Is the clutch on the R53 hydraulically or mechanically activated?
If it is hydraulic, where is the fluid reservoir?
If it is mechanical, can the mechanism be serviced or lubricated?

I have an 02 that sometimes makes a sound when you depress the clutch pedal as if a cable or bushing is binding, other times it's perfectly fine. Clutch take up is fine with no slippage.

Dealer said hydraulic, but I sure can't find the master or slave cylinders or fluid reservoir.

Thanks!

 

The clutch is hydraulic, the master is located at the top of the pedal, inside the car and it shares a reservior with the brakes. You'll notice the corrugated hose coming of the reservior going into the firewall behind the brake booster.
the problem you are having sounds like the contact surface between the release bearing anf the pressure plate fingers are worn. This is very common and should not be too much of a concern until the clutch starts to engage very low to the floor.
--Dan

 

I have the same type problem, it started today after I drove to the bookstore. When I started back up, I noticed it. No slippage, clutch still engages in normal spot, just noise and a slight increase in pressure. The car drives normal besides this. It even went away for a time, (a few blocks) but is back.

Sounds like a binding of some part. I stuck my head under the car and pushed the clutch with my hand. I could hear a binding creak, and clicks just before and after the binding sound.

My car has 32,000 miles on it. I learned to drive manual on it, and broke the bad habit of "clutch pedel in at stop lights" more than half the car's life ago (15k). I learned heel-toe when the car was about 20k old. Before that I didnt downshift, I just put in the clutch and used the brake. I only have done maybe 2 burnouts in the car's life, the 2nd time more than 5k ago.

Is this "contact surface between the release bearing and the pressure plate fingers are worn" problem really as common and unconcerning as you say?

 

It's common if you hold the clutch in for long periods of time. The clutch release bearing is prone to failure to begin with, if you're holding the clutch in for extended periods of time (Longer than 10-15 seconds) it can reduce it's service life by more than half.

 

I just got back from a local trusted autoshop whos owner has a MINI. My throwout bearing might be "****-eyed" he said. It is rubbing on the inside as the pedel is moved. The bearing isn't trashed but its tilted or something that holds it is broken. The pressure plate might have issues too he said, its hard to tell for sure. It will get progressively worse and will fail resulting in an unshiftable MINI.

I wish my dad knew how to drive manual properly when he taught me years ago. I'd better warn him so he doesn't wreck his S2000's throwout bearng.

It will be about $800 labor just to open it up, bearing is more, and he recomended a clutch job at the same time. 1/2 the clutch's life is over, maybe more. I wanted to get an LSD at the same time but I am too poor. It's too bad my accounting text book wasn't worth more than $80...

 

Right now all is speculation nabeshin until the transmission is dropped. You can do it yourself and save some money https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...52#post1451152 . There is a new guide tube and clutch release bearing available now, as well as an updated (although what about it is improved I can’t see) clutch disc. The pressure plate may still be useable so don’t get too worked up just yet. I’ll post some photos late tomorrow so you will get an idea of what the workings look like.

 

The photos of the clutch release parts, guide tube, clutch release bearing,shaft & fork, along with a new transmission input shaft seal, new bolts and bushings.


The clutch release parts in the clutch housing.


The clutch disc and pressure plate.

 

Weird... my dad's been driving manual's for about 40 years now and still holds the clutch pedal down while sitting at a light. He's never had a problem. I know it wears the throwout bearing prematurely but it's still a mystery why it happens to some but not others. I, myself, try to stay off the clutch as often as possible.

 

I guess the new clutches ain't built like they used to be. I also have been driving sticks for many years and until the MINI, I always held the clutch down at lights. I changed my stopped depressed clutch habit after reading how frail the MINI clutch and throw out bearing are. I guess everything is made lighter these days in the interest of efficiency.

 

You're right, they are not built like they used to be, they're better.
The old clutch release bearing had an all metal contact surface for the guide tube.


The latest clutch release bearings have a synthetic material (I would assume it is a self lubricating compound) lining the sliding surface.


The old guide tube has a finish that looks like parkerization and the new model has a polished finish to help reduce friction.


The stock clutch system is not frail, it has limitations, but it's still capable under most operating conditions.

 

And these can all be obtained through the dealer? I have the part numbers thanks to realoem.com. Anyone know if the Spec throwout bearing has that synthetic self-lubricating lining? Would a new guide tube work with a non-lined T/O bearing? Is it even worth using the Spec bearing? Would the new oem be higher quality?

BTW im sorry if I hijacked this thread. But my story and questions seemed to be relivant to MINISQL's situation.

 

Actually Thanks to all of you, GrassRoots Dan, K-Huevo, Rustyboy and everyone else. No hijack, I wanted discussion and thats what I'm getting. I lubricated the hole where the return spring goes through the pedal, it helped a little, but the real problem is a slight occassional binding somewhere in the clutch actuating mechanism. Could be the pressure plate as has been suggested, or the splines on the shaft or the tube. Won't know until I replace the clutch sometime in the future, I still remember laying on my back under my Datsun 510 with the transmission on my stomach trying to line up the shaft with the hole in the flywheel. I have a feeling the MINI will be worse.

 

Parts prdered, $198. Does not include the clutch or release bearing. Should be here on friday with the Spec clutch and pressure plate.

 

You doing the job yourself? If os, and you need advice, K-huevo or myself have both done this job. It is straight forward, it just requires pulling a boat load of the car apart to do it. Plan on a full days work unless you are an old tech or have 2-3 helpers.

PM me if you need specifics. Bentley is a must for this job too. Make sure you get the throw out bearing seated properly. It needs to lock in, not just sit on the arm.

Good luck!

 

I'm going to leave it to an ASE certified mechanic who has worked on MINIs before, though not this exact job. I'm just getting the parts for him. At the end of this it should cost $800 labor, $450 for the spec clutch, pressure plate & bearing, and $198 for release bearing guide and shaft and fork & what not. Also about two weeks time from today. Parts arive on friday and it will take the mechanic a week. As an interesting side note; the local BMW dealer, now only an hour away, said that there are no spare clutch release forks in the country... as such it's on it's way from Germany. Exciting yeah?