I am planning on replacing some of my suspension parts since my 2002 has 88k on it. I plan on going with the following:

MINI Cooper Front control arm polyurethane bushings (Madness)
MINI Cooper rear polyurethane suspension bushings (Madness)
Gearbox Mount
Steering Rack Mount

Am i missing anything that is a must do?

 

Engine mount bushings (top and bottom). Not only do they help with shifting and throttle response, but they help turn in - since the engine is now one with the car, instead of a giant pendulum to counteract steering input.

Rear control arm bushings? How long have you had the ones in your sig? I guess polyurethane doesn't wear out that fast though.

 

Which make is a good buy?

I am interested in this as well.

 

I'd suggest doing only the lower engine mount bushing, unless you really like vibration at idle. It does 90% of the job anyway.

 

If you're there do the front sway bar bushings too.

Jeremy

 

There is a a big and small lower engine mount bushing should I do them both?

 

Sounds good I will add them.

 

I say NO to these "hard" bushing mods.
The design of the early Mini's suspension is one that I feel was a bit of a failure. The changes made to the later '06 (?) rear was better, but the front still was in crisis. The second generation Mini's fixed the failed design, but still not perfect.
These hard front front control arm and rear trailing arm bushings just completely screw up sping rates. Honestly, I'd be happier with new factory bushings then these hard things.

I've been putting quite a lot of time into rethinking the early Mini's suspension and have designed a completely new system, FOR TRACK CARS really. Still fine for street but they would require much more maintenance. We tested the first system this weekend with very good success in both street and autocross type driving. Now it will be tested in high speed track in just a couple of days.
Let me know if you have any interest in this.

 

I, for one would be interested in what you are doing with this!

Thanks,

Paul

 

I used Ireland Engineering bushings. Be sure to have some silicone spray lube and a rubber mallet handy...

 

onasled.
Who's design are these. You mention "we" in the design. Have any pictures of what your making?

 

I echo Greg's suggestion...the stock bushings are really the best over-all solution for the street. I lot of time and money went into the development of these.

 

Greg (& anybody else w/ a qualified opinion), I'm interested in further thoughts on why you feel the poly/u bushings "screw up spring rates" - I know you're doing a lot of work on the R50/53, but are you refering to the performance aspect, or is this a ride quality / NVH issue (or both)? And are you working with specific data or is it a "seat of the pants" thing? My MINI is my 365 day 'spirited' driver (in VT), but I also AutoX and trackTT (~8 events a year, may eventually increase). I'm pretty tolerant as to a lessened ride quality if the performance justifies it - but I found out for sure this past w/end that replacement is, uh, urgent (inspected on lift right after we replaced Jason's axle - you know who I mean) - and I've got an AutoX scheduled for Stowe this w/end...

BTW - I'm the guy he spoke to you about who's planning to do the SSCC in NV...

 

I responded to Dave on out local VT forum, but I'll post here too...

My car is part of the "we" onsaled speaks of. There's still some modifications needed to the suspension design onasled has come up with, so he's withholding details on it until it's ironed out.

The problem onasled is talking about with the poly control arm bushings is that they do not allow the control arm to move freely through its range of motion. This means that at times it "sticks" which effectively increases the spring rate. At the track, trying to drive at the limit, having springs rates that change is a bad thing. On the street, it's not that bad... but I do believe onasled and meb when they say that stock replacement is the simplest / best way to go.

The redesigned parts onasled made that I'm testing on my car have as close to zero binding as is possible as the suspension goes through its range of motion. The biggest difference I noticed when driving with the new parts was that there was much less bounce / oscillation in the suspension - everything seemed much more controlled.

 

Thanks, Jason - hope the testing works out better - could see a version of the final product in my future...

 

If I get some time in the net few days, I'll try and put together some real life examples of these different bushings in action, of sorts.
Up to this point I just don't like these harder polly bushings. In fact if I had to make the choice between stock and poly replacements for the racetrack, I would go stock.

This is what Jason is running on his car. I seriously don't see that I would ever sell this for a street car. Just race only. Not sure I'd want the liability.

 

In my opinion, the bind is not terrible since it occurrs at the extremes of travel, and, that the weight of the LCA will more than offset this bind. However, these bushing need to be lubricated fairly often to keep them from binding thru the entire suspension stroke, not a perfect world. Re-lubricating these two to three times a year is probably sufficient but way more than most of us will consider as routine, hence Greg and Jason's points.

In addition, these also add to anti-dive effect and in my book this is not a good attribute. Anti-dive will not allow weight to transfer to a given corner as the car enters a turn and the feeling can be read as understeer or even slightly greasy. Anti-dive acts momentarily like a solid stick in the suspension and therefore will not allow the spring/damper to do its job initially...the car does not take a 'set' as it enters a turn. I find this much more annoying than the binding, but both are present.

I am beginning to re-think the stock bushing for those who drive mostly on the street with a few track days thrown in. This bushing works well, and is much more comfortable than the poly unit. And the fact that it doesn't contribute to more anti-dive is a huge plus. If I had two new stock bushings I would re-install them tomorrow in a heart beat.

EDIT: weight transfer to a given corner above refers to either the left or right front end. Anti-effects affect the driven wheels.

 

Any pics installed on a car?

 

Thanks, Greg - please don't take too much time on my acct. documenting, I'm ordering today - I was wondering about the worth of the offsets but will forgo them for now just to (1) get the car fixed and (2) allow for further research into the whole caster/camber thing as it relates to MINI's...

The control arms on Jason's car look slick; great idea - good luck w/ the R&D (PS: got photos during the axle replacement, will get them to him as soon as I can - not something I'm going to post )...

 

Keep the stock caster or reduce it.

 

Thanks, meb - I appreciate all the info, look forward to installing the OEM's - just hope I don't become one of the horror stories on seized bolts ...

Which raises another question (I've heard it said the only dumb question is the one you don't ask) - does the use of the "BMW tool" eliminate the need to drop the cradle?

 

I personally find it much easier to purchase new brackets with the bushing and just drop the sub-frame. It's not hard, looks impressive and should only take you a few hours. Just be methodical and keep a couple of boxes nearby so you can group bolts/nuts.

 

Agreed!
Now if I could just get a copy of that tech article in MC2 to "mind-prep" while I wait for the parts to arrive ...

 

Remove power steering res. clamp
Place front end on jack stands
Apply e-brake and block rear wheels
Remove front bumper cover and unhook side markers
Remove aluminum beam
Remove: lower Swaybar endlinks, outer tie rods, lower ball joint
Remove Steering shaft bolt and flip upper portion out of the way
Place hyd. jack with double 2x4 beam under sub-frame

Loosen sub-fram bolts in sequence while guiding the power steering res behind the engine as you slowly lower the sub-frame

Lower the sub-frame only enough intitially to unhook the power steering fan and pump connections

Lower the sub-frame all the way

Replace all parts on sub frame

Reinstall and make sure the steering shaft cover did not come off...if so reinstall before reinstalling the subframe

Follow all torque settings.

Aligning the sub-frame can be a PITA but take your time and make sure it is in place BEFORE INSTALLING BOLTS. DO NOT USE THE BOLTS TO PULL THE SUB-FRAME UP, EVER!!!

Did I miss anything? Last time I did this - two months ago - it began to rain as soon as I rolled out the sub-frame and poured thru the entire proceedure. Still had to take my time.

 

Made a dumb video this morning. Vimo should have it uploaded shortly. Will post as soon as it's ready.

Agree with Meb on caster. Add if you want to sit back and cruise the highway, but lessen if you want to go quick on the track.
Think of it like a chopper (motorcycle) compared to GP bike.