Mini did step up and at least pay for the new SC for my car. I'm really nervous as to how long it's going to last now since my car only had 43k when it failed. I thought when I bought my Mini that I was getting a reliable BMW built car but I have had a lot of issues with the car since I bought it new in 2007. Keeping my fingers crossed no other huge repair bills are in my future!

 

Ditto. After owning the car for just a few weeks and learning more about Mini's, like a $400 quote for just changing the oil pan gasket...I am looking at owning the car for a year or so and then selling it. My 2003 S has only 70K miles and thought I would keep it for years but maybe not. I am hoping my opinion changes with time and that it holds up well. I do like the car. I goes like hell. Theres something about doing 80 in 3rd gear. I have never experienced this before but I sure like it!!

Before I boxed up the old supercharger to send back for my core charge, I spun the pulley and you could hear the clanking of the internals. The new one was quiet and smooth when I took it out of the box. Good to know I didnt swap out a part that wasn't broke. Small consolation.

 

Hey all,
This has got to be the best thread i ever read on any auto forum.

I feel pretty sure I understand every wrinkly variable in the Supercharger rattle I am getting from my newly bought 2003MCS.

Before I set off on my path to recovery I want to unhook the belt and run the engine to see if the rattle disappears. This strikes me as the best first stage diagnosis of failing SC gears.

Is it as simple as pop the belt and start the car ?
I read somewhere that this will cause a "MIM"?? or MIN or something??

What is that - how do I rectify it afterwards.

thanks,
Monza!

oh btw, First Post.

 

There is a tool you can buy from various places. I just got one off of ebay for about $60. Its an ell shaped thing with a handle on one end. I haven't used it yet to get the belt off. Like you I haven't yet figured out if I have to take the entire belt off to test the supercharger or just disengage the tentioner. I need to search the forum some more.

 

Yeh its the MIL(?) that I dont understand.
I think its some kind of error code.

Researching...

 

What is an MIL - and how do I cure it when I get it?

tx,
Monza.

 

I think he means the "check engine" light.

"MIL" collides with a different acronym space in my head: Mother In Law. Sadly, there is no cure if you get a bad one....

C ya,
Dutch

 

MIL = Check Engine Light. If the belt is removed, it will light up and you'll need a scanner (OBD-II type) to clear it. Autozone has them or you can buy one from ebay. There are different levels of scanner at various prices; I use a basic $30 scanner (ebay) to scan/clear clear codes.

To remove the belt, a tensioner tool is needed. I got mine from ebay... use keywords "belt tensioner tool + mini cooper s". Price is about $50-$60. Get a Bentley manual for your model year from ebay or amazon so you know what to do. You don't need to put the front-end in service mode to remove the belt.

FYI... when the belt is disconnected, the water-pump (connected to the S/C) will not spin. Don't let the engine idle for too long to avoid over-heating... more than 15 minutes from a cold-start. You have plenty of time to check the S/C if you know where the rattle is coming from.

 

Thanks Cadenza!
I guess I will be needing a scanner then.
I have the Bentley in transit. I will order the removal tool.

First up I am going to replace the Timing Chain Tensioner - if it still rattles I remove the belt...

Thanks for your reply.
Monza.

 

Thank you Charlie, and you were right indeed!

Here's the final updates that might be helpful to others:

2003/5 built R53, 79k miles:

KWIKPHYX is a scam. I've reported it to VISA company and got my money back after wasting two weeks of time.

Supercharger opened and found both the front and the back bearings were shot and making rattling noise. The worms are also scratched a bit because of the wobbling. However to my relief, the water pump gears are perfect probably because I've refilled the oil a while ago. Had it rebuilt with the best bearings and seals.

Replaced radiator (leaking when doing pressure test), radiator hoses, water pump and seals, and knock sensor.

Found another ticking noise from behind the engine when cold. Guess it was the valve timing chain tensioner, so replaced it as well. It is quiet now.

