Suspension Probably dumbest question ever....
Probably dumbest question ever....
Okay, after doing another track day today (It's great playing hooky) I've finally decided to break down and pick up a set of coilovers.
I have always been dead set against coilovers for a daily driver. Over the last 2 years, I'm doing more and more track days and it's time.
So my dumbest question is this. Is the use of a spanner wrench the only way to adjust coilovers?
I've heard of guys being able to get out of the car and make a few click adjustments and move on. Is that possible? Other than rebounding adjustments, etc, is height and rideability only done with the spanner wrench?
I've narrowed my choices down to a set of KW 2's or BC coilovers. Will either of these be able to be adjusted to ride fairly normal?
Even though I'm doing more and more track days, this still is my daily driver.
Thanks,
Mark
PS. Yes, I've spent about 2 hours searching....
I have always been dead set against coilovers for a daily driver. Over the last 2 years, I'm doing more and more track days and it's time.
So my dumbest question is this. Is the use of a spanner wrench the only way to adjust coilovers?
I've heard of guys being able to get out of the car and make a few click adjustments and move on. Is that possible? Other than rebounding adjustments, etc, is height and rideability only done with the spanner wrench?
I've narrowed my choices down to a set of KW 2's or BC coilovers. Will either of these be able to be adjusted to ride fairly normal?
Even though I'm doing more and more track days, this still is my daily driver.
Thanks,
Mark
PS. Yes, I've spent about 2 hours searching....
I am no pro -- but have a set of TSW KW-V2s.
There are two separate adjustments.
The hydraulic dampening which is done with an allen wrench on the top of the strut/shock (under the hood on the front).
The ride height is done with the spanner wrench and the spring position is raised/lowered.
If you go with the Texas Speedwerks KWs they can let you choose the spring firmness as they custom fit springs to the V2 KWs
All the KWs V2s let you adjust the hydraulic dampening.
So with the right setup you would not need to give up much ride comfort --- but as is most things in life there are trade-offs.
This thread my help also: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...752-post1.html
There are two separate adjustments.
The hydraulic dampening which is done with an allen wrench on the top of the strut/shock (under the hood on the front).
The ride height is done with the spanner wrench and the spring position is raised/lowered.
If you go with the Texas Speedwerks KWs they can let you choose the spring firmness as they custom fit springs to the V2 KWs
All the KWs V2s let you adjust the hydraulic dampening.
So with the right setup you would not need to give up much ride comfort --- but as is most things in life there are trade-offs.
This thread my help also: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...752-post1.html
Last edited by ron-s mini; Jun 9, 2010 at 08:15 PM. Reason: add
A few questions if you don't mind... (assuming you researched it beforehand)
1) Are V1's really only for the street? I realize you can't have your cake and eat it too but this is still my DD but I need something more than my NM Engr'ing springs.
2) How is the ride on your V2's? The link you sent me, the poster was saying that the ride was too bouncy. Is your ride too bouncy?
3) Last but not least, did you have to get camber plates?
Thanks,
Mark
1) Are V1's really only for the street? I realize you can't have your cake and eat it too but this is still my DD but I need something more than my NM Engr'ing springs.
2) How is the ride on your V2's? The link you sent me, the poster was saying that the ride was too bouncy. Is your ride too bouncy?
3) Last but not least, did you have to get camber plates?
Thanks,
Mark
1.I have the TSW V2s so I cannot speak to the V1s accurately -- the advantage of the TSW V2s for me was the ability to choose the spring rate, mine are relatively stiff.
2.Ride quality is so subjective -- I am good with it and my wife does not complain so it must be "liveable" for a daily driver.
3.Don't have to get camber plates -- but you probably will want to -- as much as you are going to the track -- adding camber makes a huge difference.
another link to a good suspension article by Ryephile a MINI suspension guru
http://www.michiganmini.org/forum/in...?topic=2455.30
2.Ride quality is so subjective -- I am good with it and my wife does not complain so it must be "liveable" for a daily driver.
3.Don't have to get camber plates -- but you probably will want to -- as much as you are going to the track -- adding camber makes a huge difference.
another link to a good suspension article by Ryephile a MINI suspension guru
http://www.michiganmini.org/forum/in...?topic=2455.30
Loved the KW's I had on my RSX. They come with the spanner wrench. Just be careful not to strip the tiny setscrew in the purple plastic ring. If you do, just drill and tap another hole. Actually, I think I would have a second hole ready on each one so you don't have to take it off to fix it.
