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Why did he mess with the rear camber?
Barring having camber arms, I would have left them at -2 degrees on both sides.
You now have 1 degree of cross camber between the rears. Can get a little squirely.
Ive done a few thousand alignments in my first career. Seriously.
Disregard, I just went out to look at the geometry on mine.
The toe link affects camber, you were toed out, bringing it in brought the lower part of the wheel out at the rear causing the camber to go negative.+
17" wheels here too. I installed NM adjustable control arms in case the springs threw anything off. After a couple hundred miles I had the alignment checked and everything was spot on.
Disregard, I just went out to look at the geometry on mine.
The toe link affects camber, you were toed out, bringing it in brought the lower part of the wheel out at the rear causing the camber to go negative.+
Personally, I would spend the money on arms.
Despite what the alignment guy said I am used to doing everything correctly and if rear control arms only cost around $200 then I think it's a good investment to have everything set up properly.
I will be installing the rear control arms myself. Always do all of the work myself. Since toe is spot on is there a way for me to set the camber myself at home instead of going to have another alignment or is that foolish and just let the alignment guys do it correctly.
Will adjusting rear camber with adjustable control arms throw off toe?
I will be installing the rear control arms myself. Always do all of the work myself. Since toe is spot on is there a way for me to set the camber myself at home instead of going to have another alignment or is that foolish and just let the alignment guys do it correctly.
Will adjusting rear camber with adjustable control arms throw off toe?
On this geometry toe affects camber and camber affects toe.
On an alignment machine, its easier to see the cause and affect, by going back and forth.
You're going to bring the camber in and toe will go out, as in the original measurements.
Helix makes some good stuff. I was going to order their control arms, but when I had all my suspension work done they were still in the development phase. I ended up going with the NM Adjustable control arms.
They have been sitting in the garage for a week now. Haven't had a chance to install them yet, despite probably taking only 30 minutes. Maybe I will get them on today then rear alignment next week.
They have been sitting in the garage for a week now. Haven't had a chance to install them yet, despite probably taking only 30 minutes. Maybe I will get them on today then rear alignment next week.
Make sure they calibrate the Steering Angle Sensor, after the alignment.
They forgot to do mine, also, might not pertain to you, the tech had to reinitialize the EPS (Electronic Power Steering) to keep the car from pulling under 30 mph.
My springs are sitting in the garage, been working too much.
I have a shop and a 19 MCS F55. I had a client recently come in for a sprint install on a 16 F55 JCW. Simple job but the vibration under acceleration issue crept up. The issue is a geometry change on the CV half shafts. The inners on our cars are very stubby and don't allow for much "free play" even from the factory. When you lower the car that free play is taken up by the change. Honda S2000s suffered from this and require a spacer between the axle flange and axle shaft..
Why do you ask if Porsches etc don't have this issue? Porsche's are my specialty BTW. They simply have completely different suspension setups with a lot more factory adjustability built in.. however if you really lower let's say a 996 C4S the front axles will get destroyed.. similar to what I mentioned that "free play" gets taken up. Even the rear factory toe/camber arms will only allow so much adjustment range when lowered. In short their setups are already "optimized" for low ride height and the possibility of going a bit lower..
As for different part numbers in the EU. That comes down for the Tüv certification process which is required for road worthiness.
Feel free to ask me any questions..
PS bump stops should always be trimmed before lowering springs install. I use let's say a 30mm drop I'll trim 20mm off the stop
I have a shop and a 19 MCS F55. I had a client recently come in for a sprint install on a 16 F55 JCW. Simple job but the vibration under acceleration issue crept up. The issue is a geometry change on the CV half shafts. The inners on our cars are very stubby and don't allow for much "free play" even from the factory. When you lower the car that free play is taken up by the change. Honda S2000s suffered from this and require a spacer between the axle flange and axle shaft..
RESPONSE: Its the wear pattern made in the inner CV bucket, prior to lowering, the joint after lowering no longer rides in that wear pattern, and wants to tramline back into the groove. This the spacer in the S2000. to bring it back to its original position within the inner bucket.
As for different part numbers in the EU. That comes down for the Tüv certification process which is required for road worthiness.
RESPONSE: I have and still in communication with H&R in Germany regarding a bushing issue I have with my rear sway bar.
Have had many conversations on their philosophy, as they are OEM to many European auto brands.
They make spring specs based on the cars weight. Thus a different spring for the F55, than the F56.
The US distributor does not sell a spring for the F55.
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PS bump stops should always be trimmed before lowering springs install. I use let's say a 30mm drop I'll trim 20mm off the stop
RESPONSE: Bump stops (BTW wrong name) should only be trimmed based on the spring manufacturers recommendation.
As they are technically now, a suspension component. Not as in the past.
Read this: http://www.hrsprings.com/technical/m...-jounce-bumper
RESPONSE: Its the wear pattern made in the inner CV bucket, prior to lowering, the joint after lowering no longer rides in that wear pattern, and wants to tramline back into the groove. This the spacer in the S2000. to bring it back to its original position within the inner bucket.
I have read this before about the wear pattern. So that would say that the vibration would not occur with new CV joints. Any idea of how long a new car can go before this becomes a problem when lowered?
I will note that I seem to remember reading that people had replaced CV joints and still had the vibration problem and that people with older cars didn’t have a vibration problem with vibration when lowered??? And I seem to remembered that there was discussion about not being able to go beyond an inch to an inch and a half with the MINIs. Not sure I can find those past threads and I am going by memory here and could be mistaken. But recollection is that it seem like no one knew for sure what the caused the lowering vibration or what the fix was.
I’m interested as I am looking at lowering my new JCW and don’t want problems.
I have read this before about the wear pattern. So that would say that the vibration would not occur with new CV joints. Any idea of how long a new car can go before this becomes a problem when lowered?
I will note that I seem to remember reading that people had replaced CV joints and still had the vibration problem and that people with older cars didn’t have a vibration problem with vibration when lowered??? And I seem to remembered that there was discussion about not being able to go beyond an inch to an inch and a half with the MINIs. Not sure I can find those past threads and I am going by memory here and could be mistaken. But recollection is that it seem like no one knew for sure what the caused the lowering vibration or what the fix was.
I’m interested as I am looking at lowering my new JCW and don’t want problems.
Vetsvette doesn't have that problem, as he lowered his car when new. The inner cv bucket wear pattern did not have a chance to start.
I did mine at 6K, had a small vibration, now at 12K I cant feel it, as it created a new wear pattern.
Vetsvette doesn't have that problem, as he lowered his car when new. The inner cv bucket wear pattern did not have a chance to start.
I did mine at 6K, had a small vibration, now at 12K I cant feel it, as it created a new wear pattern.
08-29-2017, 05:13 PM
And I seem to remembered that there was discussion about not being able to go beyond an inch to an inch and a half with the MINIs. Not sure I can find those past threads and I am going by memory here and could be mistaken. But recollection is that it seem like no one knew for sure what the caused the lowering vibration or what the fix was.
