Suspension Megan Racing?
2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
Tein SS and Basic are fully designed and produced in Korea!!! Japanese labour is very expensive, and the only way for Tein to competite in the entry coilover market is to outsource the production to a lower labour cost country.
Did you know that Tein in Japan is merely assembling the so-called Japanese coilovers from non-Japan parts? Most of the components are coming from Taiwan ... where components are much cheaper than in Japan!
Megan are made in Taiwan as well, by the same factory as the BC ...
Megan is also a contract manufacturer for a lot of Japanese aftermarket companies ... like HKS, Apexi, ...
However, Megan/ BC is not doing a lot of application development, since they are merely a manufacturer...
IMO ... the Mini is a very difficult application, due to the very short travel in the front. The Megans shocks have an even shorter travel, and this can cause a problem when the roads are bad .
BC does not make HKS by the way.
I understand what you are saying but you have to understand that Tein used to make really good coilovers and in japan they still do. In fact some of their line is still made in japan. the src. When tein discontinued the ra, re, he, and some of their other line most people already knew what was going down. In japan that line is still available. The difference is people in japan can tell a difference because no one in japan uses lowering springs. They all use coilovers just to lower their car. In america on the other hand, most people cannot tell a good coilover from a bad one. Many cannot tell whether the rebound and the bound are too stiff or soft depending on the spring rate.
What Im trying explain though is that tein coilovers can at least be revalved to match spring rates but Megan cant. The shocks on tein despite their huge application list still makes coilovers specific to cars.
I am not being biased. I stated in my last post that I am not a big fan of tein either.
I understand what you are saying but you have to understand that Tein used to make really good coilovers and in japan they still do. In fact some of their line is still made in japan. the src. When tein discontinued the ra, re, he, and some of their other line most people already knew what was going down. In japan that line is still available. The difference is people in japan can tell a difference because no one in japan uses lowering springs. They all use coilovers just to lower their car. In america on the other hand, most people cannot tell a good coilover from a bad one. Many cannot tell whether the rebound and the bound are too stiff or soft depending on the spring rate.
What Im trying explain though is that tein coilovers can at least be revalved to match spring rates but Megan cant. The shocks on tein despite their huge application list still makes coilovers specific to cars.
I am not being biased. I stated in my last post that I am not a big fan of tein either.
User Title's are Silly
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,022
Likes: 0
From: Arvada, Colorado
guys, once again, enough of this hijack...let's stick to the question at hand for the original poster and take your tangent comments to PM's please.
I think the points and opinions are very clear, no need to continue to clutter things up and keep saying the same thing. Thanks.
I think the points and opinions are very clear, no need to continue to clutter things up and keep saying the same thing. Thanks.
Ok it was my mistake to make such a stupid comment saying that all 240 and honda owners cheap out. But it is hard to make money on high quality product for these applications.
Second, also I understand that many of you guys cannot afford top of the line suspension for these cars, and maybe some of you arent getting these suspension for aggressive driving.
but if that is the case lowering springs and shocks shoudl do wonders and will save a ton. All Im trying to say is Megan coilovers used to be about 600 dollars when they first came out. Now they are charging up to 1200 for the same thing, definately not worth it imo.
But I want you guys to know that this is all just my opinion and if someone is looking for coilovers for their cars and is comparing between megan and tein. I would go with the tein. I still do not know what suspension Im going to be running on the car. My mini is stillbone stock
Second, also I understand that many of you guys cannot afford top of the line suspension for these cars, and maybe some of you arent getting these suspension for aggressive driving.
but if that is the case lowering springs and shocks shoudl do wonders and will save a ton. All Im trying to say is Megan coilovers used to be about 600 dollars when they first came out. Now they are charging up to 1200 for the same thing, definately not worth it imo.
But I want you guys to know that this is all just my opinion and if someone is looking for coilovers for their cars and is comparing between megan and tein. I would go with the tein. I still do not know what suspension Im going to be running on the car. My mini is stillbone stock
User Title's are Silly
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,022
Likes: 0
From: Arvada, Colorado
I understand that many of you guys cannot afford top of the line suspension for these cars, and maybe some of you arent getting these suspension for aggressive driving.
but if that is the case lowering springs and shocks shoudl do wonders and will save a ton. All Im trying to say is Megan coilovers used to be about 600 dollars when they first came out. Now they are charging up to 1200 for the same thing, definately not worth it imo.
But I want you guys to know that this is all just my opinion and if someone is looking for coilovers for their cars and is comparing between megan and tein. I would go with the tein. I still do not know what suspension Im going to be running on the car. My mini is stillbone stock
but if that is the case lowering springs and shocks shoudl do wonders and will save a ton. All Im trying to say is Megan coilovers used to be about 600 dollars when they first came out. Now they are charging up to 1200 for the same thing, definately not worth it imo.
