Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

changing the oil - MCSa '06

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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 12:44 PM
  #1  
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sbpwjm
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changing the oil - MCSa '06

All,

I did a few quick searches and didn't find the answer I was looking for - so here goes:

We should be picking up our new '06 MCSa DS/W tomorrow. I was wondering if there were any "tools" I should be picking up from the dealer regarding simple maintenance items, like oil changes. I've always done my own and even theough MINI does them for free.... I'll probably do mine more often than they suggest and might not even take the car an hour away just for service like an oil change.

I have a "cup" like device that I use when changing the oil on my Volvo S40. Changing the oil without that cup is problematic. Any tools/tricks/tips for changing a MINI's oil?

Thanks so much!

sbp
 
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 01:06 PM
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Crashton
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Welcome to NAM & congrats on a getting a MINI. The MINI is an easy car to change oil on. I use a set of Rhino ramps to gain access to the drain plug. The only thing that you need & probably don't have is a 36mm socket for the oil filter. The filter is a canister type with a 36mm hex on top. I bought my socket at PepBoys for $10. You'll find it with the other filter wrenches there. It was marked as a BMW filter wrench.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ead.php?t=4928

http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_2574.htm
 
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 01:48 PM
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Amen to the 36mm socket. There are two types that are generally available - 1/2 and 3/8 inch drive. The 1/2 drive is more robust, which in the MINI's case, means more of a challenge to maneuver in the tight confines between the engine and the firewall where the filter housing is located. I got a 3/8 inch drive 36mm socket off eBay for something like $15 plus shipping (~$18 total?). Another reason to get the 3/8 inch drive socket is that torque wrenches in 3/8 inch drive have lower settings (which is required for the filter cover). The first time you try to remove the filter housing, it is a bit of a challenge to figure out how to get it out of the tight confines (especially since the old oil is still in the housing and wanting to drip all over everything...). There is a way to get the housing out, though. (It is hard for me to describe; it is just one of those things that for me is easier to just do....) Once you figure out how to remove the filter housing, everything else is simple to do.

Hope this helps.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 02:27 PM
  #4  
Blind Dog Daddy
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Another tip for oil filter replacement

Another tip for oil filter change: If the filter housing cap is loosened but not removed, the oil will drain to the pan. I loosen my filter cap before I raise the car and remove the drain plug. This allows time for the filter housing to drain, making for a tidier filter replacement. While the oil pan is draining, you can then finish removing the filter top and change with minimal oil spillage. In the photo RandyBMC posted of the oil canister top the cut-away threads are made for this venting process.



 
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 06:11 PM
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I was wondering why the threads were like that. Thanks for clearing that up. It's great how you can crack the filter loose & let it drain. Really does help keep the mess down.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 07:21 PM
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Letting the filter drain prior to removing it doesn't drain all of the old oil - look at the filter in the picture....
 
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 07:27 PM
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No it doesn't, but it does drain enough for it to not leak all over the place one you remove it. TIP >>> Use a shop rag to hold the filter so if it does piddle a wee bit O oil it won't make a mess.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 05:57 AM
  #8  
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Yes but...

Originally Posted by caminifan
Letting the filter drain prior to removing it doesn't drain all of the old oil - look at the filter in the picture....
Also putting an old towel under the canister helps....keeps my garage from the "EXXON VALDEZ LOOK!"
The Mini is parked where I used to keep my old Porsche 911SC so there is a real oil staining on the concrete anyway! Great car it was.... and love to leak oil! Only held 12 quarts too!
 
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 07:27 AM
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You mentioned you have a 2006 automatic Cooper S. For 2006 the Cooper S with automatic transmission has a plastic duct that goes from the power steering fan to the lower bumper. Have no idea why only the automatic models. I heard one owner say that the duct needs to be removed so you can get to the drain plug.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 08:07 AM
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Yes, the 2005 MCSa also has this plastic duct from the bumper to the power steering fan. Looking at it, the duct will need to be removed to gain access to the oil drain plug. I changed the oil on my '06 MCS (no power steering fan duct) and found that the entire process was very easy. Drove up on my Rhino ramps, removed the oil drain plug, and cracked the oil filter canister cover - let it drain for a few minutes and no oil spills from the filter when I fully removed it. I used a 1/2 drive 36MM with a short ratchet - didn't really see the need to use a torque wrench for this.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Funk_Flex
You mentioned you have a 2006 automatic Cooper S. For 2006 the Cooper S with automatic transmission has a plastic duct that goes from the power steering fan to the lower bumper. Have no idea why only the automatic models. I heard one owner say that the duct needs to be removed so you can get to the drain plug.
2005 MCSa's have the duct as well. And, yes, you do need to remove the duct to remove the drain bolt. But the removal effort is like something around 10 - 15 seconds (4 screws). Maybe 5 seconds with a power driver.
 
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