View Poll Results: If you had mushrooming or a cracked strut mount please vote
mushrooming: stock suspension / 15" non-runflat tires
32
3.00%
mushrooming: stock suspension / 16" runflat tires
83
7.79%
mushrooming: stock suspension / 16" non-runflat tires
68
6.38%
mushrooming: stock suspension / 17" runflat tires
346
32.46%
mushrooming: stock suspension / 17" non-runflat tires
214
20.08%
mushrooming: stock suspension / 18" runflat tires
22
2.06%
mushrooming: stock suspension / 18" non-runflat tires
24
2.25%
mushrooming: lowering springs / 15" non-runflat tires
3
0.28%
mushrooming: lowering springs / 16" runflat tires
7
0.66%
mushrooming: lowering springs / 16" non-runflat tires
16
1.50%
mushrooming: lowering springs / 17" runflat tires
31
2.91%
mushrooming: lowering springs / 17" non-runflat tires
58
5.44%
mushrooming: lowering springs / 18" runflat tires
4
0.38%
mushrooming: lowering springs / 18" non-runflat tires
18
1.69%
cracked strut mount: stock suspension / 15" non-runflat tires
24
2.25%
cracked strut mount: stock suspension / 16" runflat tires
34
3.19%
cracked strut mount: stock suspension / 16" non-runflat tires
32
3.00%
cracked strut mount: stock suspension / 17" runflat tires
112
10.51%
cracked strut mount: stock suspension / 17" non-runflat tires
74
6.94%
cracked strut mount: stock suspension / 18" runflat tires
6
0.56%
cracked strut mount: stock suspension / 18" non-runflat tires
14
1.31%
cracked strut mount: lowering springs / 15" non-runflat tires
3
0.28%
cracked strut mount: lowering springs / 16" runflat tires
6
0.56%
cracked strut mount: lowering springs / 16" non-runflat tires
11
1.03%
cracked strut mount: lowering springs / 17" runflat tires
11
1.03%
cracked strut mount: lowering springs / 17" non-runflat tires
25
2.35%
cracked strut mount: lowering springs / 18" runflat tires
5
0.47%
cracked strut mount: lowering springs / 18" non-runflat tires
8
0.75%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 1066. You may not vote on this poll
Poll: Mushrooming/strut mount failure data collection
#601
Bad winter thaw and potholes created additional stress to an already stiff OEM set up.
Both strut mounts and windshield cracked. Windshield $500. Strut mounts ( $52 each. ) Decided to replace struts ( Bilstein B4, $92 each ) and lower control arm bushings ( $86 for left right set ) at the same time.
Labour $750
Both strut mounts and windshield cracked. Windshield $500. Strut mounts ( $52 each. ) Decided to replace struts ( Bilstein B4, $92 each ) and lower control arm bushings ( $86 for left right set ) at the same time.
Labour $750
#603
I also added new Potenza RE760 Sports and the car handles very well. Then 2000km later power steering pump goes, timing belt tensioner and exhaust. So I have taken the vehicle off insurance and parked it while I decide what to do. Rebuild to showroom condition or sell ?
Meantime I have purchased a "daily driver " 2011 Scion tC, six speed, 2.5 L, 180 HP / 173 ft.lb.
Meantime I have purchased a "daily driver " 2011 Scion tC, six speed, 2.5 L, 180 HP / 173 ft.lb.
#605
Ha !
I need the reliability of a Toyota if I am to own a BMW product.
I have owned Honda's, Subaru's and Toyota's. BMW products cost 3 x more to maintain. This is a certifiable fact based on all my records over the past 35 years of ownership.
At the moment I own 2 x Toyota and 1 x BMW. No way will I solely rely on BMW.
BMW is the "new British Leyland". 80 % in the garage but really fun to drive for 20% of the time.
I need the reliability of a Toyota if I am to own a BMW product.
I have owned Honda's, Subaru's and Toyota's. BMW products cost 3 x more to maintain. This is a certifiable fact based on all my records over the past 35 years of ownership.
