Suspension Springs, struts, coilovers, sway-bars, camber plates, and all other modifications to suspension components for Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Suspension Dinan camber plates, any comments???

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Old Aug 13, 2008 | 07:54 AM
  #1  
davisflyer's Avatar
davisflyer
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From: Knoxville, TN
Dinan camber plates, any comments???

I've recently installed the JCW suspension and was wondering if adding the Dinan camber plates would help any. If anyone has experience with these I would appreciate the input!
 

Last edited by davisflyer; Aug 13, 2008 at 01:52 PM.
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 10:30 PM
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heyduard
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From: nnj
I am of the school that more negative camber than stock in the front can't hurt! So go for it. You will need to drop the struts to add the plates to the top of the strut mounts. Folks have spoken highly of the complete Dinan suspension setup; JCW would be the equivalent sans rear bar and camber brackets. I have installed Ireland's fixed camber plates on my mini with noticable results: improved grip through turns and sweepers. I would expect a more modest improvement with the Dinan brackets; they seem not supply as much negative camber as the IE plates.

Unfortunately we are saddled with macpherson struts, so we must make do with what we can with some additional static negative camber to improve cornering grip.

So feel free to ignore me as I have no experience with the Dinan plates.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 03:10 AM
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Phantom
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From: Barksdale AFB, LA
I have the Dinan Plates, Simple to install and they set your camber to about -1.5ish I think my front left is at -1.4 and my right is at -1.375 so that right about perfect. Worth the $$$
 
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 07:15 AM
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quikmni
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From: Orcutt, CA
I just installed Hotchkis (H-Sport) adjustable plates on my GP with JCW suspension. I did it for four reasons; 1) more front camber, 2) prevent mushrooming, 3) correct large left and right camber difference, and 4) eliminate the stock rubber strut bearing that tends to rip/tear over time (tore by 40,000 miles on my 2003 MCS).

More front negative camber is great. You can really feel the difference.

The Dinan plates have the advantage of being less expensive but only satisfy 1 of the 4 good reasons (more front camber) for using plates. Actually they might also help with the mushrooming problem but not as well as normal adjustable plates. Also, the Hotchkis plates do not raise the ride height. It looks like the Dinan plates might raise the ride height by the thickness of the plate.

If you plan to go with the Dinan plates, I suggest you measure your stock front camber to make sure it is not too out of wack. My stock was about -0.3 left and -1.4 right. Adding non adjustable plates would have made the right side way too negative. Also remember that you will have strut rubbing problems on the left (driver) side that will limit the negative to less than -1.5 without a little pounding on the inner wheel well to make clearance for the springs (there is a rib that needs to be pounded in).
 
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 07:15 AM
  #5  
davisflyer's Avatar
davisflyer
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From: Knoxville, TN
Originally Posted by Phantom
I have the Dinan Plates, Simple to install and they set your camber to about -1.5ish I think my front left is at -1.4 and my right is at -1.375 so that right about perfect. Worth the $$$
Did they raise the front end any? If so, is it noticable. I also have a 19mm rear sway bar. Used with this is (as I see your car is equipped), do you have a lot of oversteer or is it still fairly neutral? Also, as I don't see much track time at all, do you think that it is necessary for driving in the twisties.

Thanks!
 
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Old Feb 28, 2009 | 02:55 PM
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sranderle
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From: Lakeville, MN
In the middle of installing the camber plates. Trying to get the strut assembly back in, but having trouble getting the bottom of the strut back in place.

Any tips? Steps? Ideas?
 
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Old Feb 28, 2009 | 04:10 PM
  #7  
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quikmni
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From: Orcutt, CA
Hopefully you got it by now but here are a couple ideas.
- Push down on the hub/brake assembly to gain a little extra room.
- Turn the hub/brake assembly a little to pivot the hole where the strut fits.
- Make sure you are getting the strut up into the top mount as far as you can. Get the three mounting studs into their holes.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2009 | 06:36 PM
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sranderle
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From: Lakeville, MN
Okay, we solved the install issue and finished everything up. We ended up compressing the strut with a jack and a piece of wood. Worked great!

Only had time for a quick run around the neighborhood, but a very nice upgrade from the FSDs with stock springs. Of course its not hard to improve on a suspension with a blown rear shock AND front strut. Two years in a row for me on blown FSDs, I won't be going back. That's too bad, as they make a very nice first impression.

So I am now sitting on DINAN Stage 3 suspension. Just need an alignment (Monday). The car actually lowered quite a bit. I have winter 16" steel with 195/55R16s, and I can just get my hand between the top of the tire and the wheel well. I sure hope that doesn't present any issue for my 17" summers with 215/45R17s. Even though the back looks lower than the front (two hands), the still looks level.

Now back to happy motoring!!
 
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