But I want you guys to know that this is all just my opinion and if someone is looking for coilovers for their cars and is comparing between megan and tein. I would go with the tein. I still do not know what suspension Im going to be running on the car. My mini is stillbone stock
Points have been made, and we appreciate all the collective knowledge, but let's let the dead horse get some rest
Megan had bumpstop and damper travel related issues and both were fixed. Their camber plates and pillow ball mounts are basically bullet proof. The design is very clean and allows ride height to be set without affecting travel...an important design detail missing on most other adjustable coilover kits. I would use Megan again if budget were a concern...and it usually is for folks putting their kids thru college.
Revalving a damper for a given spring rate is indeed important if the spring rate is too heavy or too light for the damper. But there is always an acceptable range of rates that work, especially if the dampers are themselves adjustable and that point appears to have been missed here. The rebound adjustment is a ratio of bound and I beleive it is a 3:1 ratio for Megan. So the spring rate range that can be used with these dampers is much wider than a damper that has no adjustment. Revalving is not necessary.
A product may be manufactured in China, but designed here or in Germany. So the made in China thingy is a knee jerk repsonse. And I own a 99Si as well...the first setup included custom linear rate Eibachs and shortened custom valved, double adjustable Koni dampers. Very expensive, very effective. Not every Honda owner cheaps out.
As an aside, if this Si didn't have a steering gear ratio also found in a Mack truck, it might be a wee bit more fun to drive. Incredible cornering power!
Revalving a damper for a given spring rate is indeed important if the spring rate is too heavy or too light for the damper. But there is always an acceptable range of rates that work, especially if the dampers are themselves adjustable and that point appears to have been missed here. The rebound adjustment is a ratio of bound and I beleive it is a 3:1 ratio for Megan. So the spring rate range that can be used with these dampers is much wider than a damper that has no adjustment. Revalving is not necessary.
A product may be manufactured in China, but designed here or in Germany. So the made in China thingy is a knee jerk repsonse. And I own a 99Si as well...the first setup included custom linear rate Eibachs and shortened custom valved, double adjustable Koni dampers. Very expensive, very effective. Not every Honda owner cheaps out.
As an aside, if this Si didn't have a steering gear ratio also found in a Mack truck, it might be a wee bit more fun to drive. Incredible cornering power!
6th Gear
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,301
Likes: 1
midMOmini,
Megan is a great value, hands down. They have fixed the two problems I encountered with their coilovers while tracking my car and commuting. I drove nearly 55K miles on these thru a summer and a winter. I Used these at Lime rock and at Watkins Glen. I worked with Steve to help identify the two problem areas.
As I wrote above, these do not need to be re-valved for different springs rates; the Megan kit inlcudes adjustable dampers with a ratio of 3:1 rebound to bound. So the range of springs rates that can be used successfully is very wide. I personally like 469# up front and 335# in the rear, but there were a number of other adjustments made to work with this balance.
Replacement Damper cylinders cost $75.00 each - dirt cheap! One of my rear dampers required replacing, so I bought four new cylinders for $300.00 after 55K miles of torture. I sold the entire kit before going back to stock, but I would definately consider these again.
If my car were a track only car, I might spend $2,000 - $3,000 on a track dedicated kit. But again, Megan is a super value even when you consider the cost of new cylinders. Sometimes a good value allows you to spend more time on a track...or more on dinner for two. Your choice.
Megan is a great value, hands down. They have fixed the two problems I encountered with their coilovers while tracking my car and commuting. I drove nearly 55K miles on these thru a summer and a winter. I Used these at Lime rock and at Watkins Glen. I worked with Steve to help identify the two problem areas.
As I wrote above, these do not need to be re-valved for different springs rates; the Megan kit inlcudes adjustable dampers with a ratio of 3:1 rebound to bound. So the range of springs rates that can be used successfully is very wide. I personally like 469# up front and 335# in the rear, but there were a number of other adjustments made to work with this balance.
Replacement Damper cylinders cost $75.00 each - dirt cheap! One of my rear dampers required replacing, so I bought four new cylinders for $300.00 after 55K miles of torture. I sold the entire kit before going back to stock, but I would definately consider these again.
If my car were a track only car, I might spend $2,000 - $3,000 on a track dedicated kit. But again, Megan is a super value even when you consider the cost of new cylinders. Sometimes a good value allows you to spend more time on a track...or more on dinner for two. Your choice.
Last edited by meb; Sep 13, 2007 at 04:37 AM.
Just for the record, Megan coilovers are made in Taiwan. Here is a link the the manufacturer's website: http://www.bcec.com.tw/products/mini.html
6th Gear
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,301
Likes: 1
...okay, off subject for another brief moment...I have a 1/18 scale model collection consisting of about 120 cars. 90% of these come from www.exoto.com and all are made in China - stunning detail!!! Check it out.
midMOmini,
Megan is a great value, hands down. They have fixed the two problems I encountered with their coilovers while tracking my car and commuting. I drove nearly 55K miles on these thru a summer and a winter. I Used these at Lime rock and at Watkins Glen. I worked with Steve to help identify the two problem areas.