At the moment I own 2 x Toyota and 1 x BMW. No way will I solely rely on BMW.
BMW is the "new British Leyland". 80 % in the garage but really fun to drive for 20% of the time.
#606
#607
Indeed. Treat online posts with skepticism
Buyer Beware !
A recent survey has found that German cars, including Audi, BMW and VW, are among the worst when it comes to engine failure. Mini is the third least reliable.
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/...ty-survey.html
Engine reliability - top 10 brands according to Warranty Direct
1. Honda (failure rate: 1 in 344)
2. Toyota (failure rate: 1 in 171)
3. Mercedes-Benz (failure rate: 1 in 119)
4. Volvo (failure rate: 1 in 111)
5. Jaguar (failure rate: 1 in 103)
6. Lexus (failure rate: 1 in 101)
7. Fiat (failure rate: 1 in 85)
8. Ford (failure rate: 1 in 80)
9. Nissan (failure rate: 1 in 76)
10. Land Rover (failure rate: 1 in 72)
Engine reliability - bottom 10 brands according to Warranty Direct
1. MG Rover (failure rate: 1 in 13)
2. Audi (failure rate: 1 in 27)
3. Mini (failure rate: 1 in 40)
4. Saab (failure rate: 1 in 40)
5. Vauxhall (failure rate: 1 in 41)
6. Peugeot (failure rate: 1 in 44)
7. BMW (failure rate: 1 in 45)
8. Renault (failure rate: 1 in 46)
9. Volkswagen (failure rate: 1 in 52)
10. Mitsubishi (failure rate: 1 in 59)
Buyer Beware !
A recent survey has found that German cars, including Audi, BMW and VW, are among the worst when it comes to engine failure. Mini is the third least reliable.
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/...ty-survey.html
Engine reliability - top 10 brands according to Warranty Direct
1. Honda (failure rate: 1 in 344)
2. Toyota (failure rate: 1 in 171)
3. Mercedes-Benz (failure rate: 1 in 119)
4. Volvo (failure rate: 1 in 111)
5. Jaguar (failure rate: 1 in 103)
6. Lexus (failure rate: 1 in 101)
7. Fiat (failure rate: 1 in 85)
8. Ford (failure rate: 1 in 80)
9. Nissan (failure rate: 1 in 76)
10. Land Rover (failure rate: 1 in 72)
Engine reliability - bottom 10 brands according to Warranty Direct
1. MG Rover (failure rate: 1 in 13)
2. Audi (failure rate: 1 in 27)
3. Mini (failure rate: 1 in 40)
4. Saab (failure rate: 1 in 40)
5. Vauxhall (failure rate: 1 in 41)
6. Peugeot (failure rate: 1 in 44)
7. BMW (failure rate: 1 in 45)
8. Renault (failure rate: 1 in 46)
9. Volkswagen (failure rate: 1 in 52)
10. Mitsubishi (failure rate: 1 in 59)
#608
#609
Good clarifying article here on Youtube:
He indicates that an older shock will often bottom out on a pothole or similar and then that will force the top of the now fully compressed shock hard into the top of the mount, cracking it.
So keeping old shock absorbers and putting in a new mount is not the solution, and he recommends new shocks/better shocks.
He indicates that an older shock will often bottom out on a pothole or similar and then that will force the top of the now fully compressed shock hard into the top of the mount, cracking it.
So keeping old shock absorbers and putting in a new mount is not the solution, and he recommends new shocks/better shocks.
#610
Where is the DIY after all these years??????
#611
My personal experience: I had badly mushrooming towers that required the "wood and hammer" fix before I could even mount the tower reinforcement plates. The mushrooming is, IMHO, a result of a combination of issues: pre-mature strut failure resulting in strut bearing failure. I've also noticed that the wheel hub probably need replacing (harmonic vibration/noise) as a result of the previous owners complete lack of care.
