I've tried what seems to be everything. channel locks/vise grips on 21mm socket + 6mm hex key, 13/16" spark plug socket and 6mm hex key, etc.

Must I now seek compressed air? Does anyone make a 13/16" spark plug socket in 1/2" drive so I can fit a 3/8" drive extension through the opening? What gives? I was so excited to dust off my spring compressors only to have to put them away when the pesky nut made my head spin!!!

Thanks for any advice...

M

 

If you don't have the special socket, put the strut back on the car, then
loosen the top nut with just a regular socket. Should come loose without
rotating the piston shaft (at least on mine, it didn't). :smile:

Don't loosen too far, as you will not be able to get the strut out of the
hub carrier.

 

btw, its a good idea to loosen the top nut on the piston shaft while it is on the car even if you do have the special socket. It's just easier to hold the
strut in place.

 

KC---


thankyouthankyouthankyou

I had tried that before but just assumed the nut was spinning WITH the shaft (moderators please don't censor that - it was a serious remark! ).

H&Rs are in, thanks to dandp for cutting a kid a deal. I think I might just have to move the adjustable rear bar to the front setting tomorrow...

damn what an easy job. 7PM - 11PM.

Marty

 

marty- glad it all worked out. Some tricks I learned from doing other cars.

hehehe.

 

I hope you will pardon me because I have not looked at how the struts come off on the top. What special tool are you talking about. I expect to change springs next weekend.

Anyone have any pics? Thanks for your explanations.

 

They are like most Bilstein struts - the nut is threaded onto the strut piston shaft, where the top (threaded) part of the shaft is recessed for a 6mm allen wrench. If you are looking directly down at the shaft, the six-sided allen recess will be staring right back up at you.

Feel free to PM me - I am thinking of adding some tips/pointers to the how-to in this forum (like what sockets, wrenches, and other tools are needed, along with more of a step-by-step write up than what is already provided). Having done LOTS of spring replacements in the past, I'd say this is a relatively easy job. Without air tools it took me just under 4 hours, totally solo. I'm pretty ham-handed, too...

And after putting about 200 miles on them since I finished last night, there's a DEFINITE improvement in handling AND in looks, and I measured a 1" drop front/1.25" drop rear. I installed H&Rs (would have bought H-Sports but I picked these up used for less than half the price of new springs as I'm a cheap bastard).

I'll snap a pic tonight and try to post it tomorrow. Now for the RDR adjustable control arms...wow is there some serious negative camber out back

M

 

Marty,

Thanks for the reply. I guess to some, a 6MM Allen is a "special tool." As you say, sounds like any other Euro front strut.

 

Well I looked at it. It looks like the problem is getting a box end wrench or something on the nut that will allow you to get the 6MM Allen into the shaft end. Is it better to pull the three nuts and pull down the mount with the strut so that you can get a box end on the strut shaft nut? Does loosening the nut with a socket before loosening anything else allow the nut to come off without turning the strut rod as indicated in answer to your original post?

Did you have to use a spring compressor on the left front in order to snake the strut out as indicated in another thread.

Thanks for the help. If I know the best way before starting, it will save me a lot of experimentation I'm sure.

I was surprised at how short that front spring is. It must not be much more than one coil.

Thanks for the help,

 

>6MM Allen is a "special tool."



Im sure you noticed but the top nut on the piston shaft is recessed so
you need a special socket with a hole in the middle to get to the nut while
holding the piston shaft. It does not matter even if it's off the car; the
nut is recessed.

You do not want to loosen this top nut too far while on the car as the strut
will extend... any extension of the strut more than a few mm will prevent
you from removing the strut from the car. It's a pretty tight fit.

No, you do not need a spring compressor on the strut while you remove the
strut from the driver side. You just rotate the hub carrier ccw (I think it
was ccw, maybe cw) and the strut bottom will come out of the hub carrier
without any other tools.

 

right. I had no problems getting the driver's side strut assembly out. the procedure was as follows:1. remove dust cover from upper strut bearing assembly (inside engine compartment) - then use 21mm socket to break initial torque on top strut nut (1/2" drive with breaker bar does the trick) - just a quarter or half turn will do
2. remove ABS sensor and brake line from strut housing
3. remove swaybar droplink from strut housing (16mm box-end wrench, 5mm allen socket - same set-up as strut but the nut isn't recessed)
4. remove 18mm bolt that holds strut to spindle (at this point the strut will come out of the spindle collar if you rotate the strut assembly ccw).---alternatively, you can remove droplink at this point as the nut is more accessible.
5. remove 3 13mm nuts that hold strut bearing assembly to strut tower (inside engine compartment).
6. remove now-free strut assembly
7. on work bench (or other suitable place), compress stock spring
8. CRITICAL TO MY SUCCESS - remove top strut nut by placing 21mm socket (shallow, 1/2" drive in my case) on nut, then put 6mm allen key INTO the recess of the strut piston shaft. This makes sense if you then use a VISE GRIP or CHANNEL LOCKS to grip the outside of the 21mm socket while using a box-end wrench to lever against the allen key (keeps it from turning with the nut).

ALTERNATIVELY, I tried using a 3/8" drive 6mm socket and 3/8" drive breaker bar to keep the strut piston shaft from moving while turning the 21mm socket with vise grips. This method works up to a certain point, where the nut has traveled sufficiently far up the piston shaft as to prevent the allen key from engaging due to interference between the 6mm allen socket and the opening of the 21mm socket. At that point a transfered over to a 6mm allen key.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Of course, I claim no responsibility for tool failure, injury, or other harm/damage done during said procedure. However, if it works for you, please send me a $50 thank-you note

Marty

 

That is ALWAYS the "special tool" when you don't happen to own the "special tool" (and the way I do it).

