Im thinking I want to upgrade the brakes on my 2011 Cooper S. The main reason is that I really don't like the pedal feel, its to squishy and I don't like stopping distance. I figured a little car would stop on a dime then my GTI but the GTI stopped much better. Plus they create a lot of dust!!

So do I just need better pads or should I go discs and pads. As for the pedal feel Im thinking SS lines and the caliper reinforcer's. My Mini only has around 3k on it so far.

 

Yeah the brakes are crazy dusty. Im not sure if it's because there new. My mini has about 600 miles and the rims are dirty the very next day after cleaning them. Personally, I don't feel the squishy feel your talking about though.

 

EBC redstuff pads will take the squishy feel out and reduce the brake dust tremendously. Ss lines will really tighten it up.

I can go 2+ weeks and virtually no dust! Way Motor Works can help you here!

 

Those would replace the stock brake pads or would I have to get calipers also?

 

on my 2010 Mini S. Have gotten spoiled by some higher performance bigger Audi's.

First, let me take you a different route a bit. If it is stopping distance, whichever set of pads and rotors and such, stopping distance will net similarly for everyday highway or suburban or city use. Before everyone jumps on me, I don't mean track use, or Joe Hotrod driver or any of that. In other words, when you press the stop pedal for "right now, gotta stop" in a single critical braking situation, it's your reaction time, ABS and tire grip that are the top factors, then likely your car's handling performance to avoid the issue (a Mini +) and somewhere in there your brake feel and modulation. Once ABS is engaged though that's out the window and it's back to the first factors.

Thus, think about...tires. Since I wasn't a run flat fan to start, out those went. Instead, high performance summer tires, and 225's while I was at it. Net, meaningfully more feel of both comfort and traction than the rock hard big bucks Dunlop RF's it came with. If you read the comparative car tests for braking, notice the winners tend to be light as a plus, but all else being equal, the ones with the bigger stickier tires do materially better. Thus, 225's was definitely part of my equation (many others would say 215, but I went one more notch)

On your brake question, if you want low dust, good performance, reasonable price and available ( a problem in some brands and fitments), yes I would think EBC reds per several posters. Good Audi experience there, on both feel and much less dust. Green if you just want the lowest dust, red if you want a tad more aggressive but still close to street and without much of the OEM dust storm. Rotors--unless you get to the point of overheating, I don't see much there that will affect any daily drive feel issues, but your step ups could be things like better EBC products, or another incremental step up might be the DBA 4000 series. Beyond pads though, I would probably be looking at tires before a heavier upgrade--that also may compromise related warranty--like rotors. I already concluded "free" brake jobs for 40K miles of dust storms wasn't for me since I am DIY on brakes anyway.

 

Seriously, EBC Redstuff pads will give you great breaking power and very low dust for a daily driver. If that is what you are looking for.

 

Nice thats what I will do then! Might also pick up some SS lines.

I know that tires play a big role in stopping distances also. I also think that the dealer topped off the fluid when it was in yesterday. They said they did not notice anything out of the ordinary though.

 

Figured I would post this in the same thread:

Any special tools needed to push the piston back in the caliper? On past cars I used a large C-Clamp. Im going to also paint the calipers while I have it all a part.

Still thinking of doing SS lines also...

 

The rear calibers have to be screwed back in, the fronts just push back in.

SS lines are great. There are no brake stiffening pin kits for your 2011 brakes.

 

I just had my brakes apart this past weekend to paint the calipers. I had to use a piston tool (like this one) to turn in the rear pistons so I could re-assemble. The fronts went together no problem.

 

Can't you just use needle-nose pliers? Spread the jaws so the points fit in the piston indents and turn. I've been using this method on these type calipers for years (unless the Mini is in some way different).

 

yes your "old" method will work

as you state indirectly

the turn and push needed for the MINI rear brakes is not new or unique

the 'special tools' try to make it easier but are not required

 

EBC Red Stuff pads will be somewhat dusty the first 1500 miles. My 2011 MCS brakes had hardly any dust until I upgraded to EBC RS so I thought I had made a bad decision, but dusting is getting much lower.

 

I just put EBC Greens on the fronts for my '07 (got 'em from Way); took a bit to get settled, but now they produce far less dust. For pads I would def recommend.

Still one of the best OEM braking systems I've seen...

 

I just recently got Carbotech pads from WMW and I really like it.

As for SS lines, I got WMW version and my initial impression was "meh". It's better than OEM but I don't know if the quality is better than BF Goodrich brake lines. It's still a very good product.

 

I used to do this stuff with pliers and such when I first ran into these on Audi rears once they moved to auto adjusting parking brakes (the reason underneath it has a ratchet feature being overcome in screwing it in). First time I slipped and tore the caliper piston seal is when I bought the tool. The throw away prong ones that go on a socket drive are like < = $10. Seal cost like 2x that, plus I had to do it again. Since then I bought the "real" tool at a reasonable price (<$50 well made with all the adapters to cover lots of cars) from Harbor Freight or ECS Tuning. Sped job way up as well, and I service 3 cars in the family fleet w/ the same type of rear set up. Also works w/ fronts in lieu of C clamp, which also works fine.

 

If your brakes feel "squishy" you should bleed them. They should not feel squishy even when completely stock.