17x7.5 +40 offset.

On a side note, I think I got shafted by timwu who sold me his meth kit. Not a single posi-taps so I can't even tap into the ECU until I resolve the situation with him. 2nd time being shafted by him on this kit..

 

ra2fanatic
That is correct. The arms should be flush with the bar. The setup was designed with the correct overall length to give you the needed clearance and to keep your end links in a vertical position.
Just in case you do not find any wood give me a call should something change.
Steve

[QUOTE=ra2fanatic;3754265] Are the ends suppose to be flush to the end of the bar? I'll give tarett a call to confirm with them. This setup is here to stay. All these parts were bought with the intention of the third time being the charm. But I don't know I'll knock on wood

 

Got the panels and diffuser back up today. I'll work on the swaybar/endlinks tomorrow

 

[quote=THE ITCH;3754653]ra2fanatic
That is correct. The arms should be flush with the bar. The setup was designed with the correct overall length to give you the needed clearance and to keep your end links in a vertical position.
Just in case you do not find any wood give me a call should something change.
Steve

Talked to Tarett, and the arms do not have to sit flush with the end of the bar. The threading is there for the adjustment for your car. Your GP may install the same was as an R56, but the way the bar is aligned with the endlinks do differ. Had I adjusted the arms to be flush the endlinks would look like this \ / respectively. It would not be vertical as you mentioned.

And again, I asked about the endlinks, they don't have to be absolutely vertical, but they are relatively straight. The links were shortened to allow the swaybar arms to relatively parallel to the ground. I didn't bother taking a picture, but it is at this point, set.

 

You were right about the jam nuts coming loose. I just caught my passenger side control arm really loose, maybe around -3.x so I'll jack up the rear tomorrow and set it back to stock again. Alignment is scheduled for tomorrow.

 

Got my alignment done. Really aggressive, but damn the grip that's up front is really noticeable now. Before I ran -1.5 front and -2.0 rears because of stance from my CCW's, but this....wooooo

-3.1 front
-2.3 rear

 

Man..next time when u r in Orange County..hit me up..want to check your car. Do you have a picture of your car with the se37k? That is a sweet rim..one of my favorite from Volk.

 

Sure, you're welcome to visit me in El Monte as well. I'm always at my friends shop so you can always catch me there.

Crappy iPhone pic the day they went on.



@ the track.

 

i will pm you with my information. I am looking to put rsb, rear control arm, and kw v1 next week. I might just go down El Monte the following week to check out your car.

I've been looking for some nice wheels but no luck. Almost bought the c20 on here that you comment but he end up selling locally..bloody. Also look into se37k as well.

One thing i hate about mini is the selection of nice rim really not easily available in the used market. I mean i see some nice bbs lm and hre for audi, bmw and other higher end car for good price, but mini just very hard to find.

 

I've seen 5 lug MINIs, will a conversion help?

 

Nice nice. Well it looks like you're going in the right direction with everything so far. HRE for MINI is like $1500 a wheel before customization. I know I can get it down to 4, but their selections don't appeal to me that much. Those C20's I were told were trashed, hence my continued comment on that post ended on that only comment. Refurbing them would have pushed me more than I want to spend on wheels at the moment.

I would love to get another set of CCW's (3rd set -_-) but the front would look like **** because I'd have to clear my BBK and when I did have it, I had to push it out so much that it rubbed everywhere I went and it was horrible. 18x8 +20 offset in the front was just too much for me. If I did get another set, the fronts probably wouldn't even have a lip at all, which I don't know....doesn't look good in my head.

The SE37K's are hard to find since they've been discontinued for years, I know some shop has a set down in OC for like $2400, but damn, for that money I'd rather get some Advans (which I'll get later this summer). LM's just don't look that good on a MINI imho. They're 17s, but they look much smaller because of the face design.

If doing an adapter, the offset will be horrible and you'd still be limited yourself. Might be better, but more expensive, to retap the wheel bearing into a 5x120 if that were the case. Ducks did that and I wanted to do it too, but it just wasn't a cost effective method for me since I'd have to also get new hats for my stoptech and redrill the rears, etc etc.

