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SuspensionSprings, struts, coilovers, sway-bars, camber plates, and all other modifications to suspension components for Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
After plenty of research, I for some reason couldn’t find record of anyone ever trying to address this issue. Here’s the scoop.
I have an ‘04 R53 that I have lowered on BC Racing coilovers. Stiffer, lower, adjustable shocks, wonderful. Of course, wanting to take full advantage of the lowering, not only visually but mechanically, I bought a pair of front roll center adjusting spacers. For anyone who doesn’t know, these insert at the bottom of the steering knuckle and have the effect of lowering the position of the front control arm’s outer ball joint. The goal here is two-fold: to return the control arm to its parallel relationship with the ground so that the wheel’s travel is strictly vertical instead of tucking into the fender, and also to raise the roll center of the front suspension, therefore reducing body roll, lots of good stuff.
The problem comes at this point when the control arms are sitting happily in their new positions, having been lowered on the inside with the chassis on the new suspension, and the outside with the addition of the ball joint spacers. The tie rods however, have only been lowered on the inside with the steering rack being mounted to the chassis. The tie rod ends are still mounted to the steering knuckle in the same place, so they’re pointing upwards, like you do when you’re imitating a goose trying to fly. And so, because the front lower control arm and the tie rods are no longer parallel to each other, when one wheel goes over a bump by itself, it steers.
Bump steer.
And so, having come to this realization, I thought I would have a look around at what bump steer kits were out there for the R53. Surely, this platform has been around for almost 20 years now, there’s gotta be a few options.
Literally not one.
Dumbfounded, I decided to make one for myself. I stayed up for hours researching tie rod taper pitches and heim joint bores and inner tie rod thread pitches and options for custom fabrication. A few weeks later, after some trial and error, I have all of the parts in, and I’m hoping to put them on in the next few days. What I’ve come up with is a collection of parts from various sources that, when assembled together, should allow me to replace my factory tie rods with assemblies that allow me to adjust the steering joint up and down with a range of almost three inches.
Here are a few pics of my excited “throw it on there to get a picture” episode that I had today as I was at work eagerly awaiting to get home to my custom rods, also pictured below. Will post updates when finished.
I read in the past that someone had used Z3 tie rods. I actually have the Megan ARC with my PSS10'S and Vorshlag camber plates. I haven't noticed much but your solution looks like a winner. Please keep me posted.
I read in the past that someone had used Z3 tie rods. I actually have the Megan ARC with my PSS10'S and Vorshlag camber plates. I haven't noticed much but your solution looks like a winner. Please keep me posted.
Interesting, I’ll have to see if I can find one.
What else have you done to yours in terms of suspension?
Got them on after work today. First impressions: should have done this years ago! Bump steer is significantly reduced, and I can feel that the front wheels are much less busy doing any turning through the suspension travel, much less residual vibration over bumps. Secondly, and I suppose as a result of the first observation, the ride comfort is significantly better! Feels like I just put much nicer springs on the front of the car. Steering effort has also been slightly lessened at smaller angles. Before, the effort required seemed to be greatest close to 2/3rds lock and then it would get easier towards full lock. Now, steering effort increases linearly all the way to full lock.
it was pointed out to me that I didn’t have a jam nut on the far end of the rod on the heim joint, so I have those on order. Also waiting on dust boots for the joints, and I’d like to find different top stud nuts due to the shallowness of the ones provided.
Keep a CLOSE watch on those Heim joints for looness. Like every 200 or so miles..!
They don't last long on the street, bearing covers or not.
I've got a similar kit on one of my cars. I'd never use it on a mostly street driven vehicle.
And as for the general ride, that's all in your head..! Squaring away the bump steer does nothing, good, bad, or indifferent driving down a mostly straight road or highway..! Check the geometry, for yourself. There used to be programs on the net that would help with that, don't know if they are still around.
Works only when the rack & pinion rack is longer on one side than on the other.
Keep a CLOSE watch on those Heim joints for looness. Like every 200 or so miles..!
They don't last long on the street, bearing covers or not.
I've got a similar kit on one of my cars. I'd never use it on a mostly street driven vehicle.
And as for the general ride, that's all in your head..! Squaring away the bump steer does nothing, good, bad, or indifferent driving down a mostly straight road or highway..! Check the geometry, for yourself. There used to be programs on the net that would help with that, don't know if they are still around.
Works only when the rack & pinion rack is longer on one side than on the other.
Mike
Thanks Mike. I’ll keep an eye on them. Not sure there’s much to go wrong in only 200 miles, but I expect to have to replace them every so often.
I have to disagree with you on the ride quality, as I drive this car daily and am very familiar with its nuances. The amount of vibration through the steering wheel is significantly reduced and it is much more comfortable to hold on the drive home.
Made a few adjustments. Took one spacing ring out and moved the heim joint up a hair, turns out this was the magic spot! As you can see with the suspension loaded, the relocated control arm and tie rod are now perfectly parallel to eachother and the wheels do not toe in or out at all throughout their travel. Also added dust boots with some lube for protection.
I am currently trying to resolve a creaking problem in the helm joints. It seems that as opposed to problems I've experienced in the past with them where they will become loose and clunk, these are so tight that they skip when attempting to rotate. I also have new top nuts coming in as I wasn't happy with the size and overall durability of the provided one. Will post pictures.
Can you share a step-by-step with a list of parts and your personal driving experiences after your solution is a keeper? Funny I read this thread today as I was thnking about this problem for another car.
Definitely will. I've discovered that I need a new steering rack due to an accident in years past when it was not replaced. I've decided to refresh the whole steering system. I have the upper column on hand now but the rack is pricey. It may be some time but I will definitely post as I make changes and I will post a parts list once I am confident everything is solid.
Definitely will. I've discovered that I need a new steering rack due to an accident in years past when it was not replaced. I've decided to refresh the whole steering system. I have the upper column on hand now but the rack is pricey. It may be some time but I will definitely post as I make changes and I will post a parts list once I am confident everything is solid.
CXarFreak427 - Was hoping for your procurement and parts list for your Bump Steer Mod Fix, IM 1.25 ,lowered with megan spacers (no shim spacer) on 16" drags ,(tangient: had to grind off excess lower joint mount flush with nut now have suffiecient clearance) Still evaluating but im fairly confident I felt the TOE mentioned . your fix looks fairly elegant with the Hiems if its still performing.......UPDATE? I see your a Mini Tech , explains alot
Hi there. Sorry I've been away for a minute. I'm going to be putting the car up in the air this weekend to do a lot of work and will check on these to see how they're holding up. Having driven on them for a few thousand miles now I suspect I will find some play as I can feel clicking in the steering while jiggling at a stop. Nothing worrisome, but maybe a more high quality heim will be in my future. Will post an update soon.
Danraabe, no I haven't heard of them. Will check them out.
Hi there. Sorry I've been away for a minute. I'm going to be putting the car up in the air this weekend to do a lot of work and will check on these to see how they're holding up. Having driven on them for a few thousand miles now I suspect I will find some play as I can feel clicking in the steering while jiggling at a stop. Nothing worrisome, but maybe a more high quality heim will be in my future. Will post an update soon.
Danraabe, no I haven't heard of them. Will check them out.
Hey you never posted an update with this. Do you have the specs for the taper measurements, which cars are similar what length you need etc? And did you ever find a more durable Heim joint? I'm looking at doing something similar as I have the ball joint spacers which have helped already, but now i would like to correct the bump steer.