Hi Guys

Thanks for all the help recently. Unfortunately, I'm about to give up on this great handling setup because I just can't get enough clearance on the inside of both wheel wells. I've hammered as the instructions state and I don't think I can bang anymore. The springs keep rubbing and popping. Just doesn't seem good. Too bad for me. Back to the stock setup... Just don't know what to do for the track...

 

It will work, just hit it with a dead blow hammer till the sheet metal is out of the way. Little at a time, it will all be over before you know it and you'll be so happy at the track. I know it's scary to bang the sheet metal, but there's really not much if anything you can mess up.

 

We've gotten -2.2 with a pinky finger amount of clearance behind the springs with use of a deadblow hammer... A pinky gap is plenty to keep the spring from binding. How much camber are you shooting for?

 

I just had to keep going. I guess I was a little fearful thats all. When I get an alignment what should I be telling them to do exactly? Installed camber plates, tsw springs, and sway bar. Thanks

 

It depends on what you want as far as the alignment goes:

Street suggestion:
-2.0 degrees camber front
-1.5 degrees camber rear
zero toe front
slight toe in rear (no more than 1/8" total toe in)

For a slightly more aggressive street application, shoot for -2.2 degrees up front with all the same other settings as above.

Make sure you rotate your tires every 3-5K miles...

 

I had the same rubbing issue, when adding camber plates, and I had to hit a little harder with a bigger hammer (non-deadblow) on the driver's (left) side to get enough clearance. I was also able to get -2.2 camber on the fronts. I am using JCW springs.

I have an 2006 MCS GP, and could only adjust the negative rear camber back to -1.7 from about -2 because that was all the adjustment that was available in the stock lower control arm.

My alignment shop measures toe in the units of degrees instead of inches.
For rear total toe of 1/8" total is that equivalent to 0.94 degrees (56.25 minutues) assuming a 24" tire height? Or am I doing the calculations wrong?

Also, my alignment shop measures toe per wheel so an 1/8" total would be about 1/16" at each wheel. Try to get them to get each side as close as possible. Some shops tend to look at total toe and not the individual sides especially on the rear because it is a pain to adjust. You could have toe out on one side and toe in on the other side and average zero toe.

My alignment shop did not want to adjust the rear toe, to my specs, because it would have been a pain to get the to trailing arm bolts on the GP (undernealth the flat bottom panels). The rear toe was "in spec" so they really did not want to disassemble panels to adjust the bolts.