As I wrote above, these do not need to be re-valved for different springs rates; the Megan kit inlcudes adjustable dampers with a ratio of 3:1 rebound to bound. So the range of springs rates that can be used successfully is very wide. I personally like 469# up front and 335# in the rear, but there were a number of other adjustments made to work with this balance.
Replacement Damper cylinders cost $75.00 each - dirt cheap! One of my rear dampers required replacing, so I bought four new cylinders for $300.00 after 55K miles of torture. I sold the entire kit before going back to stock, but I would definately consider these again.
If my car were a track only car, I might spend $2,000 - $3,000 on a track dedicated kit. But again, Megan is a super value even when you consider the cost of new cylinders. Sometimes a good value allows you to spend more time on a track...or more on dinner for two. Your choice.
Megan is a great value, hands down. They have fixed the two problems I encountered with their coilovers while tracking my car and commuting. I drove nearly 55K miles on these thru a summer and a winter. I Used these at Lime rock and at Watkins Glen. I worked with Steve to help identify the two problem areas.
As I wrote above, these do not need to be re-valved for different springs rates; the Megan kit inlcudes adjustable dampers with a ratio of 3:1 rebound to bound. So the range of springs rates that can be used successfully is very wide. I personally like 469# up front and 335# in the rear, but there were a number of other adjustments made to work with this balance.
Replacement Damper cylinders cost $75.00 each - dirt cheap! One of my rear dampers required replacing, so I bought four new cylinders for $300.00 after 55K miles of torture. I sold the entire kit before going back to stock, but I would definately consider these again.
If my car were a track only car, I might spend $2,000 - $3,000 on a track dedicated kit. But again, Megan is a super value even when you consider the cost of new cylinders. Sometimes a good value allows you to spend more time on a track...or more on dinner for two. Your choice.
6th Gear
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,301
Likes: 1
thank you, this is the most informed post i have gotten yet. like i said, i plan on hitting the track every now and then and will always be a back roads cruiser when i can get time to do it. do you really think the springs that come in the kit will cut it for me? i drive like a g-ma most of the times in town to and from work or just going somewhere but sometime i get a wild hair in my *** and hammer down lol. when i hit backroads i am hammer down the entire way so thats what my driving is like.
PM me and I'll give you a few choices that will allow these spring rates to work well. Or, I can contribute here...it's your thread.
2nd Gear
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Orange County, CA
I'm researching coilovers for my MINI now. Thanks!
The rates I described are fine if you perform a couple of other mods...and actually the front rates are really good considering that 62% of the mass is up front. There is no perfect formula and these rates will not really work on an autoX curcuit. They are great on most road courses and on the street.
PM me and I'll give you a few choices that will allow these spring rates to work well. Or, I can contribute here...it's your thread.
PM me and I'll give you a few choices that will allow these spring rates to work well. Or, I can contribute here...it's your thread.
6th Gear
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,301
Likes: 1
This is quick dirty...
I'll describe my best setup and leave the final selections to you...but beware that this was the final setup after about 45K miles of driving. So if you change one element to a large degree, the setup may not work.
This was my track and daily grind setup good for about 60K miles a year.
Megan - 469# springs front 335# springs rear. Damper settings changed base upon the venue. 11-12 from full hard is not a bad place to begin front and rear. You can play with the rear a little - soften from 11-12 a couple of notches.
Powerflex front control arm bushing
Powerflex steering rack bushing
NOTE: Powerfelx control arm bushings must be installed properly!!! These were in great condition after 55K miles - I pulled them out to take a look.
Four rear IE control arms with hiem joints
M7 Strut tower anti mushrooming thingys - these actually work
Webb rear bar set 5 marks from the small end
Power Grid swaybar endlinks - very important up front!!!
Total wheel offsets; 23mm up front and 33mm in the rear. I used a 15mm spacer up front on 38mm offset BBS RGRs and a 5mm spacer on the rear wheels
Camber up front was 2.25 deg neg and 1.5 deg neg in the rear
Toe was set at the aggressive range of stock up front and stock in the rear
The alignment specs are a good compromise for both street and track. If you can find a way to add a couple more degrees of caster, go for it. This will help to dial back in a little more feel stright ahead that is eroded by neg camber.
Ride height is a biggy. I don't want to go too far here since some of the setup was provided by Don Holingshead. I used one ride height setup and Don used another and they both worked. 1"-1.5" drop is okay.
There is a lot of physics behind these choices. My final setup suited my driving style and my appetitie for tires and comfort. Throw in a BBK kit with SS lines and semi aggressive pads and have fun! I drove this setup twice with my RA1s on my way back from Lime Rock - all smiles.
