Suspension Springs, struts, coilovers, sway-bars, camber plates, and all other modifications to suspension components for Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S (R56), and Cabrio (R57) MINIs.

Suspension Alta swaybar question

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Old Jan 8, 2008 | 09:36 PM
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unsalada's Avatar
unsalada
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Alta swaybar question

Hello well I am currently installing the sway bar and I am kinda stuck I wanted to know where does the abs wires that have to be unplugged where are they locaded? And also do you have to remove both strut/springs where do you hold the mini then with the jacks?
 
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Old Jan 8, 2008 | 09:50 PM
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I didn't touch the abs wires, just leave them, but keep and eye on them. I only removed 1 (one) rear shock and had no problems. Use the jack stands near the rear tires.

Easy to do!
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 08:08 PM
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I am trying to reinstall the sub frame but I cant get the screw holes on the frame to match the holes on the body of the car. What can I do so they match I need like 1 or 2 inches in order to get them to match.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 08:47 PM
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Any one please
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 09:19 PM
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it was a little tricky for me too but in my case I just started both bolts a little bit by hand. Are you tightening one bolt a lot all the way before you get the other one in? If you are, that's probably your problem. Good luck!
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 09:32 PM
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I cant put any screws in because both holes dont match
 
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 06:16 AM
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Take something like a long screwdriver (tire iron), stick it in one of the holes and use it to pry the sub frame over to the holes.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 06:54 AM
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You will need to jack the subframe back into position. Large phillips screw drivers help as guides. I'd suggest you try an get one bolt in on one of the ends first. Next use a pry bar and jack to get the other end into position.

It really helps to have a helper while doing this. I did my R50 sway bar swap so I speak from experience. The R50 can be done with all bolts out except one (which is only loosened to almost out). The jack and pry bar put the other end into position pretty easily. 1 hour 15 minute total swap time for me.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 08:03 AM
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I could not get the thing on for some reason now its pussing the cataback and the heat shield down so I the struts on and the wheels to take it to a mecanic but my question is Wiil it be safe to move the car without the sawbar and the enlinks and sub frame attrached???
 
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 08:16 AM
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Mark Kurzius
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Originally Posted by unsalada
I cant put any screws in because both holes dont match
Do you think its about time,to get this car on a flatbed and make sure this is done correctly by a mechanic and then have it aligned properly to insure your safety.Not to be mean but it seems everything you have done on this car you have had some problems with and that's what good trustworthy mechanics are for,I'm sure someone knows of some in your area,you're not exactly out in the boonies.Some of the guys on this site may be able to do this work themselves,I CERTAINLY can't,and seems neither can you....Be smart,spend the money and be safe and enjoy your car...Lifes to short
 

Last edited by Mark Kurzius; Jan 10, 2008 at 08:19 AM.
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 08:17 AM
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From: Sacramento, Ca
Originally Posted by unsalada
I could not get the thing on for some reason now its pussing the cataback and the heat shield down so I the struts on and the wheels to take it to a mecanic but my question is Wiil it be safe to move the car without the sawbar and the enlinks and sub frame attrached???
I definitely would not drive it without the subframe being attached...that would be scary.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 08:57 AM
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I Followed your advise and I am getting it on a flat bed to a mecanic that speciales in Bmw and Minis while he has the car que is going to install the H&R lowering kit and he is going to dyno the car!
 
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 09:05 AM
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After learning on my car, I helped my local club install 6 rear swaybars in one afternoon and we shot a very rough video how-to. We aren't perfect by any means and I botched several nit picky details (calling it a 16 inch socket instead of a 16mm socket), but it helps to see it all: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=71918

The video is for the R50/53 (older model of MC/MCS), but it might help you see how to lift the subframe back up and get those holes aligned... watch the part where we jack up the hammer...
 
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 09:53 AM
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Mark Kurzius
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Originally Posted by unsalada
I Followed your advise and I am getting it on a flat bed to a mecanic that speciales in Bmw and Minis while he has the car que is going to install the H&R lowering kit and he is going to dyno the car!
Bravo,that's the best thing you've done,after the springs are installed have him recommend someone to align the suspension as well..Take your time and do these things correctly the first time,you are going to be much happier with the results and enjoy the results a whole lot more with a lot less grief...good luck with the car
 
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by agranger
(calling it a 16 inch socket instead of a 16mm socket)

off topic, but this reminds me of a joke a played on a friend asking him to pick up a 9/13" box wrench for me. i was greatly amused.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by unsalada
I could not get the thing on for some reason now its pussing the cataback and the heat shield down so I the struts on and the wheels to take it to a mecanic but my question is Wiil it be safe to move the car without the sawbar and the enlinks and sub frame attrached???
That could be the ride of your life!
 
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 12:27 PM
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Probably a little late here but...

I just did one. While the subframe looks like it's never going to get back to the right spot - it will. Just take your jack and jack it up somewhere near the middle and it will move forward as it moves up and line up right on, or certainly close enough.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 01:30 PM
  #18  
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I've driven my car without one of the swaybar bushings being in place (attached to the end links, but the bar was bouncing around loose) with no major issues (I wouldn't have wanted to be on a track with it like that).

For the purposes of towing the car onto and off of a flatbed, I would think you would be OK.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 02:09 PM
  #19  
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From: PA
Originally Posted by Mark Kurzius
Do you think its about time,to get this car on a flatbed and make sure this is done correctly by a mechanic and then have it aligned properly to insure your safety.Not to be mean but it seems everything you have done on this car you have had some problems with and that's what good trustworthy mechanics are for,I'm sure someone knows of some in your area,you're not exactly out in the boonies.Some of the guys on this site may be able to do this work themselves,I CERTAINLY can't,and seems neither can you....Be smart,spend the money and be safe and enjoy your car...Lifes to short
+1

Many say it's a waste of money, just me being lazy, etc. But when it comes down to it I much prefer having the peace of mind associated with having a professional mechanic do any and all work to my MINI. I have nothing to prove - mechanics aren't my field and I'm quite profiecient in other areas. . Also installation for the mods I've done are relatively cheap, so no harm done.

At the very least I'd recommend getting someone to help you out during an install. Check out your local MINI club. Most owners have no problem helping a fellow MINIac out. Just buy them a beer.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 04:51 PM
  #20  
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Mark Kurzius
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From: Southern Calif
Originally Posted by unsalada
I Followed your advise and I am getting it on a flat bed to a mecanic that speciales in Bmw and Minis while he has the car que is going to install the H&R lowering kit and he is going to dyno the car!
One more thing,you said you had ordered the Alta Chip....If this mechanic turns out to be good,have him install the PNP and then get your car dyno'd...I was at a Mini shop locally and they were working on one of the chips,It sure helps to have someone that understand all the intricacies of the mapping amd the proper connections...These cars and their electronics can be very interesting...
 
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