I installed a set o Koni Yellow adjustables with H Sport springs in my 2006 MCS. The fronts went in fairly easily without any trouble. However, I'm getting a bit of clunking noise from the rear. I've checked, retorqued (bottom bolt @ 103lbs, and the 2 top bolts at 41bs), removed and reinstalled the entire assemblt to sure the springs fit snugly into the spring guide on the top section of the shock spring assembly.

Question on the single shock nut keeping the top hat in place. I've seen people mention 22lbs, I keep on turning and turning and its doesnt reach 22lbs. Keep in mind, my set up is the adjustable so there is no hole for an allen wrench as the OEM shocks have. I simply tighted the top nut to where I could see about 5 thread lines.

Any input or pics or suggestions?

Thanks.

 

If you haven't reached 22 lbs, a) you haven't turned enough, b) something is stripped or c) the threaded shaft you are screwing the nut on is rotating while you are attempting to tighten. I suspect both a) and c).

 

Just to make sure so I get it right the third time. We are talking about the once single nut that attaches to the threaded bolt from the shock. This is the nut that holds the spring cover and top hat in place.

Last night, when I was tightening the the nut (which isnt stripped and the threaded bolt isnt rotating), I was compressing the spring/shock/bushing and top hat assembly a bit. I was seeing over an inch to an inch and a half of the threaded bolt from the shock exposed . . .thats in addition to the nut. I was worried that by tightening it down and trying to get to the 22lb mark, I would lose any suspension travel and the benefits of the shock or springs. Can you or somone confirm how much thread I can expect to see by the time I get to 22lbs?

Pix if available would be awesome.

Again, thanks much.

 

It sure sounds like the top strut nut (on the shock shaft) is not tight. I just replaced my springs, using the stock JCW shocks) and had a knocking noise when going over bumps. I was sure that everything was tight. It took me two tries to get the nut tight before the knocking stopped. I found that one of the threads on the shock shaft was a little messed up and the nut would torque down before the strut mount was all the way down (tight). I had to run the nut up and down the threads (without the spring installed) to clean up the threads.

It also most sounds like something is missing if you have to thread the nut down so far without it getting tight. The stock rear struts have a metal spacer in the rubber top bushing/bearing. I am not familar with the Koni setup.

It also sounds like you might be spinning the whole shock shaft when trying to tighten the nut. Again I am not familar with the Koni setup but there must be a way to hold the shaft, to keep it from spinning, when trying to tighten the nut. I initally tried to tighten my shock nut without holding the shaft with an allen and that is the main reason it did not tighten it all the way (I tried to use an impact wrench but that was dumb).

 

Make certain that you have replaced all of the parts and pieces. It sounds as if you might have left out the inner metal sleeve of the Elastomer bushing on top. If so, you'll be squeezing rubber out the side of something long befor you get the solid seat that is required (and the 22 ft-lbs). The shock rod has a shoulder below the threaded part that seats against the top of the upper spring seat which butts up to the bushing sleave that in turn butts up against the cupped washer (lip up) that the nut tightens against. This all tightens together as a solid mass. Use a 6mm hex key to keep the shaft from rotating when you are tightening the nut. It is highly recommended to replace the nut as it is self-locking, but one drop of blue lok-tite will also do.

You are missing either the bushing sleeve or the upper spring mount if the shaft thread is pulling up more than 1/2 of an inch. The other possibility is that the Konis have the right thread but the shaft itself is too small and is pulling up through the spring seat.

 

Check sway bar end link for tightness? Not sure if you messed with the bar at all, but they can make a clunking noise if not tight.

 

You have to remove the endlinks on the rear bar to get the rear shocks off (at least I had to). It sounds like they are loose to me becuase I'm all to familar with that noise.

To the OP: if you did take the endlinks off, retorque them with LOAD ON THEM. See if the noise goes away then.

 

if you didn't tighten the topnut down all the way that's your issue. I don't know about 22 ft/lbs....there's a point where it stops moving because it's all the way down. You need to compress the rear springs and use a strap wrench on the Koni shaft.