Suspension Sport suspension on Countryman S
Sport suspension on Countryman S
So I just ordered a Countryman S with the "Sport" suspension.
Dealer told me there were none of these available in the US and I had to order it special.
Does anyone here have one? or have you ordered one?
Dealer told me there were none of these available in the US and I had to order it special.
Does anyone here have one? or have you ordered one?
There is a thread in the Countryman General Discussion section. A few people have it. Most people who have driven both say there is not that big of a difference in the handling, but of course every bit helps.
Really looking forward to seeing a thread detailing your delivery and plenty of pictures.
Not sure how much lower it will look, but I know my MCS looked quite a bit lower than the non sport suspension MCS.
They say the springs are about 2 cm. shorter with a larger sway bar.
Photos as soon as I get it.
Still on track for Feb 27th (Week 9) production date.
They say the springs are about 2 cm. shorter with a larger sway bar.
Photos as soon as I get it.
Still on track for Feb 27th (Week 9) production date.
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Is about right about 1 - 2 cm lower. havent try the non sport so cant compare 

I have the sport suspension package and it is only 1cm lower then normal but difference is big almost no body roll and feeleing is closer to my old r56. But do not expect a miracle it is still a CM
Lowered R60 All4s
My R60 came with the normal Suspension. I changed mine for the Eibach and the ride is better than the stock springs, they are softer until you start riding the car hard on the curves. It lowered the car aprox. 1.6" Front and 1.5" Rear
I would like to lower mine too.
Thanks.....
These are Eibachs part # 5707.540 for the Cooper Countryman ALL4 S.
Not sure if it fits on NON all 4, maybe just a weight issue..... I bought them at Amazon for around $218. Gripmotorsports sells another Brand BG Springs.
I am not sure if the US Spec Countryman has a Hard ride, but mine is. With the Eibachs I feel the car "softer" than stock, but bumpier when driven hard and at tight curves, as the springs are progressive they get harder as they are compressed.Tirerack aso offers these springs, but they are special order. Ill take more pictures when it stops raining down here in Costa Rica.
Regards
Not sure if it fits on NON all 4, maybe just a weight issue..... I bought them at Amazon for around $218. Gripmotorsports sells another Brand BG Springs.
I am not sure if the US Spec Countryman has a Hard ride, but mine is. With the Eibachs I feel the car "softer" than stock, but bumpier when driven hard and at tight curves, as the springs are progressive they get harder as they are compressed.Tirerack aso offers these springs, but they are special order. Ill take more pictures when it stops raining down here in Costa Rica.
Regards
how about an approx. for the cost of the install?
Thanks for the info, I was snooping on your thread. Here is the link for the Countryman S (non ALL4): http://www.gripmotorsports.com/pi~pn...ort-23497.html
These will be bought today and luckily, I am in the US Army and we have shops that only charge us $4 per hour for a bay with a lift. I will be putting these on myself.
These will be bought today and luckily, I am in the US Army and we have shops that only charge us $4 per hour for a bay with a lift. I will be putting these on myself.
Thanks for the info, I was snooping on your thread. Here is the link for the Countryman S (non ALL4): http://www.gripmotorsports.com/pi~pn...ort-23497.html
These will be bought today and luckily, I am in the US Army and we have shops that only charge us $4 per hour for a bay with a lift. I will be putting these on myself.
These will be bought today and luckily, I am in the US Army and we have shops that only charge us $4 per hour for a bay with a lift. I will be putting these on myself.
I just installed a set of lowering springs into my wife's R60 All4 and I think that anybody with a decent tool set, mechanical ability and access to a spring compressor (even the cheap Harbor Freight versions would work) can do the job.
The only two sticking points worth mentioning (in my opinion) are getting the front struts out of the front knuckles and making sure that the lower rear strut bolts are installed properly.
For the front, I kept the upper strut attached to the strut tower, disconnected the anti-roll bar link (which allowed the lower control arm to drop down without the tension of the anti-roll bar) and used a large deadblow hammer to slowly separate the strut from the knuckle until it was far enough out to allow me to insert a bunt chisel into the split along the backside to help spread the knuckle open. This allowed the strut to slide out easily. There is a metal tab that is welded to the strut housing that goes down into this split in the knuckle, so you have to remove the strut partially before inserting the chisel or it will bind and/or damage the metal tab. Probably hard to visualize, but it will make sense once you see it.
