At least one end of one endlink must be removed during the corner balancing process. Then, when changes to ride height have been made, this endlink can be adjusted to to new ride height. This will elminiate any preload or binding.

"upfront" - hiem joint type endlinks don't have enough articulation for the mini's front end. A ball joint type has more than twice the articulation of a hirm joint...I think a hiem joint has about 23 degrees of articulation and the Powergrid has 55 degress - I'm close.

I would still use these on the rear as well. When your car is on a lift, have someone turn the steering wheel and if possible, move the suspension thru its motion (sans spring) to get an idea for the amount of movement here. You'll appreciate an endlink with more freedome of movement.

If an endlink bonds during a track event, that end of the car will tend to skipp thru portions of the turn...ask how I know this My response the first time this happened to me was "now this is interesting"...

 

I just got some put on this weekend. I don't mind the ride at all. I think most people have problems cause they try to slam it. I'm tuckin' tire, and I don't bottom out. bought them off a guy on here, i think they had about 10 thousand miles on them. I think they do fine, just don't slam your car. I should have some pics up sometime. I don't know if i'll have them here, but on MU i will.

 

One of the best attributes found with the Megan kit is that we can lower the beyond reason and still retain all of the travel this kit has. These did have bumpstops that were too large for the amount of travel, and, springs that were incorrectly sized for the rate, given the travel. so the two problems I encountered were spring bind and riding the bumpstops. Niether of these is acceptable on a track...but may not be detectable at street speeds.

So how and where we drive affects our response to how a kit works too.

 

Won't Megan correct this for you. I thought that all of their bugs were gone? I believe that they changed the spring rates and updated the bump stops.

 

I am pretty sure that they send you the updates. I am looking into either these or Cross's, but I am not sure yet.

 

Yes, all of these problems were corrected and I worked closely with on these two in particular.

 

That's great to hear. I will most likely pick these up and save some money.

 

Bumpstops must be shorter and if you are using the heavier rate springs, ~469# front, these must be longer. The problem here was that the spring remained the same length for a heavier spring rate, which will not work; a heavier spring has thicker coils and therefore there is less space between the coils for a given length. Block height determines the height of a spring when all of the coils are touching one another. the measurment used to

 

huh, I wonder why they made them like that. It should not cost too much to lengthen the springs and they would still work on the shock bodies, wouldn't they?

 

Yes. Most manufacturers produce springs in various rates and sizes so they work for as many applications as possible. It was simply a bad selection.

 

I know this isnt the place to post this, but if you guys are looking for replacement springs, I work for a company named swift. They are possibly the best springs on the market, outdoing companies like eibach, H&R, and Tein (In all aspects of springs, springrate consistency, weight, thickness of coils.) Anyways if you guys want more information about them, pm me.

or check out www.swiftsprings.com

 

I'll agree that Swift springs are the bomb. I put a set of 2.5" ID Swift springs on my BC coilovers and they were transformed from C+ to A- performance and competence. Two huge thumbs up!

 

Wow Im totally surprised that someone actually knows this brand, two thumbs up to you,

 

Hey can we order a front set and not the rears? I am thinking about getting the megans and all I need to have them at the same rates of the Cross's are the front springs, the rear are close enough to the Cross's. Thanks.

 

Question: A mini vendor I was speaking with about coilovers criticized these coilovers as being difficult to change camber on. He said it is difficult to adjust between a track and street setting because of the design of the camber plates. Was he feeding me a line or is this a valid point. I have the Megan exhaust and love it, and am seriously looking at the coilovers and rear control arms.

 

I have no problem changing them......but to be honest.....it doesnt make much sense to change ANY coilover between street and track mode. When you change the camber plate....it throws the toe all out of wack so you would have to keep getting the toe aligned after every time you changed the camber. So it's not plausible to think that this is something where you drive to the track with street camber....pop the hood.....change to track camber.....and then race. It's more likely that you get your camber set and then leave it there for both street and track.

 

Absolutely true! Adding more neg camber adds more toe in...reducing neg camber adds more toe out. 2 deg neg camber with a hair toe in is a great place to be for both track and road. Tires will begin to wear along the inside edge when camber passes the 2 deg neg mark. Lots of toe out will wear tires very quickly because the tires are literally dragged along the road. Braking distance will become shorter as well and some high speed stability will be lost. so unless you have a race prepped car that is set up for individual tracks, 2 deg neg and a hair toe in up front is about a perfect compromise - or at least a great stepping off point between either more conservative or more aggressive..

Camber is, however, very easy to adjust; jack one wheel up, or both, loosen the plate screws ever so slightly and change camber by moving the entire wheel or use a small pry bar to fit between the perch and pillow ball. Very easy!

 

do these coilovers actually let you have the oem ride height?

 

...well, that's a tricky question. They will allow you to retain stock ride hieght, but more importantly, stock travel if you wish to lower your car. Same for the CROSS kit sold by DMH - Don.