Skidplate Hardware Help
#2
Here is a link to the install instructions for the Cobalt plate: Link
You can see that all the hardware for install is already there - don't need anything new except the plate.
I installed this a couple of weeks ago. It is very easy unless, like I, you have the M7 USS. Then you will need to cut out some notches in the skid plate to fit under the USS. The notches are for the bolts that are part of the USS.
Still not hard at all.
You can see that all the hardware for install is already there - don't need anything new except the plate.
I installed this a couple of weeks ago. It is very easy unless, like I, you have the M7 USS. Then you will need to cut out some notches in the skid plate to fit under the USS. The notches are for the bolts that are part of the USS.
Still not hard at all.
#6
#7
You re-use the existing three bolts at the front & the two strange ones to the sides that hold the factory plastic piece on. The four bolts that do the majority of holding do come with the plate. They screw into the cross-member. Those are the ones that should be replaced with Stainless Steel. I just took the supplied bolts to the hardware store & matched them up. I also used blue Loctite 242 on those bolts. Sorry I don't remember the size of those bolts.
EDIT...The four bolts that came with mine were an allen head. The stainless steel bolts I used were regular hex head bolts & they worked fine for the job.
EDIT...The four bolts that came with mine were an allen head. The stainless steel bolts I used were regular hex head bolts & they worked fine for the job.
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#8
#9
#11
#12
Maybe one wiser than me will answer.
I have to change my oil today requiring me to remove my skid plate. If you can wait a while I'll get back to you later today about the bolt size and how to.
#13
no need for a how to....but bolt size and thread pitch is what is needed. I am eager for this info as well as the original poster because when I recieved and installed my skidplate moss left out the hardware, I eamialed them twice with no response so moss will not be getting any more of my buisness.... I made many trips to the hardware store trying to get the right hardware only to end up getting non-stainless hardware that required me to get a shop to remove the bolts when I changed my oil....right now my plate is sitting in my garage waitng for me to find the time to re-install it but I dont have 3 hours to spend making 6 more trips to the hardware store guessing ad thread pitch and bolt size
#14
#15
I needed to buy bolts for the rear mounting holes. They are M10X1.50x20 (10mm diameter, 1.5 thread pitch, 20mm long(found this out on another thread)). For now I picked up hex-heads from Lowes and installed with some anti-sieze. I had the car already on ramps when I realized I needed them (this is why you should be sure when you post MiniMayBee, and calling Moss got me nowhere prior to install). Now that it is mounted and I am not in 'need it now' mode, I will source some nice button-top allen head bolts that will not only look better, but reduce the minor chance of snagging hex-head on something.
#16
Let us know where you get those stainless button heads.....Because that was my mistake. I installed the common black button head cap screws and they rusted in tight! the ace hardware did not carry(or i couldnt find them) those sizes in stainless
#17
Ours is apparently not an isolated incident. When we had a pully installed at Helix, Eric thanked me for changing the bolts as he's had trouble with that hardware as well. I keep pre-made extra bolts around to swap out whenever I work on friends' MINIs with the skid plate.
Still use a ton of anti-sieze on the threads. I put a split lock washer on as well.
I also replaced the front lip hardware with longer bolts and larger fender-style washers. Makes installation easier.
FWIW, I always remove the plate when doing oil changes. This has less to do with drain plug access and more with checking for leaks and CV-joint condition.
#18
#19
Personally, I recommend against this. When we first installed the skid plate, I used the hardware that came with it: those fancy-looking button-head hex-bolts. After a Winter of driving through slush and salt, they thoroughly siezed into the subframe. Yes, I DID use a liberal amount of anti-sieze when I installed them. Stainless steel is really too soft of a material for his application and 6mm is too small for an M10 bolt. A recipe for stripping.
Ours is apparently not an isolated incident. When we had a pully installed at Helix, Eric thanked me for changing the bolts as he's had trouble with that hardware as well. I keep pre-made extra bolts around to swap out whenever I work on friends' MINIs with the skid plate.
Still use a ton of anti-sieze on the threads. I put a split lock washer on as well.
I also replaced the front lip hardware with longer bolts and larger fender-style washers. Makes installation easier.
FWIW, I always remove the plate when doing oil changes. This has less to do with drain plug access and more with checking for leaks and CV-joint condition.
Ours is apparently not an isolated incident. When we had a pully installed at Helix, Eric thanked me for changing the bolts as he's had trouble with that hardware as well. I keep pre-made extra bolts around to swap out whenever I work on friends' MINIs with the skid plate.
Still use a ton of anti-sieze on the threads. I put a split lock washer on as well.
I also replaced the front lip hardware with longer bolts and larger fender-style washers. Makes installation easier.
FWIW, I always remove the plate when doing oil changes. This has less to do with drain plug access and more with checking for leaks and CV-joint condition.
So what bolts do you use and recommend??
Thanks
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sempaipaul
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09-18-2015 03:05 PM