Getting to a happy place took a lot of work and a fair amount of disappointment. I'm looking into a track only car...
I'll describe my best setup and leave the final selections to you...but beware that this was the final setup after about 45K miles of driving. So if you change one element to a large degree, the setup may not work.
This was my track and daily grind setup good for about 60K miles a year.
Megan - 469# springs front 335# springs rear. Damper settings changed base upon the venue. 11-12 from full hard is not a bad place to begin front and rear. You can play with the rear a little - soften from 11-12 a couple of notches.
Powerflex front control arm bushing
Powerflex steering rack bushing
NOTE: Powerfelx control arm bushings must be installed properly!!! These were in great condition after 55K miles - I pulled them out to take a look.
Four rear IE control arms with hiem joints
M7 Strut tower anti mushrooming thingys - these actually work
Webb rear bar set 5 marks from the small end
Power Grid swaybar endlinks - very important up front!!!
Total wheel offsets; 23mm up front and 33mm in the rear. I used a 15mm spacer up front on 38mm offset BBS RGRs and a 5mm spacer on the rear wheels
Camber up front was 2.25 deg neg and 1.5 deg neg in the rear
Toe was set at the aggressive range of stock up front and stock in the rear
The alignment specs are a good compromise for both street and track. If you can find a way to add a couple more degrees of caster, go for it. This will help to dial back in a little more feel stright ahead that is eroded by neg camber.
Ride height is a biggy. I don't want to go too far here since some of the setup was provided by Don Holingshead. I used one ride height setup and Don used another and they both worked. 1"-1.5" drop is okay.
There is a lot of physics behind these choices. My final setup suited my driving style and my appetitie for tires and comfort. Throw in a BBK kit with SS lines and semi aggressive pads and have fun! I drove this setup twice with my RA1s on my way back from Lime Rock - all smiles.
Getting to a happy place took a lot of work and a fair amount of disappointment. I'm looking into a track only car...
Last edited by meb; Sep 17, 2007 at 05:50 AM.
Peace Keeper
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,747
Likes: 1
From: Defiance, Ohio
Hey guys I found these today while running a search for megans. They look similar, but I do not know much about this company.
They are D2Motorspot's coilovers.
http://www.raceinspired.com/ps-8706-...r-2002-up.aspx
They are D2Motorspot's coilovers.
http://www.raceinspired.com/ps-8706-...r-2002-up.aspx
2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
Hey guys I found these today while running a search for megans. They look similar, but I do not know much about this company.
They are D2Motorspot's coilovers.
http://www.raceinspired.com/ps-8706-...r-2002-up.aspx
They are D2Motorspot's coilovers.
http://www.raceinspired.com/ps-8706-...r-2002-up.aspx
D2 is made by D2, who also makes the Ksport coilovers.
They are not made in the same factory as the Megans, which are made by BC.
Btw ... the pic in your link is for the Acura RSX/ Honda Civic ...
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,337
Likes: 4
From: oh10
Could you go a little further into the details on this......why emphasis put on the front? I assume you are using them to corner balance? Are there other benefits that you saw?
First off, D2 is definately a no go. It is oil filled like most stock suspension systems. Most performance coilovers are gas charged. That is why they are so cheap. I had them on my EF.
Anyways Meb, what toe setup are you running on your mini?? (thanks for the detailed info)
And also does anyone know if there are any company that makes roll center adjusters for the mini's. And does anyone think they are needed for the Mini's?
Anyways Meb, what toe setup are you running on your mini?? (thanks for the detailed info)
And also does anyone know if there are any company that makes roll center adjusters for the mini's. And does anyone think they are needed for the Mini's?
The endlinks are not used to corner balance. When using a coilover setup to corner balance one would raise or lower the lower spring perch in small increments until the desired balance is achieved. These adjustments are usually so small that there is no visual difference in ride height from side to side.
With the adjustable end links you can dial out the swaybar preload. A preloaded swaybar does influence the corner weight and are generally set up in one of two ways. One can either neutralize the sway bar(s) at curb weight or with the driver. When corner balancing the bottom of the end link is left disconnected. Once balanced the endlinks are completely installed and then adjusted to remove the preload. For track use or for a Mini that usually only has a driver only adjusting the corner weight and endlinks is best preformed with the driver or drivers weight simulation in the drivers seat. Ideally the alignment was also preformed with the driver or drivers weight simulation in the drivers seat as well.
Steps in order:
1. Alignment
2. Corner Balance
3. Adjust End Links
4. Drive the wheels of the thing!!!
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,337
Likes: 4
From: oh10
Ok....i didnt mean corner balancing WITH the end links....just adjusting them as part of corner balancing. It seems that most people that have their car corner balanced then have the end links adjusted.