Walked out to the car and hit the button on the remote. There was the reassuring click to indicate that all was well, but the drivers door was still locked..........but the passenger door was not. Cycled the remote again .......nuthin. The passenger door lock button thumped up and down , but the drivers door did not. Tried the key in the door, worked like a charm.
Anyone have this problem and how did you solve it?
Jock

 

Did it repeat? Maybe a ghost in the machine.

 

Does it auto lock and unlock correctly when starting / stopping? Does unlock toggle switch unlock it correctly? If the actual lock button/wire is binding from friction, it will keep the button from coming up - it actually doesn't take much resistance to stop it. But the key would still work in the case. But you should have the same symptom from the toggle switch as the remote...

 

does not work from inside with toggle.
The service MGR at MINI of Peabody said something about a "module"
($80! )

the door seems to make the *click* with the remote/toggle, but the foolish button just doesn't go up, seems more like a linkage problem or as was suggested , one of excess friction. If it ever stops raining here in the Northeast, maybe I'll tear the door apart and have a look see.

 

Sounds like the cable has stretched and popped off. There have been several threads about this.

 

here's an odd one, I just got home and was sitting in the driveway trying every combo. Just when I thought I would have to open the window to use the key, I tried to door handle from the inside and the lock popped up! Wierd!
I'll tear into it tomorrow and let you all in on what I find. Jock

 

I have been working on my mini today with the same problem. I took out the module and it contains the whole latch and all locking, unlocking motors. I tested the module while out of the vehicle. So there was no load and no binding. it would not work. I took apart the module thinking I could fix it. I could not get to the electronics. all levers and gears are free. the board is molded into the structure of the module. It is unservicable. I had to put it back together to get my door to latch as I did not buy the part thinking I could fix it. Damn. now after waisting 3 hours I have to drive to the stealer next week to buy the part. they told me 120 bucks. I am going to call classic and see if it is cheaper to order. now after I got it put back together I put the module together wrong as it will not lock at all now. so I will be unable to lock my car until I get this module.

there are 3 screws holding it in. and it is connected to the indoor pull cable, an exterior handle cable, the lock connecting dogbone, and the plug. It took me woite a while to figure out how to get all the parts disconnected. but now I am an expert.

form doing a forum search it is a common problem. seems as they go out quite a bit.

I hate that they make these parts so dang complex now that it can not be serviced.

after being so intamate with the module, it is not weard that it popped up the lock from opening the door from the inside. that is a mechanicle connection that unlocks the door. it is a safety feature. it is the electronics in the module that are fried. hope you are handy or have someone that is. THe quote to have the module put in was 400 bucks including parts.

 

!

thanks for this input , you definately saved me a bunch of time today chasing this thing down [probably coming to the same conclusion] I see this is your first post, welcome to the boards! (been here a while myself, it's quite a jones)

 

Gpwpat, Ditto that.



Gee holdenontoit, I posted about this POS door lock thing some time ago.
A MINI tech commented on the repairs as did a few others. It really sucks to own a MINI with crap for parts like this. By the way, it's going to cost a whole lot more than $80.00. That's probably the cost of a BC1 that controls the lock but I'll bet it is another defective door lock module.

I don't want to feel this way but the reality is that this is this is crap and we are stuck with it.

What really upsets me is that my 10 year old American made GM Saturn with convenience package remote door locks still work and from further away.

Well I feel better for now untill the next time I drive somewhere and then will be reminded as I stick my key in the Stupid, annoyingly over engineered, unreliable, expensive piece of crap friggin lock.

 

yup. my 4 honda civics with over half a million miles combined, never had problems like this car, oh and by the way, just called my dealer and was told $128 for the module.

 

I forgot to add.

when you get your module loose from the door and all the connections. it will not pass by the window track. you will have to remove the bolt in the bottom of the door that holds the track in place. this way you can move the track all the way back and just barley get the module past.

It really is a pain in the a$$ to get out. getting it in is easier as you learn all the tricks getting it out.

Once I get my part I figure I can switch it out under an hour. I spent most of my time yesterday trying to figure out how the module worked. I had to grind off rivits and when putting it back together I had to drill and tap the parts so it would stay together so I could atleast latch the door.

My grandfather has a 1950's caddy. power windows and locks still work in that. they have never needed to be serviced.


here is the part # for the drivers side module.

51200556768

this isn't really my forst post here. it has just been a while. I forgot my old login name and password.

 

gpwpat thanks for the tips.

Your approach is the same as mine take the dammed thing apart and fix it.
But I guess they outgunned us this time by building an unserviceable part.
Just have to pay the piper and buy the stupid part. I wonder if they are new and improved.
Or if this will lead to more frustration if nothing has changed it may fail again.:impatient

 

-drive to dealer to buy part $128 (22 miles)
-drive back home and spend 2 hours trying to get old part out (unsuccessfully)
-drive back to dealer looking stupid holding door closed (really stupid)
-wait 2 hours and pay $99 labor for tech to finish job.
-drive back home whole again...........priceless.

I got as far as trying to remove the cable that sits inside the little trap door and that just stumped me. Also broke 1 tab off the electrical connector trying to get that off. This 59 year old body just doesn't take to kneeling that long with half my body inside a door panel. I think I did save some money by doing the majority of the tear down, but it was when the tech said he could do the job in the dark in his sleep that I knew I was over my head. He replaced the cable to the inside door handle at the same time ($15), which I knew the symptom of (sticky handle) but didn't know the cure. One Sat. shot to h e l l.

 

The money and one Sat. shot to hell sure is a high price to pay for something that shouldn't be failing this often.
I encourage everyone to jump on Jeremy1026's thread and post;
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=99835

 

I got my part today from classic. $94 shipped. since I had practiced last week. it took me 1/2 hr to switch it out today. I could do it with my eyes closed.

 

Where are you located

 

And where is Classic? I need one of these parts, too!

 

OK, I have just successfully replaced the lock module on the p-side door of my 03 MC. As others have mentioned, Classic gives NAM members a 20% discount on all instock parts.

gpwpat's hints here and via PM helped quite a bit. Here are a couple of hard-learned lessons if you want to attempt this:

Make sure the inner door handle cable is routed behind the power window motor track, or it will bind (I learned this the hard way).

Remove the inner door handle to give some play in the cable that attaches to the module. This will allow you to hook the cable onto the module before you slide it into the cavity between the inner and outer door skins (the other two attachements - from the outside handle and the button - can be done once the module is in place).

This is a do-able repair. I have average mechanical ability (compared with other do-it-yourselfers, that is), and this 2 hour job (which I could now do in about 45 minutes but hope I never have to unless I'm helping someone else fix theirs) saved me around $300.

 

Where exactly is classic AND thanx for the help ...just bought same unit for 140.00 at dealer .still need to put in....Any extra tips would be greatly app=rieated

 

Honestly guys, no offence, its a 20 minute job for the dealer, Window comes out, regulator somes out, unclip all clips in door, take out the plug, stick a long screw driver in to pull down the outside door handle and remove cable, unbolt latch, unclip inside door handle and remove from detent. swap over plastic guide for outside door cable and detent for cable stub. Install. They ll even spray your regualor and hinges with grease inside in they are nice. Its painful to listen to someone who has to keep hold their door shut for a 2 hour drive and explain to the dealer what happend.

 

It can be painful to own a MINI but for some of us (DIY) it hurts so good.