Just curious as to the expected life of hiem joints on adj control arms? Alta upper and lowers with 30k on them and they all need replacing. (actually needed it about 10k ago) Might have gone a different route if I had known how short the life of these are.

Anyone purchased just the joints or do I have to go the all new route $$$?

Tim

 

Tim, rod ends can be purchased separately and are not too expensive - 7 to 12 a pop, I believe. Unless you can make sure you get the same length, an alignment will be needed though...

What makes you think that your Heim's are shot?

 

When I had the car on the rack yesterday having new tires put on we discovered that there was play in all of them (1/32 - 1/16 in each). I had noticed a bumping rattle at low speeds in parking lots a while back and suspected this was the culprit. Hold the tire top and bottom and rock it and the noise is there as well as the play, very visable too. All 8 have some degree of play in them.

Putting off the alignment I had scheduled until I get these changed next week, I can get them really close but new G-Sports cost a lot more than the alignment! LOL

Since they are less than a year old, I'll call JSC Speed who I bought them from on Monday and see what they have to say, If not, I wonder if anyone has the specs available to order them without pulling one off?

Tim

 

I'm not familiar with the ones you have but some rubber boots are available for use on heim joints that see street use. It's not a cure-all but it should help keep the grit out that destroyed yours and keep the lube in. Check with your supplier for the replacement heim joints. It shoud add about $5/joint but if it increases life of the joint it may be a good idea.

 

Good idea, thx.

 

Hiems are for race cars so don't be surprised if they have a very short life span on the street, especially in snow country. I am surprised though that they are as loose as you say. If in fact they are your lucky you haven't had a catastrophic failure.
Know what your buying guys. Most of the high performance parts for Minis are race oriented and need regular checks for wear.

 

You mean my 3500mi a month daily driver is not a race car? Jeeez, I bought the wrong car!
If I knew what I was buying how would I be able to keep writing chapters in my book? "Money I have wasted chasing the dream" That sounds like a future thread for sure! That chase has slowed way down over the last few month's with money and time now being invested in taking stuff off

I am working with Jeff at Alta right now on the situation with the heim joint wear issue and will update as it progresses. Sent photos, etc....

Tim

 

Being a former racer and current crew for a DSR team, I am familiar with heim joints on race cars. They are usually replaced once each season (year) as a safety precaution. Most of them are just fine, but replaced anyway.

In my years, I have not seen many failures, but it does happen. If you can live with the looseness, they are probably good for a while longer, if not, replace them with high quality rod ends ($20-30 each) and forget about them for a few years. The higher quality rod ends will last longer than the cheap ones you get at the hardware store.

I recently replaced the rod ends on my rear sway bar links and the spherical bearings in my adjustable camber plates. Yea, those 6 parts cost me $135, but my suspension is tight! The new parts were far superior to the units that they replaced (that the parts came with) and will probably last two or three times as long as the original parts. Next up is my control arms, but they are fine at the present.

Good Luck,
Mike

 

Good information Mike, thank you.

If you don't mind sharing, where did you source your rod ends? I see that you are in SJ, so if you got them locally, I'd be very interested...

Thanks much.

Also, FWIW, I started this thread, which might interest some:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=101907

Just trying to learn how to best determine when it's time to replace...

 

Tony B.,

I was going to get them from Magnum Force on White Oaks in Campbell, but they did not have the good ones in stock and did not have the spherical bearing at all.

I got them from Pegasus Racing in Wisconsin. They were here in a couple of days.

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gro...GroupID=AURORA

I have the part numbers at home if you need them. You can also email me directly at michael.kubani@spectra-physics.com if you need more info.

Mike

 

Wow, Mike - thanks!

Well aware of Pegasus, so I'll go with them also. I'm going to build some type jig so that when I replace rod ends on my control arms, I'll maintain the same length as to not screw-up my alignment...

Thanks again, much appreciated.

 

Tim, I just saw this post... Indeed, please do share what Jeff has to say on this matter. Thanks.

 

Update: Jeff was very helpful and determined that I did have the earlier version of the joints from the photos I sent. If I had picked up on the problem before the 1yr was up I could have gotten them free(14mos :( ). But he still gave me a discount off list and I am getting the upgraded ones shipped out today. Total tab around 200. Not too bad all things considered. I hope to swap them this weekend and will occasionally update on the results.

They the only delay was my whacked out schedule getting back to him with info. All is well so far...
Tim

 

+1 Some of the stuff put on cars that will never see a track is nuts

 

Mine does see a track or 2 but lots more of daily driving. 3 -3500mi / month. Next year that will probably change with a new daily driver and blu becomes more of a weekender.

 

What do you guys recommend as far as lubricants for the heim joints?

 

I use a dry film, the name escapes me now... The wet stuff attracts dust and dirt of course.

 

tony- if the name pops back in your head please let me know.

 

My hiem joints lasted about 6,000 commuting miles. This was a deliberate test. Poly lasted about 20,000 miles.

I know some of you have read my comments about both and are probably bored by now , but the inner lower control arm bushing/hiem joints will take the brunt of punishment and here is where the ear will occur - in my experience.

Back to stock.

 

per stillen:

We use hi temperature/viscosity EP grease.
This grease contains solid lubricants that bond to the surface of the
metals, and prevent metal-to-metal contact minimizing friction and
wear.

Hope that helps!
Margaret Lo


which leads to my question...what the heck is this stuff?

 

What are the best adjustable control arms to use that don't have heim joints?

 

My experience so far? SPC - have the same elastokinimetric material as the stock arms. These are approporiate for road car driven on the track 5-10 times a season.