 

You know, being modestly paid has truly lent itself to some really creative tool usage. I'd say a good half of those innovations result in some serious blood loss!!!


the coolest "driven-by-desperation" tools are usually composed of impact sockets (not slippery like chromed sockets) and snap-on vise grips/channel locks (also not chrome-plated). Like glue on grip-tape

M

 

I used this setup to get that nut off:

 

good point. I had tried using a 13/16" spark plug socket - but that was before kenchan's suggestion for getting the nut loose initially. that's one tight bastard if you try to loosen the nut after the strut assembly has been removed!!!

I actually ended up buying a set of long allens with the handles on the end...

hindsight - ain't it a biotch

m

 

Right after I read Marty's post this moring and then went out and looked at the strut mount I got a box off the brown truck from a generous NAM member with a set of Cooper S springs that he sent me free for the shipping cost. In the box was the manual from his H Sport spring set. It showed the spark plug socket and Allen. That's when it dawned on me that a spark plug socket has a hex on the end. Then I undestood the suggestion.

With all the good explanations I am headed out to the shop in a few minutes. The car is sitting under my lift and ready to go into the air. I will see how much I can get get done tonight. I also have a rear sway bar to put on while the rear shocks are out.

The setup picture that early apex showed brought back memories of overhauling a German engine about 20 years ago when funds were even more limited than they are now. I used a set of Metric sockets and lengths of Allen wrenches that I cut. That particular engine had Allens all over it and I did the whole thing with nothing more than a 10, 6 and 5 as he showed.

Also, this is the first car that I've owned for which I needed 16MM and 18MM tools. The Snap On man hasn't enjoyed much of my patronage since I was younger. I guess this is a break for him.

Thanks again for the help,

 

As a last resort there's always the old "rag and visegrips around the top of the shaft" trick. Even if you score it it never touches the seal.

 

Thanks for the help. I just got done chaging my front springs. The information here made for no surprises.

Tomorrow night I'll tackle changing the rear springs and putting in the rear sway bar.

Going from standard Cooper suspension to Cooper S springs is only lowering the car a 1/2" or so. Has anyone had experience with tire wear after lowering? The only thing I'm worried about is the toe adjustment. Has anyone seen lowering cause an appreciable difference in toe adjustment.

Thanks again for the explanations and advice. I'm now certified on MINI front spring replacement.

 

I haven't noticed any changes in tire wear with my H-sport (1inch drop) and don't expect any.

1inch is still within factory tolerance in most cars anyways...and I don't
weight so much to lower it that much further when Im in the car.

 

Finished the rear springs and sway bar. I got a late start and was too tired and dirty to drive it to see if it feels any different.

I now have Cooper S springs replacing the standard suspension on my non S Cooper. I also have an H Sport, three position adjustable rear sway bar, using the center adjustment. I will probably be letting my wife have this car, and get an S. At that time, I plan on putting a standard Cooper S rear sway bar on her car and recovering the H Sport bar for my S.

The rear sway bar was easier than I thought. All the instructions told about a wiring bundle as an obstruction while changing the rear sway bar. My car is a 2-04 build and there was no wire bundle in sight.

I'll drive it tomorrow and let you know if I feel any difference.

Thanks again for all the help.

 

from the how-tos I have read, that wiring bundle is only present on the S model.


FWIW on my MCS, the wiring bundle wasn't even close to being in the way when I did my rear bar. Took under an hour to install WITH the springs in and without removing the shock from its lower mount.

M

 

I had to do a lot of trimming on mine cause the swaybar rubbed the
sealant on the chassis and made creaking noises when I moved the bar
up/down by hand before putting everything back together. Took my knife
and trimmed and trimmed, and trimmed, and trimmed, and trimmed, etc....

Then needed to file the chassis a little bit too to make the brackets fit.

not to forget the episode where the manufacturer forgot to include
brackets in my kit

 

uh yeah, I bet it would be hard to fit that 25.5mm bar in the stock brackets WITHOUT bushings!


yow
M

 

I changed the struts on my Chrysler with a set up similar to the one shown, using a box wrench to drive a socket, except I did not have a socket with an outside hex on it.

I used a 1/2 inch drive 13/16 socket, and ground flats on the outside of the socket, then used an adjustable wrench to hold the socket by the flats while turning the 3/8 drive.

Not all 1/2 inch drive sockets will clear all 3/8 extension drives. Check out the combination if you head to the (Sears) hardware store to buy a socket.

John

 

I just got back from driving my MINI after the springs and sway bar install that I've been working on.

I live 20 miles from town. I drove to town and back and then made an excuse to drive it again. Most of that 20 miles is winding, hilly, FUN road.

That car rotates like you're sitting in a swivel chair. It's hard to imagine that it is the same car. It just handles GREAT now, and that's on the 175 65's.

I expect that the sway bar is responsible for about 90% of the improvement. It is an H-Sport, Sport, 19MM hollow bar with three settings. I have it on the center setting.

I am so pleased with the handling of this car now that I can't put it into words.

For a recap, it's a standard Cooper with standard suspension. It now has Cooper S springs and the H-Sport bar. I can't imagine any single modification that could be as dramatic as putting in the correct rear bar.

Before this mod I took issue with the claim that the Cooper drives like a go kart. Now mine DOES drive like a go kart.

Thanks for the preparation that everyone offered to make this mod go so smoothly.

Happy Motoring