I ordered an H+R 27mm Front Sway Bar and it didn't come with instructions! Does anybody know where I can find some instructions online, or know step by step how to remove the stock and install the new one?

 

Why? A bigger front sway bar is the fastest way to put your car off the road.
I know some may disagree, but as far as I'm concerned the investment in money and time for a bigger front sway bar is just not something I would recomend unless you have installed heavier spring rates, and that would be for track only. Don't do this on the street.
But, if you really want to go for it then maybe someone here can direct you to a good 'how to'. I think Webb had one?
It's a big job.

 

Yes, I think what you were after was a rear bar........

Edit: Oops, my bad. I see you already did the rear one. I'll quietly butt out now............

 

+1 On this

Bigger isn't always better.

and a stiffer front bar will then need to be matched with a REALLY stiff rear.

I have had many discusions and to show a point at an Auto-x (friends car... bone stock EVERYTHING) UN hooked the front sway.
Honestly it worked quite well ...

 

I've done them both as well - 22mm solid in the back and the 27mm Solid up front...

Did the back myself - got the dealer to do the front -
If you have the Bently manual it walks you through it -
basically you drop the front Sub-frame and remove the bar... simple - but involved - things in the way - *extra* stuff to remove.

Adding the front neutralizes part of the Oversteer induced by the bigger rear bar !

 

This where the fact that all Minis are not the same comes to play.
If you find that you've created oversteer by adding a heavier bar in the rear, then I believe you've added to much bar. That issue should be fixed by reducing the stiffness of that rear bar rather then adding stiffness to the front.
The problem here is that most are using sway bars rather then play with spring rates. The sway bar is an easy fix for most vendors to sell, rather then get into offering several spring rate options. The bar should be the final "tweak" rather then the first attempt at a "fix".


Well, .... sorry, I have gotten off topic.
Wondering what a dealer charges to install a front bar? I bet in is not cheep.

 

Well what I wanted to really do was just give the car better handling characteristics, I thought that this would be the next step...guess i'm wrong haha, so you dont think I should be doing this setup, if not then what do you think i should do? Springs or coilovers perhaps...

 

Exactly. If everything's set up properly, you don't need swaybars at all.

 

Back to drsilvermini's OP, here's a link...

http://store.webbmotorsports.com/for...wtopic.php?t=4

Ive done this twice, and the hardest part is unbolting the steering knuckle....

 

Here is a how-to https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=94861 .

I enjoyed the front sway bar, but there was contact between the bar and the top of lower control arm bushing at full strut extension.


Before reinstalling the front subframe, be sure to rotate the bar to see if it contacts on the down swing. H&R has been aware of the issue for a couple of years so a redesign may have been implemented.

 

The 27mm H-Sport front bar (softest setting) worked for me, but I'm far from stock and was looking for autocross oriented improvements. I already had the 25mm H-Sport tubular rear. I'd also installed 2.5" linear rate springs in front on the PSS9s. I was looking for a way to soften the damper settings a bit for better grip in sweepers without giving up transient response in chicanes and slaloms. For my driving style, my car, and the typical course styles and surfaces that I run, this worked for me.

As mentioned previously, there is no single answer for all purposes and bigger/stiffer is not always better.

Scott
90SM