I didn't notice until after I bought the car (no wonder I got such a good "deal") that all four struts were leaking. I've already replaced the rear struts and am waiting on new strut bearings to replace the front so I only have to take it apart once.
#612
When I first purchased my (new to me) Mini S, I had been reading everything I could find about the car and joined this site. Needless to say I was aware of the many problem areas that come with owning one. So in order to be proactive one of my choices was to upgrade the suspension by replacing the shocks and camber plates with the beefier ireland fixed and adding the ecs tower plates to the tops ensuring that I would not have to deal with it. I do have 18" pirelli runflats and thankfully because of the Konis and the plates she rides 100 times better than stock and no more slamming noises over small bumps in the road. It is great threads like this that offer information about the vehicles we love that help us make an educated decision about how to react and rectify.
#613
#614
I have 260k and now have the ECS STP ( holding up great ), has some mushrooming before the plates all together on the passenger side, before i have the M7 ones on ( held up well also ). So that was like at 50K. 17" SS+ 2005 MCC, before the plates
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#615
#616
I blame , trying to miss pot holes on the driver side and the passenger side is closer to the shoulder of the road which tends to have more pot holes and bumps.
17" wheels and Sport or sport plus sets up a pretty stiff suspension.
17" wheels and Sport or sport plus sets up a pretty stiff suspension.
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MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#618
Yea, with 260K i racked up allot of test ground with the plates. Dang pot holes come out of now where , its even worse when people bought there Gen 1 MINIs new an they had stock 17" runflats, that adds even more stiffness.
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Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#619
Good clarifying article here on Youtube:
He indicates that an older shock will often bottom out on a pothole or similar and then that will force the top of the now fully compressed shock hard into the top of the mount, cracking it.
So keeping old shock absorbers and putting in a new mount is not the solution, and he recommends new shocks/better shocks.
He indicates that an older shock will often bottom out on a pothole or similar and then that will force the top of the now fully compressed shock hard into the top of the mount, cracking it.
So keeping old shock absorbers and putting in a new mount is not the solution, and he recommends new shocks/better shocks.
I think the scenario is slightly different: shock is worn/leaking and allows the suspension to bottom hard on the bumpstop putting extra force on the upper strut mount. So in the end the answer is the same, don't continue to use worn out shocks!
#620
The poll data is interesting. The combination of run flats and 17" rims jumps out as over-represented in the sample, resulting in the most frequent occurrences of both mushrooming and cracking.
I wish I knew the sales history by rim size for the Mini, as without that as a means to normalize the data it's hard to know whether this combination is simply the most popular, or whether it indicates something meaningful.
It's tempting to observe that the 17" rim is usually wearing a short sidewall (like a /45) and that the run-flats are also very stiff by design. If these factors align to produce high forces at the strut mounting point perhaps that's a credible hypothesis for the data.
Hindsight's a b*tch - this is a great poll, and I wish the OP included year (but hell, analysts ALWAYS want more data).
Cheers,
Charlie
I wish I knew the sales history by rim size for the Mini, as without that as a means to normalize the data it's hard to know whether this combination is simply the most popular, or whether it indicates something meaningful.
It's tempting to observe that the 17" rim is usually wearing a short sidewall (like a /45) and that the run-flats are also very stiff by design. If these factors align to produce high forces at the strut mounting point perhaps that's a credible hypothesis for the data.
Hindsight's a b*tch - this is a great poll, and I wish the OP included year (but hell, analysts ALWAYS want more data).
Cheers,
Charlie
#623
You can sometimes tell by just looking at the top mount. If you look at pics on here of deformed mounts enough, you can tell.
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#624
#625
Although I have had allot of experience with metric values relative to fluids and weights, I think of thickness/distance in good old USA terms. The OEM plates are about 1/16" thick where most of the aftermarkets are about 1/8". The OEMs are steel whereas the aftermarkets are steel or aluminum. I have aluminum camber plates plus an aluminum tower brace/bar.
What brand coilovers are you thinking about?
and you have some nice mods
What brand coilovers are you thinking about?
and you have some nice mods