I HAVE KW COİLOVER V3 ..I DONT KNOW WHAT TO DO ABOUT TOE,CAMBER MEASUREMENT..?

 

You want zero toe, or perhaps a 1/16" toe-in to be more stable at high speed, and as much camber as you can get...considering you'll only be able to get about -0.5 degrees out of the R56's slotted strut towers. If you have adjustable camber plates, you'll want to dial in -1.0 to -1.5 degrees based on driving habits and application. More highway would bias towards the -1.0 degree, and more track work would bias towards -1.5 degrees.

What are you running for ride height?

Cheers,
Ryan

 

[quote=Ryephile;2484504]You want zero toe, or perhaps a 1/16" toe-in to be more stable at high speed, and as much camber as you can get...considering you'll only be able to get about -0.5 degrees out of the R56's slotted strut towers. If you have adjustable camber plates, you'll want to dial in -1.0 to -1.5 degrees based on driving habits and application. More highway would bias towards the -1.0 degree, and more track work would bias towards -1.5 degrees.

What are you running for ride height?

ı have no front camber plates and fırst of all,ı have track day next week..what wıll ı do?
you can watch thıs vıdeohttp://www.ktunnel.com/index.php/1010110A/1f14648ccac87291c66bbe220178f6623e841cc08e57fe526c 70876a977a523776549c5f410c945519035
thıs is running track

 

front toe in or toe out=?
front camber=(ı have no camber plates) ?

rear toe in or toe out=?
rear camber=(ı have alta camber kit) ?

 

Even without camber plates, you can still get about a half degree negative camber with the factory plates and slotted towers.

Your alignment should look like this:
Front camber -0.5
Front toe +1/16" [toe in]

Rear camber -1.2
Rear toe +0

 

thank you very much..but ı cant see factory camber plates on my car:Sdo you have any picture?

thanks agaın

 

From the Factory they have about .5 degree negative front camber built in. If you use the slotted towers and push it in you will get about 1.0 degree negative front camber. I think that is perfect for a daily driver that you also use for track/autoX. Grassroots did an Auto X test. With stock camber at .4 they did a before and after and moved the camber to 1.0 negative and gained a half second per lap. They then put adjustable plates and raised the camber to negative 2 but they only shaved another couple hundredths of a second.

 

Thanks for the correction.

 

ı had great result at track day thank you very much.. ı am goıng to buy mıxed camber plates..what wıll you propose to me(wıth front and rear camber plates? ı need your suggestion... thanks again...

 

Good to hear! You don't need camber plates for the rear, your rear control arms have eccentric bolts built-in that allow a good range of camber adjustment. You do need camber plates for the front end though. I have minimal experience with stock-footprint camber plates. I recommend to get a hold of Chad at DT and ask his advice. Be sure to get plates that don't alter the ride height of the car, have solid construction that won't loosen, and is easy to adjust precisely.

Cheers,
Ryan

 

Question: My front camber is now + 1/16 after installing and aligning the car on KW V1 Coilovers. Im told I now need camber plates. If I raise the car some, will that help change the camber to negative? I really just want the car for street use, no track use...so If raising the car will eleviate the camber issue, then thats what I will do. Thanks for any info! (FYI: I searched info on this topic before posting.)

 

Thats odd. Lowering the car should give you some negitive camber. Have you loosened the mounting nuts and pushed the struts to the center on the car?

 

No, but I will try that. The shop I took it to for alignment did not mention that. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

Not true on a MacPherson strut setup. The camber curve is minimal, and is directly related to the lower control arm positioning. If you lower a MINI way too much [we're talking 5 inches plus], you'll gain positive camber. On any reasonable lowering effort [less than 3 inches], the camber will essentially not change. Stock R56 camber is -0.5 degrees, and you can dial in -1.0 [as noted in above posts] by pushing the strut top hats inboard using the strut tower slotted holes.

--->MakoBimmer; if your front camber is indeed +1/16 [degrees?] with KW V1 something is definitely installed wrong...like the strut hats aren't bolted in with all three nuts or your lower control arms are bent.

 

We found the problemo....something like the strut wasnt pushed all the way into the housing (?) or something like that, creating positive camber. Now the car handles and drives on RAILS! Had it aligned and corner weighted. Awesome now.