You guys are all caught up in a static world, the real world is dynamic. It's weird too because you learn statics in high school physics but can't graduate from engineering school without taking dynamics.

Experiment #1: Take a straw, stand it on it's end on a table now take one finger and push straight down... completely axial loading, just like your heim's provide. Now, push really hard... what happens?

Experiment #2: take two straws, cut one in half and tape it up and repeat previous test with both straws, which one can you push harder on?

 

Ok, this is why I never post. Agree to disagree. Believe what you want, but neither example you gave has anything to do with dynamics. Personally though, onasled is right, the spc's are more unsprung weight, i would/will run the ie's or make my own.

 

Fair enough.

 

The SPC arms are machined from billet aluminum; they are oversize but not overweight.

 

I just purchased a set of upper & lower adj rear control arms (Ultrik) from Mini Mania and I was wondering what your supposed to do with the sensor that's attached to upper arm on the drivers side?

I'm assuming this is part of the stability control......?

 

I think about any aftermarket control arm would be better than the stock ones. I guess it comes down to money and personal opinion. I would problably pick.......oh I'm broke, so whatever I can get for free. But thanks for the pics and opinions of different ones.

 

It's actually the Xenon level sensor. Just take off the second link and the bracket and push the first link all the way down.

 

Well, this has nothing to do with it, since we're not dealing with an all out race car, we're dealing with a production car with very restricted access to the inboard attach points.

Once again, incorrect. See the post above for the tradeoff.

Once again, incorrect. The only extra weight on the H-sport arms due to the center split is the turnbuckle. This is aluminum, a fraction of a pound in weight, not the "several pounds" you're fond of quoting. In fact, the inertia of that arm is reduced by moving the outboard steel threaded mass halfway toward the fixed inboard end.

 

look familiar.....same?

 

Could be, but shinier .. . Basically all off the shelf parts.

 

niCE

 

I want to make those. How did you do it?

 

I will have to agree having this similar design on my MINI since 2003 with no failure in any way.




Mini X Rear Control Arms are made from SWAGED 6061-T6 AIRCRAFT ALUMINUM. Our Rod ends are SELF-LUBRICATING and SELF SEALING with NYLAFIBER NATRIX RACE and are rated at 16,565 radial load. We exceed all others currently on the market. That's extra safety and reliability built in every piece. Also a stock bar weighs in at over 3lbs. The Mini x Rear Control Arm is only 1lb. 15oz. That is one of the lightest on the market. Installation can be done with common garage tools in less then a couple of hours. However we do recommend a professional shop install them. They come packaged in brushed aluminum and for a little extra you can have them *powder coat red, black, gray, silver or polished. Also because our rod ends are adjustable, you can change your rear camber for that weekend race or correct for lowered springs. That makes Mini X. Rear Control Arms the best out there.[/FONT]


Picture in 2003




Picture in 2007

 

So where does one find the Mini X Rear Control Arms ?

Cheers,
Roberto

 

As I say, they are all off the shelf parts. The swagged bars are Woodwards.
The Hiems are aluminum which make them even lighter.
So, just buy the parts and install, but for the bushing that adapts the Mini bolts to the hiem. These will need to be made up on a lathe.

There is no secret here on these arms. They can be had in most any race shop. Oval track / nascar shops have some great parts. I'm lucky enough to have one of these types of shops not far from me.

 

Wow, not bad, if your saying you've had these for Four years and not replaced the Hiems?

 

So PTG
Where did you get your arms.

 

Rod ends are SELF-LUBRICATING and SELF SEALING with NYLAFIBER NATRIX RACE and are rated at 16,565 radial load.

These are beyond over kill for a MINI !!!!




http://www.mini-madness.com/

 

Hey Bob! There is a thread somewhere on here where they fabbed up a little "L" bracket, that they clamped to the control arm, for the level sensor to attach. I'll try and find it.

 

Cool, thanks! I PM'd you about something else...

 

\/

 

So is there a history of any of the aftermarket arms failing by snapping in the middle? I'm looking to get lower arms to adjust camber... looking at the megan's for price reasons. But obviously if people are breaking the megan's I'll look to spend more.

So far I've only seen evidence that the stock one's break, but I may have missed something.

Mainly I want to adjust camber and have them be quiet.

 

Another option / route to go for the 2007 mini's is the old fashion way ....

http://www.eurosportdesign.com/pc-14...-bushings.aspx


Since the 2007+ mini have a new stronger rear control arm and not that pressed together junk, the above option will work just find and can be done for the upper and lower arms

 

Now that looks like it simply backed out the endlink.

Or did the endlink break at the threads like the above pic?

 

I have a hard time visualizing how that could happen. It would have taken quite a load to the outside top of the wheel or the inside bottom to do this.

Weird......