain during turns is the biggest benefit. Anything you can do to help the front wheels grip...

 

Thanks for all the input. Decided on the SuperPro SPF4476-80K. Contacted SuperPro and learned that the SPF2550 series is old stock and the newer 4474 and 4476 series have superceded them. Supposedly two durometers of material and a metal sleeve around the insert for smoother rotation.

 

Just completed the install on the SuperPro SPF4476-80K kit and wanted to pass along a couple of tips. Since these bushings have the steel outer sleeves, they really are a little easier to install over those that don't have them because they tend to stay put as you press them in. Also, if you'll put them in your freezer overnight, the diameter will shrink about a thousandth or two which helps as you press them in place. After installation, the increase in caster can easily be seen.

 

Hi NC,

Any feedback on these offset bushings? how do they feel? any difference in handling?

thanks,

 

I've driven VIR at four events this year with the new bushings and I can't really say that the difference was noticeable over my previous '05 MCS with the regular POWERFLEX poly bushings. That said, the car certainly feels planted and turn-in is not vague. I get much less "tail-wag" going up the climbing esses. Given the choice, I'd definitely do the offset bushings.

 

Oh thanks for the insight, I’ll definitely get these when the rubber bushings on my ‘06 go. Was going for the regular ones, but for not much more considering the labor, these seem to be a no brainer.

 

Are there any differences in the install procedure from regular ones in regards to orientation/alignment, needing set screws, etc.? Also, can you post a side view after pic to show how the wheel sits in the fender?

 

GP is up on all fours doing post-HPDE inspection but will post a pic when it's back on the ground. Installation is straightforward. No setscrews. Place the holes outboard and horizontal. Press in with standard tool. As mentioned above, putting them in the freezer overnight helps.
p.s.: I noticed that the SuperPro website has a Holiday Sale going on right now with free shipping on orders over $50.

 

Hi NAM and NC, I'm in the middle of lowering the subframe to replace the control arm bushings and a few other things. Got almost everything disconnected and ready to drop the subframe, except for the13mm steering u-joint nut. No matter what I do, it just keeps spinning and not loosening even when holding the bolt in place. Any advice on how to get the nut loose?

Thanks,

 

Unfortunately, on my car I had to cut the bolt, then replace with a new bolt and nut when completed.

 

Oh wow. That must have sucked to cut from a tight space. I guess I lucked out.

update: It was a two man job for me. While I pinched the round head of the bolt with pliers, I had my wife loosen the nut from the top with extensions and a wobble adapter. The steering wheel was turned 90degrees.

Mod Mini on youtube makes things look a lot easier than they really are.

 

I went at it from the pedal box area with a Dremel. It was a pain, but really not that bad.