The the lower rear strut bolts that are bolted into the aluminum lower arm can very easily be cross threaded, so be careful there. Other than that, it's just basic mechanics.
I ordered mine with the sport suspension. It is said to have the same upgrades as the yet to be released JCW with sitffer, springs and thicker sway bars for less body roll.
I was actually impressed that it does not knock out your fillings, it seems pretty plush at the initial part of the stroke but does not dive much under hard braking and not too much squat either in turns. Overall I like it and although I do not have a standard suspension model available to compare it to I would still say it is worth the extra $500 as the springs will remain stiffer longer and the heavy sway bar will also hold up better over the years, so from a longevity standpoint as well as initial ride quality I say go for it man.
I was actually impressed that it does not knock out your fillings, it seems pretty plush at the initial part of the stroke but does not dive much under hard braking and not too much squat either in turns. Overall I like it and although I do not have a standard suspension model available to compare it to I would still say it is worth the extra $500 as the springs will remain stiffer longer and the heavy sway bar will also hold up better over the years, so from a longevity standpoint as well as initial ride quality I say go for it man.
I just installed a set of lowering springs into my wife's R60 All4 and I think that anybody with a decent tool set, mechanical ability and access to a spring compressor (even the cheap Harbor Freight versions would work) can do the job.
The only two sticking points worth mentioning (in my opinion) are getting the front struts out of the front knuckles and making sure that the lower rear strut bolts are installed properly.
For the front, I kept the upper strut attached to the strut tower, disconnected the anti-roll bar link (which allowed the lower control arm to drop down without the tension of the anti-roll bar) and used a large deadblow hammer to slowly separate the strut from the knuckle until it was far enough out to allow me to insert a bunt chisel into the split along the backside to help spread the knuckle open. This allowed the strut to slide out easily. There is a metal tab that is welded to the strut housing that goes down into this split in the knuckle, so you have to remove the strut partially before inserting the chisel or it will bind and/or damage the metal tab. Probably hard to visualize, but it will make sense once you see it.
The the lower rear strut bolts that are bolted into the aluminum lower arm can very easily be cross threaded, so be careful there. Other than that, it's just basic mechanics.
The only two sticking points worth mentioning (in my opinion) are getting the front struts out of the front knuckles and making sure that the lower rear strut bolts are installed properly.
For the front, I kept the upper strut attached to the strut tower, disconnected the anti-roll bar link (which allowed the lower control arm to drop down without the tension of the anti-roll bar) and used a large deadblow hammer to slowly separate the strut from the knuckle until it was far enough out to allow me to insert a bunt chisel into the split along the backside to help spread the knuckle open. This allowed the strut to slide out easily. There is a metal tab that is welded to the strut housing that goes down into this split in the knuckle, so you have to remove the strut partially before inserting the chisel or it will bind and/or damage the metal tab. Probably hard to visualize, but it will make sense once you see it.
The the lower rear strut bolts that are bolted into the aluminum lower arm can very easily be cross threaded, so be careful there. Other than that, it's just basic mechanics.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Specialty-Prod...ductId=1355964
i custom ordered an 03/2012 build 2012 cms all4, manual, sport suspension and oem 18" wheels with 225/45-18 summer tires
my 91 year old dad liked it so much that he bought a used dealer demo/loaner with 2600 miles, 09/2011 build 2012 cms all4 automatic, standard suspension, 17" oem wheels with 205/55-17 all-season tires 2 weeks after i took delivery of mine
i am in a unique position having access to both cars for more than a test drive, and have driven both, back to back, both on "commuter" type trips and "back roads" blasts
ignoring the transmissions, the suspension/tires make a huge difference, almost like they are 2 different models
on both cars, i found the stock tire pressures too low, i used a tire pyrometer and ended up raising the pressures:
my car sport/18" wheels, 42psi front / 36 psi rear
dad's car standard/17" wheels, 38 psi front / 34 psi rear
both cars ride and handle much better with the higher pressures, there is less harshness, less tram-lining, better turn-in response and much quieter running
in pure commuter mode, driving the chicago highways and city streets, dad's car is the way to go, save the money for the sport suspension and 18" wheels or use it for other options
