Who is using a Fumoto Oil drain valve on your MINI ?
FYI: From www.fumotousa.com
This mod of a mod might just be worth it...
Warning:
For users under extreme conditions:
If you are using the Engine Oil Drain Valve on off-road vehicles such as farm tractors and logging equipment under extreme environment (i.e. corn fields, brush areas), it is recommended that a hose clip as shown below be used for extra safety and security. The hose clip, which can be purchased at any hardware stores, will firmly keep the lever in the locked position at all times.


Drain Valve SizeHose Clip Size
T, FG Series === 11/16" Clip
F Series === 5/8" Clip
(I believe that the F-106 fits the MINI, so we would use the 5/8 inch clip)
This mod of a mod might just be worth it...
Warning:
For users under extreme conditions:
If you are using the Engine Oil Drain Valve on off-road vehicles such as farm tractors and logging equipment under extreme environment (i.e. corn fields, brush areas), it is recommended that a hose clip as shown below be used for extra safety and security. The hose clip, which can be purchased at any hardware stores, will firmly keep the lever in the locked position at all times.


Drain Valve SizeHose Clip Size
T, FG Series === 11/16" Clip
F Series === 5/8" Clip
Great...Idea
FYI: From www.fumotousa.com
This mod of a mod might just be worth it...
(I believe that the F-106 fits the MINI, so we would use the 5/8 inch clip)
This mod of a mod might just be worth it...
(I believe that the F-106 fits the MINI, so we would use the 5/8 inch clip)


...Looks like a smart way to go...Yes, it is the F-106 model.Thanks
jeff
Here's what worked fine when I installed this on my MINI and two Toyotas:
Don't forget the gasket/washer that's included with the valve.
Hand-tighten, and finish it off with a crescent wrench applied to the outside of the valve housing to align the lever so it can be reached. No need to screw up everything by over-tightening it.
(An open-ended box wrench would work fine, too, if your crescent wrench leverages paranoia throughout your reality. You can overtighten with any kind of wrench, whether it's demon-possessed or not.)
And remember that every time you unbolt motor mounts & jack up the engine (to swap pulleys, replace belts, fawn over an exposed pulley, etc), you have to remove this valve or you'll damage the power steering fan and possibly the valve as you raise up the motor.
-Ed
Don't forget the gasket/washer that's included with the valve.
Hand-tighten, and finish it off with a crescent wrench applied to the outside of the valve housing to align the lever so it can be reached. No need to screw up everything by over-tightening it.
(An open-ended box wrench would work fine, too, if your crescent wrench leverages paranoia throughout your reality. You can overtighten with any kind of wrench, whether it's demon-possessed or not.)
And remember that every time you unbolt motor mounts & jack up the engine (to swap pulleys, replace belts, fawn over an exposed pulley, etc), you have to remove this valve or you'll damage the power steering fan and possibly the valve as you raise up the motor.
-Ed
The output hole housing is not hex on mine but round..thus it would seem that first HAND TIGHTEN...then snug up with a open ended box wrench...Hate cresent wrenches (even the good ones)...they always seem to loosen up and make a mess of what you are trying to tighten.....those who put them in already....your input would be of great assistance here
Thanks for the confirmation
Here's what worked fine when I installed this on my MINI and two Toyotas:
Don't forget the gasket/washer that's included with the valve.
Hand-tighten, and finish it off with a crescent wrench applied to the outside of the valve housing to align the lever so it can be reached. No need to screw up everything by over-tightening it.
(An open-ended box wrench would work fine, too, if your crescent wrench leverages paranoia throughout your reality. You can overtighten with any kind of wrench, whether it's demon-possessed or not.)
And remember that every time you unbolt motor mounts & jack up the engine (to swap pulleys, replace belts, fawn over an exposed pulley, etc), you have to remove this valve or you'll damage the power steering fan and possibly the valve as you raise up the motor.
-Ed
Don't forget the gasket/washer that's included with the valve.
Hand-tighten, and finish it off with a crescent wrench applied to the outside of the valve housing to align the lever so it can be reached. No need to screw up everything by over-tightening it.
(An open-ended box wrench would work fine, too, if your crescent wrench leverages paranoia throughout your reality. You can overtighten with any kind of wrench, whether it's demon-possessed or not.)
And remember that every time you unbolt motor mounts & jack up the engine (to swap pulleys, replace belts, fawn over an exposed pulley, etc), you have to remove this valve or you'll damage the power steering fan and possibly the valve as you raise up the motor.
-Ed