I took the car apart by myself and have put it back together now. It drives quite well, the supercharger after rebuilt seems is making a stronger boost sound and the maximum boost level is now around 15psi, from 13psi in the past.

 

this a database of knowledge Thanks for the tips and input

 

I'm surprised my 2002 R53 got up to 88k miles on the original supercharger. I got a rebuild off ebay from USsuperchargers for super cheap, like $750 -$300 for the core return. Great quality, worked like new. Changed to a 16% reduction pulley from WMW, new sparks, new thermostat from RMeuropean & gates waterpump.. 5000miles later, still freakin awesome. only problem now.. is the brown gunk in my coolant tank. :(

 

Brown milkshake in the coolant is NEVER a good sign. You may have a faulty head gasket, oil cooler. Have it checked ASAP.

 

started a new thread but could someone listen to this and possibly tell if it is the SC or not? thank you! I am going to park the MINI tell I figure this out.. It started rattling about two weeks ago and worse the last few days..

http://soundcloud.com/jack-simmons/m...-sound-5-23-12

st(d)ealer and local mechanic said nothing was wrong :/...

 

Step 1, Get a Mechanic's Stethoscope to help pinpoint the noise.

 

Great thanks I'll get it tomorrow.

 

I'm the original owner of an '03 MCS with 150k miles, have been reasonably active on this website for years, and have never heard of this nor noticed this thread until today. Pretty scary! Anyone have an idea what % of the cars have run into this problem? Obviously this is very serious, but I know several other early MCS owners who have well in excess of 100k miles with no supercharger or water pump issues at all. Have perhaps 10 or 20% of the cars run into this problem, or is this more like the power steering pump issue where almost no one has gone past 100k miles without having it replaced? One other question...if I made it to 150k miles with no supercharger issue, it is likely I will not have an issue going forward? Or am I just very lucky, and I should take a close look at my supercharger very very soon?

 

I'd change the oil with the appropriate SC oil.

I did around 150K and all was well but the oil level was very low. Crystal clear with no metal in either gear case, but very low.

It is not a hard job but it is a big job.

I am not a big fan of "lifetime fill".

 

Eric or anyone -

I was told by a machinist that using a primer creates a much stronger seal. However, it may be difficult to remove the covers later on. When used alone, Loctite 518 will remain a soft gasket. In conjunction with primer, it becomes a hard gasket that may require some force to remove later on. Some have resorted to using hammers on intake manifolds.

I'm about to switch out the SC with one that has a 15% pulley and will remove the PTO end for inspection and new seal. Although I like a better seal, I'm debating whether it's a good idea down the road should I need to open it up.

Any thoughts???

 

Anaerobic sealant or even high temp RTV will work.

Jeremy

 

I just did mine about 7 weeks ago. I used Permatex #2 non-hardening gasket-maker/sealant. I've been using that stuff since I was a teenager in the '70s, and it's never failed me.

C ya,
Dutch

 

At 91600 miles my water pump started squealing. Got it towed home. Replaced water pump... Same issue. ... Sprintex supercharger is in now. The screw on the M45 snags when turning by hand now. Thankfully no big chunks broke off the screw. No parts in the engine!! Caught it JUST in time. And did not overheat.

 

Talk about good luck!

C ya,
Dutch

 

Yes. Very lucky! Only problem is the belt keeps hopping on the new SC. Going to purchase a new one and put it on tonight.

 

Stock pulley or aftermarket? Alignment on the aftermarket pulleys can be a bit tricky. I had an M7 pulley and it kept trying to hop the belt until I pried against it to keep it all the way on the supercharger's input shaft while tightening the clamp screws. The clamping sleeve kept sliding when tightening the clamp screws. The Cravenspeed 17% that replaced it had no issues whatsoever, and has a nice hole in the middle to visually check that it's seated fully.

Good luck with that belt-hopping issue!

C ya,
Dutch