I've posted this before, but since it's counterintuitive why we'd want to add a part to the rear that would make that end slip "sooner"...

Understeer is when the front tires are overworked and lose their grip before the rears do, meaning there is grip to spare (and going to waste) in the rear. A bigger rear bar transfers more of the work toward the rear by taking some of the load off the front (At any particular speed in a corner there will be a specific amount of weight transferred toward the outside 2 tires as the car rolls. If the overall spring rate in the rear is set higher, there will be more weight pushing down on the rear tire and therefore less on the front tire). Spare grip will then be made available in front, allowing the front to do more work by going faster than before. Better balance delays skidding until both ends have developed their maximum cornering power and this extracts the most overall grip possible.

However, as meb pointed out, the million dollar question is if the driver can control this at the limit under all conditions. Understeer is chosen by the factory because it's easier to convince the jury it was the driver's fault when the car drove straight through a fence. If the car spun through the fence going backwards, and especially if it is repeatable, a jury would be far more likely to find a technical fault with the car and the manufacturer liable. Audi had this problem with the TT and recalled them all to install a stiffer front suspension and (ugly) rear spoiler. So the amount of understeer is chosen for the "least common denominator" driver. Even should you believe you are far better than that driver, do note that some understeer is usually faster through magazine benchmarks like slalom and lane-change simply because it is much easier to control. It takes a lot of trial-and-error to find what you are comfortable with.

Bottom line: whatever you get, adjustability is a plus.

 

ok - so why would u need a new set of endlinks??

 

3 reasons: Strength, adjustable preload, and less pliability (rubber v. heim joint). The first isn't really all that necessary wit the MINI. The second only comes into play if you start corner weighing the car or play with different holes side to side on an adjustable rear swaybar. The third would be applicable.

Hope that helps!
Randy

 

Some might feel the price is high for Webb's bar at $475, but heck, my H-Sport Comp bar was $230, then with Alta endlinks at $120 for a pair, that's 350 bucks... not that much difference, especially for a better system. If I was in the mkt now for a rear sway bar, I would definitely get this one...