I have put on H&R springs, Hsport comp rear sway bar, and hsport lower control arms. I am taking it to the alignment shop and want to give him some specs to use. From my research I have found the following would be a good place to start on for daily driver and occasional track use:

Front -
*As much negative camber as I can get with removing the plastic pin
0 toe

Rear -
* -1.4 camber
* 1/16 toe in

My question about the toe in the rear, is this "total" toe in meaning both right and left, or is it 1/16 on each side?

Also, do these specs look good, for a compromise between handling and tire wear, or should I go a little less on the negative rear camber?

Thanks!

 

That should be "total", and NOT 1/16" on each side.
Keeping your toe in check will help reduce tire scrub wear, over the not-so-excessive camber setting.
You should be good with that starting reference; good luck!

- Erik

 

thank you!

 

Whats the advantage of having a little toe-in on the rear instead of 0 toe like the front?

 

On a street car, a tad toe-in on the rear helps avoid the back-end of the vehicle 'walking' or 'wandering'.
There's been archived threads noting that zero toe is ok, and keep the rear-end lively without being skittish, but some prefer the comfort of toe-in.

For reference:
* With rear toe-out, the outside radius wheel wants to add to the overall steering of the vehicle (which can cause oversteer).
* With rear toe-in, the outside radius wheel is resisting rotation (which can cause understeer).

- Erik

 

So would Slight rear toe-in create more understeer (not wanted for me)? Or would it be the same and keep the stability under hard braking better?

 

How much are you planning on?

During hard braking the front suspension compresses shifting weight balance to the front, which unloads the rear causing the opposite of bump steer typically producing more toe-in.

- Erik

 

I personally would put in camber plates up front and run -1.8 to -2.2 or so front camber. Then junk the big sway bar in the back for something smaller. Then you have better turn in, and a more neutral car in the apex. I would run zero rear total toe since you do take the car to the track. The rear -1.6 is a good starting point. Use chaulk, pyrometer and psi to determine what potential changes you want to make in the alignment.

In my opinion, this is a decent starting track setup that can be used on the street. If you run a street setup for the track, it would not be as acceptable there.