Suspension Spi Twincharged Mcs, Suspension changes?
Spi Twincharged Mcs, Suspension changes?
I f you had installed the "Spi Twincharged Mcs"
What suspension and or wheels set-up would you make for a Mini S that has 225-250 hp at the wheels.
Interesting question. Please feel free to to give your best advice.
What suspension and or wheels set-up would you make for a Mini S that has 225-250 hp at the wheels.
Interesting question. Please feel free to to give your best advice.
Originally Posted by USAMINICOOPER
I f you had installed the "Spi Twincharged Mcs"
What suspension and or wheels set-up would you make for a Mini S that has 225-250 hp at the wheels.
Interesting question. Please feel free to to give your best advice.
What suspension and or wheels set-up would you make for a Mini S that has 225-250 hp at the wheels.
Interesting question. Please feel free to to give your best advice.
in addition to springs and shocks and camber plates,
a thorough going over of all the compliant bushings: engine and gearbox nounts, control arms and stock strut plates are pretty flexy. Don't forget to upgrade the braking power.
If you are really serious, change out the pistons and rods, as they will be the weak link after the clutch.
Titanium swaybar links are a joke, right? right in there with titanium valve retainers for a 7k redline engine?
a thorough going over of all the compliant bushings: engine and gearbox nounts, control arms and stock strut plates are pretty flexy. Don't forget to upgrade the braking power.
If you are really serious, change out the pistons and rods, as they will be the weak link after the clutch.
Titanium swaybar links are a joke, right? right in there with titanium valve retainers for a 7k redline engine?
Originally Posted by jlm
in addition to springs and shocks and camber plates,
a thorough going over of all the compliant bushings: engine and gearbox nounts, control arms and stock strut plates are pretty flexy. Don't forget to upgrade the braking power.
If you are really serious, change out the pistons and rods, as they will be the weak link after the clutch.
Titanium swaybar links are a joke, right? right in there with titanium valve retainers for a 7k redline engine?
a thorough going over of all the compliant bushings: engine and gearbox nounts, control arms and stock strut plates are pretty flexy. Don't forget to upgrade the braking power.
If you are really serious, change out the pistons and rods, as they will be the weak link after the clutch.
Titanium swaybar links are a joke, right? right in there with titanium valve retainers for a 7k redline engine?
pistons are on the way
Jlm:maybe you should go for a parachute; that always looks cool at the drive-in.
Thats the answer!! A Parachute..hehehe
Really, is there anything to make is safe in a Mini with this much power without a parachute.
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OK... So you strengthen the engine internals, put in a beefy clutch and an LSD. You change suspension; mounts and bushings are swapped for stiffer compounds. Its now conceivable to put gobs of torqe to the wheels/road.
Light wheels + big brakes & WIDE-*** rubber. Wheel wells rolled & install a subtle (there is such a thing?) wide body kit that accomedates 225mm rubber without any rubbing.
Next, I'm wondering about the strength of the trans / driveshafts?
Handling tradeoffs? Definately - turn-in & overall ballance + weight gain of the w-body kit. ...But ability to put power down, improve braking and laterall controll - worth it.
Light wheels + big brakes & WIDE-*** rubber. Wheel wells rolled & install a subtle (there is such a thing?) wide body kit that accomedates 225mm rubber without any rubbing.
Next, I'm wondering about the strength of the trans / driveshafts?
Handling tradeoffs? Definately - turn-in & overall ballance + weight gain of the w-body kit. ...But ability to put power down, improve braking and laterall controll - worth it.
Originally Posted by jlm
maybe you should go for a parachute; that always looks cool at the drive-in.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
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