knocking over bumps is normally due to the drop links no longer being the correct length due to lowering, especially at the rear the drop links/arb make contact with the spring/shock.

If you are running the stock drop links your front and rear ARB will now be pre-loaded, if you have the funds source some adjustable drop links, I run powergrid ones and they are fine, they can allow you to return the ARBs to a neutral position.

 

Here's a picture if what mine looks like on the drivers side, hope it helps.
How does it compare to yours?

 

Yes, very similar. Like yours, I do not really see any threads showing above the nut.

 

I was thinking about this. Would the roll bar simply be traveling too far upwrds and making contact with the body of the car?

 

I am usually not one to bring back to life really old threads...but it came up in my search...

Mindspin311...you are local, and near me...what did you end up figuring out with your install? Did you ever find the source of the clunk. I have a similar clunk, but am running KWv1 and IE camber plates...trying to figure out if it is the plates making all the clunk or if it is the endlinks?

 

Havent solved it yet. But, I am pretty sure it's the camber plates.

I took the car to Harrison Motorsports for an oil change and asked them to check the suspension to make sure something wasnt loose. They claimed everything was nice and tight.

So, putting blind faith in them, I have to guess that its the main spherical bearing in the Vorshlags. I may bring the car to Way and have him take a look at it.

 

I am very curious to hear what you find...I figured that my crappy IE plates were the cause...and was going to get the Vorshlags...but if they are going to do it too...I have taken mine apart 4 times and put it all back together only to have that clunk still be there.

Do you get the clunking noise when turning the wheel at really low speed, say backing out of a parking spot?

 

I mostly hear it when hitting bumps at low speeds. I have never noticed anything when turning the wheel.

 

Adding to an already old thread...I have similar issue, pretty loud banging over some of those rather unavoidable lines the road. Pretty loud. My only conclusion has been sway bar hitting the body? I however have no camber plates.

 

My guess would be the top nuts on your front or rear struts aren't tightened down fully. We had some loud clunking from the rear once when the nut wasn't sufficiently tightened. Now there just the regular occasional clunks from the solid Vorshlag camber plates or possibly the spherical endlinks. Never did bother to figure out which one it was.

 

I just got some Vorshlag's for my Ohlins. They have dual spherical bearings. One main bearing on the top and a another on the top spring perch.

 

that is what I thought about mine...but I did not have the noise right after install...and the top nut on my KWv1's has not moved...I marked it. The KW's also have the nyloc nut to help reduce the chance of it backing off...my stock top nut backed off terribly before I got the KW's....I am starting to wonder if my clunking over bumps is the sway bar hitting something...because I get a clunk while at speed on the track occasionally when I catch a rumble strip...I am almost positive now that the clunking while turning the wheel is the bearing in the IE plates.

 

Do you have IE fixed or adjustable plates?

 

Adjustable.

 

Sorry about a late reply, but the 3 nuts that mount the perch to the body or the very center nut with the damper adjustment inside it? if youre speaking of the latter that just spins when you try and tighten it. The other three nuts are tight. I'm kind of lost and getting rather annoyed with them.

 

^that top nut can't be tightened by using just one wrench, you have to use an offset wrench and hold the shock shaft in place with an allen wrench.

 

Gotcha. When you say the allen wrench is needed...does that go where you adjust the dampening? Or is there another one I'm Missing?

 

yep, that shaft that the top nut tightens down on, is shaped liked an allen wrench in the middle. Use the allen wrench to hold the shaft still against the tightening of the top nut. KW specs say only like 30 lbs/ft IIRC...what I did was basically back the bottom spring perch close to off, compress the spring, and then tighten the top nut down to the stop on that shaft. then put it all back together.

 

The Allen key, usually 6mm is in the center of the top nut. This is the preload on the top spherical bearing. If you haven't tightened it, that is your problem. Hold with 6mm Allen and tighten nut.

 

Thanks for the help! Gonna go give it a look and see if I have the available tools around to do it. If only the rears were as easy.

 

Thank you guys, that seems to have done the trick. I need to borrow a friends driveway to get the rears done. I still have the good loud THUD over speed bumps at my complex, but the road noise is gone. Is this the sway bar hitting the body? I purchased this car with the coilovers already on it. I'm really close to ditching these for a new set and starting from scratch so I can go through the process myself and know everything is right.