...Builds a good case for a skid plate or that metal fan screen from Moss Mini!Mine is currently siezed and will have to go back to the dealer (250 Miles RT over Donner Pass) for replacement...They want $160 for one + shipping (it is really a POS too...for that they can do it under warranty...no impact signs either and it has the screen...just cheaply made.(I do not use the mini in Winter other than to start it up and run around the block a few times per month.
Will wait until spring when I have less of a chance of a broken windshield or getting caught in a high Sierra Snow storm...like that poor guy in Oregon...I won't even take the "uglymobile" Over it this time, of year unless the weather forecast is good for 3 or more days! Remember when I had a Land Rover a few years ago...a freak storm developed within hours, in APRIL, and even with that beast, getting over the pass was a bear!
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,808
Likes: 2
From: Ellicott City, Maryland USA
mr_edly
And remember that every time you unbolt motor mounts & jack up the engine (to swap pulleys, replace belts, fawn over an exposed pulley, etc), you have to remove this valve or you'll damage the power steering fan and possibly the valve as you raise up the motor.
Have you experienced this. I haven't been under my MCS since installing my header to check this interference issue out yet.
I think I might order the "N-SERIES" with nipple as a stocking stuffer and get one for my wife's Nissan Ultima 3.5.
It's worse with the nipple, but even the valves without the nipple protrude an extra 1-2 inches beyond the stock drainplug. I believe that's enough to catch and trash the fragile PS fan assembly.
> you have to remove this valve or you'll damage the power steering fan and possibly the valve as you raise up the motor.
> you have to remove this valve or you'll damage the power steering fan and possibly the valve as you raise up the motor.
As a result of reading this thread, I've just ordered a nippled (te-hehe) version :D. Can't wait to recieve it, will most certainly make oil changes quicker!
(Now.. if only there was a way to make it easier to get up the car ramps with my lowered Mini...)
(Now.. if only there was a way to make it easier to get up the car ramps with my lowered Mini...)
Ramps
They are not metal...have a good weight rating...But I still put jackstands under after it goes up on the ramps (and block the rear wheels)....things are made like ^&%$ these days
Over here in Australia its a lot harder to find stuff like that... I'm having a hell of a time finding a low profile jack that will let me jack the car up without driving on blocks of wood first!!
Just put mine on last weekend during the 6K mile oil change. No drips or seeps and you know it will be so much easier to change oil next time. Next time it goes to the dealer for the freebie change so I'm guessing they will know how to use the valve and not remove it. Perhaps I should check on this before.
I did my first oil change and didn't even need ramps.
Yes, I should have mentioned that.
By the way, it's been my experience that Schomp is a terrific dealership. Every single experience I've had with them has been positive. Even when they make a mistake (and we all make mistakes) they do what they can to take care of it. For example, one time, I scheduled a service to take care of a warrantee item. When I picked the car up, they appologized that one of the parts hadn't arrived in time for the service appointment. My car was still drivable, so I took it home. When the part finally came in, they sent a driver to pick up my car at my office and left me with a BMW loaner for the day. When they were done with my car, they returned it to me and picked up their loaner. That's what I call excellent service!
By the way, it's been my experience that Schomp is a terrific dealership. Every single experience I've had with them has been positive. Even when they make a mistake (and we all make mistakes) they do what they can to take care of it. For example, one time, I scheduled a service to take care of a warrantee item. When I picked the car up, they appologized that one of the parts hadn't arrived in time for the service appointment. My car was still drivable, so I took it home. When the part finally came in, they sent a driver to pick up my car at my office and left me with a BMW loaner for the day. When they were done with my car, they returned it to me and picked up their loaner. That's what I call excellent service!
^^^ +1.
I had mine in for about 2 weeks while they tracked down an air bag/ seat belt light issues. All the while I had me a MCSc to play with. When I got my car back I noticed that the passenger sill was dented like they had dropped the seat while putting it back in. No problem replaced the sill chrome piece and the vinyl trim pieces that also had some scratches. Very pleased with their service and their support of our MINI club.
Oops - sorry about the OT
I had mine in for about 2 weeks while they tracked down an air bag/ seat belt light issues. All the while I had me a MCSc to play with. When I got my car back I noticed that the passenger sill was dented like they had dropped the seat while putting it back in. No problem replaced the sill chrome piece and the vinyl trim pieces that also had some scratches. Very pleased with their service and their support of our MINI club.
Oops - sorry about the OT
Last edited by MiniMaybee; Dec 12, 2006 at 09:31 AM. Reason: Sorry OT
Anyone found the F-106N (nipple version) available for less than direct through a Fumoto dealer? Moss sells the F-106 for about $18 when list is ~$28.50, but they don't carry the F-106N that lists for ~$35. Cheapest I can find in Dallas area is $31.25 and I'd prefer not to pay more than necessary
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,808
Likes: 2
From: Ellicott City, Maryland USA
More INFO
It's worse with the nipple, but even the valves without the nipple protrude an extra 1-2 inches beyond the stock drainplug. I believe that's enough to catch and trash the fragile PS fan assembly.
> you have to remove this valve or you'll damage the power steering fan and possibly the valve as you raise up the motor.
> you have to remove this valve or you'll damage the power steering fan and possibly the valve as you raise up the motor.
The F-106N (with Nipple) has plenty of room to the rear on a 2003 MCS; July build not equipped with OEM fan cover. Same deal as above if your lifting the engine.
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,808
Likes: 2
From: Ellicott City, Maryland USA
Hey FUEGO
Anyone found the F-106N (nipple version) available for less than direct through a Fumoto dealer? Moss sells the F-106 for about $18 when list is ~$28.50, but they don't carry the F-106N that lists for ~$35. Cheapest I can find in Dallas area is $31.25 and I'd prefer not to pay more than necessary 

