Just replaced the front brake pads and rotors on my MCS. When I was going to the rear I checked to see if the caliper piston would slide back into the caliper body by checking it with a long screwdriver and it would not slide back.

I assume that this means that this means that the piston screws out from the body so it has to be screwed back in. Is there a special tool for this or can I make something? I have encountered this before and made a tool but before I take it apart I wanted to get some guidence.

 

A rear caliper retractor tool is made for the MINI's rear calipers. Here is one vendors offering:

http://new.minimania.com/web/Item/NM.../InvDetail.cfm

Be sure to release pressure in the brake lines by loosening the bleed screw. Or you will have a bunch of brake fluid spilling out of the brake fluid reservoir in the engine compartment (along with all of the headaches that go along with spilled brake fluid). And it would be a good idea to bleed the system anyway after everything is finished.

 

Harbor Freight has a tool for $20 that looks and works exactly like the OEM MINI tool.

Rawhyde

 

ANY device that will allow you to turn and push will work.
I have done a couple with long nose plyers, a Makita grinder wrench, and a C clamp with a welded contact base.
Once it bites your good to go.

 

Well, I was trying to boost vendors that support the forum....

 

yeah... but TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS???

Helix (also a supporting vendor... ) sells the same tool for a bit less... although not much...

I haven't tried the H-F version, but the cheapo Pep Boys version I have doesn't have the pins close enough.

 

I use this tool which is a combination of parts sold by http://www.samstagsales.com/ .


Three years ago I couldn’t get the MINI tool and the work around was a hassle and that part set was the only option available. The right tool will make the job so much easier and you are more than likely to do the job more than a few times in the life of your MINI. I just used it while troubleshooting an e-brake issue.

 

The H F one works just fine. Many of our club members have that kit.

 

I have used the HF version of mine several times. It comes with 6 adapter plates but you don't need those since the pins on the tool fit perfectly. Plus, it's $20! Also, all euro rear calipers need to be turned while pushed in (I should know). If you indeed have a M3...you should already know this. But anyways, you do not need to bleed the brakes when changing pads or rotors. You don't induce any air into the lines since you don't open anything up. You simulate normal caliper function. I don't know why people say to do this. Good luck.

 

The reason I suggested bleeding the brakes after adjusting the caliper is to remove any corrosion/contamination from the caliper that may have been back-filled during the compression process. If you don't want to be bothered with that additional precaution, don't do it.

 

But, your simulating NORMAL day-to-day caliper function. Slight corrosion/contamination is already present thoughout the entire system due to fluid reaction and longevity breakdown. If you have a lot...you must have a leak. Anyways, this wasn't a comment towards you...it was a generalized comment. People say to bleed the system like it is MANDATORY not PRECAUTION when doing a rotor/pad change. I just wanted to let the original poster know this so he doesn't have to spend the extra money on material if he didn't have to. BTW, I have to bleed my brakes in a couple of days cause I'm installing my ST BBK....

 

Usually, the day-to-day application of the brakes involves millimetric (or, more like a fraction of a millimeter per application) movement of the piston in the caliper. Pushing the piston back in the caliper to be able to fit new pads runs the risk of dislodging corrosion and general crap into the caliper body. I was recommending a bleed (and not a full flush; just a short bleed) to get rid of any stuff that might have gotten dislodged during the effort to push the piston back into the caliper. I may be obsessing, but where brakes are concerned, my philosophy is better safe than sorry.

 

Agreed....

 

Yeah, bleeding the brakes to get rust particles and old fluid out is a good idea when doing a brake job. I don't think it's manditory, but it's a nice crowning touch....gilding the lilly.

Another example of using a little extra effort (to good effect) is putting a small dab of Anti-Seize on the lugs and the Torx bolt that holds the rotor on. These are nice steps to take on cars you plan to keep for a while.

Rawhyde

 

Hi. What is the name of the Harbor Freight tool for retracting the MINI rear calipers? Can someone please post a link to it? Thank you!

-boognish

 

you know, a c-clamp and a pair of pump pliers will also work fine if you're in a pinch just be careful not to grab the boot and tear it (around the piston). adjust the c-clamp as the piston goes back into the caliper, also, a good idea is to open your bleeder when you do this as to not force dirt and debris back into the abs unit. So, crack the bleeder, squeeze in the calipers, install your pads and rotors, and bleed the brake system upon completion.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40732

 

In particular, the Torx bolt that holds the rotor on.... You will thank yourself for doing that little step the next time you have to remove the rotor - the bolt will come right off. No cussing, drilling or other time wasters that will need to be done to get the rotor off....