Nothing to be concerned about - same coil-over (spring over strut) configuration.

The only mildly tricky part is compressing the spring to re-install over the new shocks, but OEM springs are relatively soft, and you can press it down with your body weight while a helper starts the retaining nut on top of the top hat. BTDT.

I also own a set of spring compressors from the old days (you can get a set for under $30, or borrow them for free from autoZone !), but didn't have to use them on either the fronts or the rears.

For $750+, you can easily buy a set of world class jack stands, a jack, torque wrench, and all new tools. And still have money left over for a year-long supply of beer!

Though the last part depends on how thirsty you are.

a

 

+1 on that.
It's more a question of WHEN, not IF you will strip the lower shock bolt threads inside the trailing arm.

BTDT. I think it took me about 4 remove/install round trip to strip those threads.

Instead of helicoil, I just bought a pair of grade 10.9 5.5" bolts, added a few washers, and now use them to bolt the shock to the trailing arm.

Sway bars don't add traction, they detract from it.
A stiffer rear sway bar will just get the rears to break sooner, diminishing overall traction available in the chassis.

With adjustable high quality suspension, stiffer rear shock settings will control the under-steer with minimum additional sway bar stiffness.

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Do you have a picture of your bolt set up? Did you drill out the trailing arm? Did you have to grind the back side of the arm flat? Are you using lock washers? New torque setting?

 

I did not drill the arms, just adopted a longer class 10.9 M14 bolt (120mm or ~5.5" long), with a custom washer on the outboard side, and standard flat and lock washers on the inboard side.

The rear trailing arm is cast out of aluminum, and you need a washer on the outboard side else the bolt will cut into the trailing arm as you torque it to the stock 122 ft.lbs.
The outboard side is not flat, with the top of the trailing arm cast slanting upward. I found a thick gas pipe with roughly 1/2" internal diameter, cut off about 10mm wide piece of it for a washer, then cut a ~5mm indent into 1/6ths of its side to go over that trailing arm indent. It was less than perfect fit, but good enough to keep the bolt from bending, and allowed me to torque it to the stock 122 ft.lbs.

I ordered my hardware from here: http://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_hex_...m_x_1.5mm.aspx

Will take a pic later today/tomorrow when I'll be swapping the wheels.

a

 

I got koni fsd front & rear shocks plus the rear sway bar installed for under $400. Welcome change in ride and feel over stock!

 

Enclosed are the pics, as promised.
Fits and works like a charm.
Pic 1 shows the parts, and a piece of thick pipe I used to fashion a washer to fit over outboard trailing arm angle. You can do w/out this slotted washer, but then you are likely to bend the bolt's head or cut into the aluminum trailing arm.

I inserted the bolt from out-board towards the center line of the car.
That way you can bolt/un-bolt the strut easily in the future.

Please note - you need grade 10.9 bolts, not just something out of an average hardware store. Grade 5 stuff in Home Depot may break from torquing to factory 122 ft.lbs, or from sheering forces exerted on the bolt.

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