Did my 1st change since installing the Fumoto on Friday afternoon. Very nice. I'm 100% happy with it and now have to order Fumotos for my classic Mini and my wife's Subaru.
As for all the people having issues with ramps...I paid $15 for ramps from Autozone and have no problem at all driving my MINI or Mini onto them. Of course, neither can is lowered, but they aren't even close to scraping.
As for all the people having issues with ramps...I paid $15 for ramps from Autozone and have no problem at all driving my MINI or Mini onto them. Of course, neither can is lowered, but they aren't even close to scraping.
Fuego ordered his valve from this source: http://www.lubricationspecialist.com/
The price is supposedly a smidge more than Moss, but the shipping is cheaper. They also have the spring clamp (technically called a 'Corbin' clamp) for $1, just to be safe. You would figure that Home Depot would carry those little suckers, but I must have been into 5-7 hardware/appliance/auto stores in the past 2 weeks and NOBODY had them. They have been replaced by the worm-drive clamps, so nobody local has 'em.
The price is supposedly a smidge more than Moss, but the shipping is cheaper. They also have the spring clamp (technically called a 'Corbin' clamp) for $1, just to be safe. You would figure that Home Depot would carry those little suckers, but I must have been into 5-7 hardware/appliance/auto stores in the past 2 weeks and NOBODY had them. They have been replaced by the worm-drive clamps, so nobody local has 'em.
used-but-perfect "F-106N (with Nipple)" for $20 plus shipping (I guess $4)
SOLD soon after posting.
I'll sell my used-but-perfect "F-106N (with Nipple)" for $20 plus shipping (I guess $4). Oily undamaged washer that came from Fumoto is included.
(My MCS was totaled last Wed when some uninsured yahoo turned in front of me. I could have swerved to avoid him and hit on-coming traffic, but this way I'm not at fault for the accident. Good thing witnesses hung around for the police report, and good thing I've got uninsured motorist coverage -- my company will reimburse me appropriately.)
I know this isn't the "for Sale" category, but it's such a specialized part, I hope posting in this thread is ok.
I'll sell my used-but-perfect "F-106N (with Nipple)" for $20 plus shipping (I guess $4). Oily undamaged washer that came from Fumoto is included.
(My MCS was totaled last Wed when some uninsured yahoo turned in front of me. I could have swerved to avoid him and hit on-coming traffic, but this way I'm not at fault for the accident. Good thing witnesses hung around for the police report, and good thing I've got uninsured motorist coverage -- my company will reimburse me appropriately.)
I know this isn't the "for Sale" category, but it's such a specialized part, I hope posting in this thread is ok.
Anyone found the F-106N (nipple version) available for less than direct through a Fumoto dealer? Moss sells the F-106 for about $18 when list is ~$28.50, but they don't carry the F-106N that lists for ~$35. Cheapest I can find in Dallas area is $31.25 and I'd prefer not to pay more than necessary 

Jock
I've just installing mine this morning, amazing little thing. Guy whos hoist I borrowed was VERY impressed!
[Edit: BTW was actually fixing an exhaust rattle when I installed it; I'm not *that* lazy to use a hoist just to change the valve over
]



