My driver's door lock always seems to work with the toggle or key fob. The automatic lock/unlock function sometimes does not. Sometimes the lock button goes halfway up or down, only the driver's side.

Dealer has been trying. They lubricated the mechanism and replaced the toggle switch bank thinking the switch was the cause by shorting out , problem continues.

They do not seem to think it is the actuator. Cold seems to make it worse. Any ideas ? Thanks.

 

In my mind, cold making it worse would indicate that the actuator is bad. Think about it. Cold makes everything contract thus making more friction. When you use the key fob or the switch, you hit it until you hear it lock. The auto lock is a short signal sent to the actuator and evidently the actuator is weak or binding slightly causing the actuator to not fully lock the door. *shrug* That's just my opinion though.

 

sounds to me like u need an actuator try a differant dealer

 

The dealer dosen't want to replace the lock as it is $100.00 street price and a giant pain to replace. It IS the actuator thought. They are not the highest quality manufacturer. Ours is toast and will remain so since it's not worth $100.00 to replace it for teh "conveninece?"

 

a whole $100.00 o wow so expensive... and the actuator is easy to replace if you know how to do it trust me done enough it's an easy thing to replace

 

How about posting a How to and share some of that experience.

 

I'm going to be replacing my door lock actuator on the drivers side. I'll try to take a few pics and a quick write up when I get done.

 

This took me approximately 2 hours and I consider myself above average in mechanical skills. This happened on a 2003 Mini Cooper S.

First remove the inner door panel. I'm not going into this. There is an excellent writeup at Mini2 on this.

There's not a whole lot to take pictures of.

First look inside and get acquainted with the tight space you're going to be working. When looking toward the outside edge of the door (the part where it latches) you'll first see the rail the window rides along. This will be in your way and it is possible to remove, but not necessary.

Just behind it, sort of wedged into the inside corner of the door is the lock actuator assembly. Just opposite it is the backside of the door handle.



There are 3 steps to the removal.

1) Removing the 2 door opening cables, the lock indicator bar, and the electronics connector.

2) Removing the outside handle (drivers side door only).

3) Removing the 3 screws holding the actuator in place and wiggle it past the window bar.

Step 1


As you look inside the door, to the outside of the door will be the cable that opens the door from the handle. At the bottom right corner of the actuator is the end of the cable. Pull the cable down for slack and then towards the front and up at the same time to disconnect. Remove the cable from the holder above it and one cable down.

For the inside cable, you have 2 options. First and easiest is leave it connected and disconnect it from the inside handle and just thread it through the door and remove with the actuator. Otherwise, look at your new actuator (you do have it right?) and you'll have to open the flap and lift it off. You may as well take it out, I doubt anybody could get the darn thing on the mechanism inside the door.

Removing the electronics cable is tricky. It's hard to see and I broke off both sets of clips that hold it in place. Don't know what I'll do to keep it on. Probably glue it once it falls off once. The clips are fragile.

Finally, the bar that shows the door unlocked or locked, just pop it out away from the actuator and remove from the car.

Step 2

Probably the most difficult part.

There are 3 screws that hold the door handle in place. They are right where you'd expect them to be. The one toward the rear has a hex head (10mm) and an allen wrench head (5mm). Back it out all the way.

The one near the outside edge of the door is allen only. If you have a long enough allen wrench, I'm talking medium length screwdriver here, back it out. Otherwise, a t-27 torx head will work in a pinch. There is an access hole under the rubber cover near the upper-outside edge of the door. Remove the grommet and have at it. Back it out until the handle come free. Gently pull the handle away and the cable comes with it.


The third screw is torx t-25 and is under the rubber grommet on the outside edge of the door (where the door strike is) Just above 3 t-25 screws. Look at the picture. Remove it and the lock tumbler is free. It may not come out now due to the actuator holding it in place.


Step 3

Remove the 3 t-25 torx screws holding the actuator to the door it includes the strike so when those are free, it will start to fall inside the door. Make sure your window is fully up.

If you look inside the door, the rail for the window has a bolt coming up from the bottom of the door. If you loosen that bolt (10mm hex), you can slide the rail about 1/2" toward the inside. This will give you just enough room to wiggle the actuator out.

BE CAREFUL HERE. If you force the actuator, one of the edges could leave marks in the door body panel. Don't force it. You will have to angle it slightly and drop it down to the widest part of the door and just work with it and it will come out.

Once it's out of the car, remove the cable for the inside door handle. Remove the white clip that held the cable for the outside door handle and you'll have to remove the bottom clip that held the outside door handle cable at the bottom.

Installation is the reverse. Be sure to tighten things appropriately.

 

thnx for the window track moving tip, that did it for me! nice to have working door locks again!

 

Cheers for doing this !

 

I had a problem with locks as well, was told by the dealer both lock actuators were affected. Armed with the detailed descriptions and pics (thanks, CUR) my boyfriend replaced the lock... but the problem was not fixed. He reset the positive clamp on the battery and that was it! so, if you can unlock but cannot lock with the key - don't spend lots $$ and time, try resetting your battery first.

 

sounds like you gotta get the kids outta the front seat. lock actuators will stop locking after awhile if they overheat from continuous use.

 

My 2004 suddenly lost all door locking capabilities, either with the key or the fob. This is clearly a common problem, as well documented in the threads. Come on, Mini, let's get this fixed for free, it is obviously a manufacturers defect.

Unhappy Camper.

 

I replaced '05 Mini Cooper S Convertible. Info helped alot

 

FYI, my local Mini Dealer quoted me $600-$750 to repair.

 

its cheaper to by online at
http://www.minicarparts.net/Nxt/sear...=door+actuator
the part is at this web is priced at $116
and its not to bad to do it ur self if u follow above pics

 

Yes it needs an actuator the water is getting in there and shorts it out causing it not to work at times and is worse when cold like when the water in the door freezes. In have replaced quite a few for this concern, ask them to put an actuator in. They can lube it all day long it will not help.

 

Great post on here. Thanks for the write up Cur.

I followed the instructions and was able to replace it.
Just a couple of notes I like to add.

When you get to step where you need to remove the bottom bolt to slide the window rail 1.5", you need to give it a good pull towards in the inside of the car as the rail bottom pieces sits on some sort of track.

Be very patient in removing the broke actuator. The is about just 1 exact angle where you can slide the old unit out and the new unit in.

 

I have a question for the thread. I was pulling off my door cover and thought I had the lock pushed down through but I didnt. Looking at the locking mechanism I am unable to feel where the little green holder is that the lock push goes into. Did I bust the actuator or can you get another green holder?