 

You are correct on the LM. i had it on my b6 s4 19 inch. The rim still look small even at 19 inch. Imagine 17, really small. Ok..LM out.

Well now that you have mentioned about the c20, glad the seller sold locally. Just something about me and mesh..love those. I had Champion Motorsport rg40 on my s4, love those mesh.

On another note, the retap...how much do you estimate it will cost to retap?

the ccw, they sweet but sad part is i had seen one of STI and it was totally done so distasteful that really destroy the beauty of it.

 

I think 19" LM's look good though. They have a much better lip than for the MINI so at least it should have looked a lot better. Between the BMW I had and now the MINI, Volks have been my primary wheels I always go back to. Knowing that they're amazingly light and forged brings me back to them...

I'm not sure how much a retap would cost, the wheel bearing itself is around $100 each I think? Then a shop has to drill and thread the hubs, so I'm not sure what price range that'll fall...pm Ducks and I'm sure he can give you a ballpark price how much he got it done for.

As for CCW's. Here were the 2 sets I had. 1 in anodized gold and then anodized red. The red looks waaaaaay better in the end because of the swiss finish.

 

^^^damn that looks good! Nice job!

 

+1...

dang that looks sweet. i probably look for volk..price seems reasonable.

BTW, which of the advan rim u thinking of? RSD?

 

I've seen the RSD's on one of the DuelL AG cars and not a huge fan. I'm on the fence between RS or RZ. They'll get powercoated a different color when they arrive though.

Very close to this color...

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpos...69&postcount=1

And can be seen in September's issue of Super Street (Friend's BMW)

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=428

 

Between the RS and RZ...man tough call..both are nice. I think the RZ looks better. At least it less busier looking. Less spoke compare to the RS.

Your friend place, wouldn't happen to be motor werks? nicely setup. Nice setup but the wings..me not a big fan of wing that big..i know i know..that is not what she said..hehehhe

i think my mind set to the RS-D..now gonna find some deals on that baby.

 

On the old E92 when I had RS... Yes, LTMW. I'm always there chillin' and helping. It's a full WTCC body conversion. 600whp E90 single turbo. He already sold the car and has an E92 M3 ready for Liberty Walk conversion with ESS supercharger....the guy has deep pockets...lol.

 

Funny..just did google search on LTMW...LT as i assume is the guy name. Sounds like vietnamese to me..i am as well.

THe RS does look nice on your e92. BTW, why did you chose mini instead of keeping your e92?

 

What's the rumor with BMW M1 hubs being swappable?

 

Yup, Long Tran is co-owner. The BMW was a big fat lemon. Fuel pump replaced 3 times, so I lemoned it. Always wanted a MINI.

I'm not sure, no one hasn't tackled that project and I don't think I'll be the one doing it

 

ra2fanatic, mind share what spring rate the ohlins are setup with?

I'm also after a 5 bolt conversion in the near future. I have the ability to drill them and once setup to do one set its not hard to do a second set.

 

#400 front and #285 rear (these are the springs shipped with the Ohlins).

That's fantastic that you're capable of drilling for 5 bolt conversions. I contemplated doing that for such a long time that I finally gave up. Having to redrill everything from my rotor hats to the hubs and finding 5x120 with proper offsets, it just doesn't seem ideal for me. It's not like I own the tools to do it and even if I did, too much downtime getting it done, so I'd rather not.

 

Thanks, i'm running #450 in the front and #250 in the rear currently and looking to step up to #350 in the rear to get rotation out of the rear end.

If i did the 5 bolt conversion i would do it to a set of brand new bearings and just swap all at once. I couldn't afford the downtime either as this is my daily driver.

 

Ah okay. With the #350, you don't think it'll compromise your daily drivability? Seems a lot of people point at Ohlins and say the money isn't well spent because the spring rate isn't very good for track, but forget it's Road and Track. I've considered running some Hypercoils, but I love the ride quality now that even after I've set it to the stiffest setting on the track, the compliance is noticeable.