Any feedback on ST 90250 coilovers?

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Jun 24, 2018 | 05:12 PM
  #1  
My shocks may need replacing so I’m considering a low end quality coil over kit.

2013 Mini Cooper 2 door hardtop (non S).

Has anyone retired this kit? Is it much harsher than the oem set up?

Look forward to the feedback!
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Jun 24, 2018 | 05:26 PM
  #2  
ST is owned by KW. Are there better systems out there? Of course. Are there worse systems out there? I do believe so. Is the car going to drive like a Cadillac? No, and it never did.

Would think they are similar to the other units in that price range and if you do some searches there are threads here about them.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...r-the-r53.html
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Jun 24, 2018 | 10:48 PM
  #3  
I think several people are running those coilovers on the forum. You might have more luck finding reviews by searching for ST-X coilovers. Here’s one of the more informative threads for those coilovers on a 2nd gen: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-pictures.html

Here’s my experience and with ST’s, although on a 1st gen and ST-XTA’s. The ST-XTA’s handle a lot better and are less harsh than stock, even with the coilovers lowered a fair amount. The difference between the X and XTA coilovers are adjustable damping, linear springs, and adjustable front camber plates. Other than height, my XTA’s are set as installed straight from the box.

As far as I know, the only difference between ST-X’s and KW v1’s are the what the shock bodies are made of, and the warranty. If you drive a lot in wet or snowy areas and plan to keep your car for a long time, I would think twice on the ST’s because they only have galvanized bodies vs stainless steel/Inox used for the KW’s. If your using factory 17’s, you’ll probably have to run at least a 5mm spacer to clear the lower spring perch on the front. This was also the case with the XTA’s, even with the skinnier linear springs.

Also, ST usually has a rebate/sale, or two, every year and future use gift cards are sometimes included by ECS Tuning at the same time increasing the savings.
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Jun 25, 2018 | 04:41 AM
  #4  
Thanks for the replies.

I plan on running the oem 16 Rims.

I do do live in Canada- we get a lot of snow and the roads are heavily salted in winter....

cant justify moving to the KW V1 ...

i think if set the height one aummmer - I wouldn’t need to adjust it.

its nice to hear that they can potentially ride better than the oem set up.

Im debating a Bilstien sport + lowering springs VS the entry lever ST coilover set up. Lowering springs have certainty lowered the car but never achieved the look I wanted. I’m sure the adjustable coilovera will.

Thanks so much for the feedback.

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Jun 25, 2018 | 06:00 AM
  #5  
We are running a $50 ECS Gift card right now on these and of course in the contiguous USA free shipping. EuroSport Tuning is one of our distributors in Canada if you want go through them. Just tell them you want some ECS Stuff.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-suspension-techniques-parts/st-x-performance-coilover-system-fixed-damping-90250/90250~st50/
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Jun 25, 2018 | 06:12 AM
  #6  
Thanks - I’ve been eyeing that ECS offering ;-)

When go ahead I’ll have it shipped to my PO box in NY.

That said I’m still investigating a subtle clunk in the front suspension first - likely a ball joint or tie rod.
Reply 1
Jun 25, 2018 | 10:51 AM
  #7  
Suble clunk
Quote:
Thanks - I’ve been eyeing that ECS offering ;-)

When go ahead I’ll have it shipped to my PO box in NY.

That said I’m still investigating a subtle clunk in the front suspension first - likely a ball joint or tie rod.
Can you please post your finding, im experiencing unknown clunk whenever i turn the wheel in all directions during low speed especially when put in reverse, i thought maybe due to the suspension Perch when i replace it with KONI where they are well known to seperate from the tube, replaced the lower control arm bushing when it was 40K miles and only has 69k now, i even changed the control arm link lubricate all rubber connections, installed plates and braces and still makes weird noise, my last option is to repalce the hub/bearing, the noise is coming from the right front. One thing i noticed is both top rear holes where the towe mount are getting bigger or wider, with the brace helps? I just installed the brace this year and this car is 2002 MCS.
Thank you
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Jun 25, 2018 | 11:01 AM
  #8  
Quote:
Thanks - I’ve been eyeing that ECS offering ;-)

When go ahead I’ll have it shipped to my PO box in NY.

That said I’m still investigating a subtle clunk in the front suspension first - likely a ball joint or tie rod.
Ok, great. Thanks for the order.

Yep, i had mine clunk and 9 times out of 10 it was the outer tie rod. Both on my R56 and my R52. Just the nature of the MINI suspension.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...r-tie-rod.html


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Jun 26, 2018 | 07:24 AM
  #9  
Interestestonf re: tie rod.

So I have isolated a subtle clunk to the passenger side. When I push hard back and forth at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions - it’s solid.

When I push hard back and forth at the 12 o’clock position I hear a subtle clunk. Both of these are with the car on the ground.

When I raise the passenger wheel off the ground - I cannot reproduce it. Any thoughts?

I suspect this this is one of the ball joints - either inner or outer and bulky lifting the wheel it’s a different angle that firms up the ball joint?

Feedback would be appreciated.
Reply 0
Jun 26, 2018 | 12:19 PM
  #10  
Tie rod
Quote:
Interestestonf re: tie rod.

So I have isolated a subtle clunk to the passenger side. When I push hard back and forth at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions - it’s solid.

When I push hard back and forth at the 12 o’clock position I hear a subtle clunk. Both of these are with the car on the ground.

When I raise the passenger wheel off the ground - I cannot reproduce it. Any thoughts?

I suspect this this is one of the ball joints - either inner or outer and bulky lifting the wheel it’s a different angle that firms up the ball joint?

Feedback would be appreciated.
If your tie rod is the culprit have you notice your tire wearing out? All these years of driving whenever the tie rod, ball joint are going bad the tire wear out unevenly, tie rod and ball joints are enclosed and lubricated unless the boot is ripped and chances the grease escaped and causing metal to metal and causing to clunky noise, my 02 MCS was making noise when the lower control arm bushing was bad only when driving on bumpy road and small potholes but already changed. I suspected mine was the hub bearing but i want to confirm first.
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Jun 26, 2018 | 03:08 PM
  #11  
Aball joint
Quote:
Interestestonf re: tie rod.

So I have isolated a subtle clunk to the passenger side. When I push hard back and forth at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions - it’s solid.

When I push hard back and forth at the 12 o’clock position I hear a subtle clunk. Both of these are with the car on the ground.

When I raise the passenger wheel off the ground - I cannot reproduce it. Any thoughts?

I suspect this this is one of the ball joints - either inner or outer and bulky lifting the wheel it’s a different angle that firms up the ball joint?

Feedback would be appreciated.
When ball joint going bad you noticed when turning especially when you hit a little bump or small potholes the car will pull/ slide.. My R55 is doing this now...i thought because the tire was slightly bald so i replaced all tires and still does pull when turning either directions but no clunking sounds.
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