don't get me wrong, dad's car is still a better handling car than most other cars out there and it is a blast to drive, but when the roads get twisty and the speed increase, my car starts to shine and is more surefooted and confidence inspiring
this is not to say you can't commute in my car, but it is a harsher ride than dad's
the wider tires and summer rubber make my car stop much faster than dad's and the sport suspension makes the car more stable under extreme braking
if i had to order a new cms all4, i would still get both the sport suspension and 18" wheels
if dad had to order a new cms all4, he says he would stay with the stock suspension and stock wheels
other differences
dad has the sunroof, i would pass, it is noisey, rattles, and hot when the sun is overhead
dad has the auto climate control, it is very nice, very unintrusive, but for $500, i would say pass, get the sport suspension instead
dad has the automatic, surprisingly, in sport mode, i like it, both in auto sport and manual sport modes ... time will tell though ... clutch failure vs auto trans failure
we both have the standard leatherett seats, so no comments there
we both have the must have xenon headlights
we both have the standard radio, no connect or nav
any other specific questions, just ask
dad's car, black over white, black wheels (swapped by dealer before delivery)

my car, white over black, white wheels

scott
my 91 year old dad liked it so much that he bought a used dealer demo/loaner with 2600 miles, 09/2011 build 2012 cms all4 automatic, standard suspension, 17" oem wheels with 205/55-17 all-season tires 2 weeks after i took delivery of mine
i am in a unique position having access to both cars for more than a test drive, and have driven both, back to back, both on "commuter" type trips and "back roads" blasts
ignoring the transmissions, the suspension/tires make a huge difference, almost like they are 2 different models
on both cars, i found the stock tire pressures too low, i used a tire pyrometer and ended up raising the pressures:
my car sport/18" wheels, 42psi front / 36 psi rear
dad's car standard/17" wheels, 38 psi front / 34 psi rear
both cars ride and handle much better with the higher pressures, there is less harshness, less tram-lining, better turn-in response and much quieter running
in pure commuter mode, driving the chicago highways and city streets, dad's car is the way to go, save the money for the sport suspension and 18" wheels or use it for other options
don't get me wrong, dad's car is still a better handling car than most other cars out there and it is a blast to drive, but when the roads get twisty and the speed increase, my car starts to shine and is more surefooted and confidence inspiring
this is not to say you can't commute in my car, but it is a harsher ride than dad's
the wider tires and summer rubber make my car stop much faster than dad's and the sport suspension makes the car more stable under extreme braking
if i had to order a new cms all4, i would still get both the sport suspension and 18" wheels
if dad had to order a new cms all4, he says he would stay with the stock suspension and stock wheels
other differences
dad has the sunroof, i would pass, it is noisey, rattles, and hot when the sun is overhead
dad has the auto climate control, it is very nice, very unintrusive, but for $500, i would say pass, get the sport suspension instead
dad has the automatic, surprisingly, in sport mode, i like it, both in auto sport and manual sport modes ... time will tell though ... clutch failure vs auto trans failure
we both have the standard leatherett seats, so no comments there
we both have the must have xenon headlights
we both have the standard radio, no connect or nav
any other specific questions, just ask
dad's car, black over white, black wheels (swapped by dealer before delivery)
my car, white over black, white wheels
scott
the sport suspension features stiffer, 1mm lower springs, 1mm thicker sway bars & also revised damping on the shocks/struts.
I ordered ny CMs4 with this. There were none equipped within my dealer's search. (same for Blk headliner).
From what Ive read, those with lowering springs seem to like the ride better w/ factory sport shocks vs non sport.
I ordered ny CMs4 with this. There were none equipped within my dealer's search. (same for Blk headliner).
From what Ive read, those with lowering springs seem to like the ride better w/ factory sport shocks vs non sport.
the sport suspension features stiffer, 1mm lower springs, 1mm thicker sway bars & also revised damping on the shocks/struts.
I ordered ny CMs4 with this. There were none equipped within my dealer's search. (same for Blk headliner).
From what Ive read, those with lowering springs seem to like the ride better w/ factory sport shocks vs non sport.
I ordered ny CMs4 with this. There were none equipped within my dealer's search. (same for Blk headliner).
From what Ive read, those with lowering springs seem to like the ride better w/ factory sport shocks vs non sport.
scott


