Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Valve cover leak

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Old Sep 23, 2006 | 09:25 AM
  #1  
norm03s's Avatar
norm03s
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Valve cover leak

Went out to change spark plugs @ 49,300 and find #1 cylinder has oil in bottom of spark plug well. At the top I can see oil around outside of well.
This can only get worse.
Going in for warrenty work, anyone else have a leaking valve cover gasket?
 
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Old Sep 23, 2006 | 09:52 AM
  #2  
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Califzeph
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From: Citrus Heights, Ca.
Not on the MINI, but on every Dodge I ever owned. You can keep tightening down the valve cover, forever compressing the gasket, or get the gasket replaced. A good choice for you since it's under warranty still. The gasket is usually good for at least 100K miles. You must do a LOT of driving!
 
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Old Sep 23, 2006 | 10:25 AM
  #3  
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norm03s
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Tightening down

Isn't the cure for sure. The only way is replacement.
It is leaking from the top of the well, not real heavy but enought to wet the spark plug base. All the others are dry and the plugs still tight.
A July 29,2003 delivery with almost 50,000 isn't to bad, been fun since day one.
By the way #1 plug color looked real good.
Anyone else had to have valve cover gasket replaced???
 
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Old Sep 23, 2006 | 10:46 AM
  #4  
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Gromit801
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From: West French Camp, CA
Ok, time to dig out the old competition trick I used on my MGB. MGB's use a cork valve cover gasket, which leak, and tend to self destruct upon removal. In that instance, I used Permatex (#6 I think) to seal the gasket to the valve cover, and anti-seize compound on the side of the gasket that sealed to the cylinder head. Zero leaking, and the gasket didn't rip apart whenever I needed to pull the cover off.

With a Mini VC gasket, use anti-seize compound on both sides of the gasket. Anti-seize is thick enough to block oil leakage, and never hardens, and is very easy to reapply after removing the VC. Doesn't melt under engine heat either. Some SCCA road racers have used anti-seize on head gaskets (That's who I learned this from).

One more point: Never use a silicone based sealant on gaskets with direct contact to oil. Oil will eat the silicone, leaving a stringy, leaking mess. I do not know if synthetics will have the same affect. Save the silicone for water pumps and thermostat housings. In oil areas, I use the pliable, non-hardening Permatex. The brown stuff, #6 I think the number is, but check that before buying.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2006 | 04:09 PM
  #5  
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norm03s
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Thanks for the tips but this is on MINI.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2006 | 06:07 PM
  #6  
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Gromit801
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From: West French Camp, CA
Originally Posted by norm03s
Thanks for the tips but this is on MINI.
The entire second paragraph of my post concerned Mini's.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2006 | 06:14 PM
  #7  
mitchman's Avatar
mitchman
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From: Kennewick, WA
Originally Posted by norm03s
Thanks for the tips but this is on MINI.
Did you even read his post? I thought it was very informative. What more do you want?

If your car is still under warranty, take it to the dealer. Shesh!
 
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Old Sep 24, 2006 | 06:32 PM
  #8  
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Rawhyde
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From: NW Georgia, USA
Basic mechanical techniques are applicable on MINIs even if first learned on Chevys, Fords, or even MGBs. Great post Gromit! I've never thought to use Anti-Seize on a gasket. I'll remember that one!

Rawhyde
 
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Old Sep 24, 2006 | 06:57 PM
  #9  
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Jeremy1026
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From: Baltimore, MD
thank god for warrentys huh. your best bet is to have it replaced, every quick fix is bound to fail sooner than a complete re-do
 
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Old Sep 24, 2006 | 07:09 PM
  #10  
Gromit801's Avatar
Gromit801
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From: West French Camp, CA
Originally Posted by Jeremy1026
thank god for warrentys huh. your best bet is to have it replaced, every quick fix is bound to fail sooner than a complete re-do
Not necessarily true. To use the anti-seize method, start with a new gasket, and it will last you longer than you can imagine.
 
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