On the RSX they did not have boots. From the picture on the link above, that seems to still be the case. I think I would try to put some sort of boot on them for street use. If you can't find one to fit inside, an old-school trick is a section of old inner tube over the entire spring. Anything to keep dirt and water off the shaft.
It seems many of the rear track rods come with less that top notch rod ends. (made in China I bet). My question is why buy entire new bars when you can just buy new rod ends from someone like Aurora? The hot-rod shops also sell washers that protect the end. (The rubber boot ends are pretty slick I have to admit).
On the RSX they did not have boots. From the picture on the link above, that seems to still be the case. I think I would try to put some sort of boot on them for street use. If you can't find one to fit inside, an old-school trick is a section of old inner tube over the entire spring. Anything to keep dirt and water off the shaft.
It seems many of the rear track rods come with less that top notch rod ends. (made in China I bet). My question is why buy entire new bars when you can just buy new rod ends from someone like Aurora? The hot-rod shops also sell washers that protect the end. (The rubber boot ends are pretty slick I have to admit).
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Make sure you get some Swift springs to go with them.
Porthos,
I've used Tein products in the past. They always seemed a little "too much" to me.
I can't speak of their coilovers for the mini but to me, it's kind of like H&R springs... just stiffer in general than other brands.
Are their coilovers driveable for the street? (yeah, I know about street/track setups...lol)
The price I was quoted was just that... Swift springs. 7/8's...
One advantage of coilovers is to be able to adjust the ride hide, but an even more important advantage is that you can corner balance the car.
I definitely would get camber plates if you decide to go with coilovers and start tracking the car more often. You can mark track vs street settings on the plates and adjust for daily driving and track.
I definitely would get camber plates if you decide to go with coilovers and start tracking the car more often. You can mark track vs street settings on the plates and adjust for daily driving and track.
When I was investigating for my last car, I found some loved the Tein, some really hated them for quality issues. EDFC is pretty cool, no doubt about that. The other consensus is to not buy any suspension parts made in China. Failures, fitment and rust. Give them a few more years over there and then they will blow everyone away. Remember when "made in Japan"" was bad, then Korea, then Mexico, now China as each country had learned the wisdom of Edwards Deming.
Just checking specs. BC's are quite stiff for street. I don't know where you live, but I could not use springs that stiff in Maryland. Probably a hoot on the track. 8K and 6K. 5K or thereabouts is more street-able. Bouncing all over the place is not a pain, it is dangerous. You are on you own, but consider the other car you will bounce in front of.
Race cars are not suitable for street use. Sorry.
Race cars are not suitable for street use. Sorry.
Wow are those high for a 2600 lb street car. Preference I guess. I prefer to keep at least three tires on the ground when I go around corners. ( who cares about inside rear?) Launching into the air and having to catch the car is just not the quick way around an on-ramp. Addictive on a smooth street, I will grant you. I wonder if that explains why I see road-rash on so many wheels?
To stuff 245's under there, I am guessing you will need to resort to good old fashion bodywork. Fiberglass flairs and cut out the inner lips. Just a guess. Make nice molds and you could make it back by selling flairs.
To stuff 245's under there, I am guessing you will need to resort to good old fashion bodywork. Fiberglass flairs and cut out the inner lips. Just a guess. Make nice molds and you could make it back by selling flairs.
Wow are those high for a 2600 lb street car. Preference I guess. I prefer to keep at least three tires on the ground when I go around corners. ( who cares about inside rear?) Launching into the air and having to catch the car is just not the quick way around an on-ramp. Addictive on a smooth street, I will grant you. I wonder if that explains why I see road-rash on so many wheels?
To stuff 245's under there, I am guessing you will need to resort to good old fashion bodywork. Fiberglass flairs and cut out the inner lips. Just a guess. Make nice molds and you could make it back by selling flairs.
To stuff 245's under there, I am guessing you will need to resort to good old fashion bodywork. Fiberglass flairs and cut out the inner lips. Just a guess. Make nice molds and you could make it back by selling flairs.
springrate is great for the glass smooth roads in florida

Maybe orangecrush will produce a arch extension in the future
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