Stubborn as I am, I will ask anyway even though I think I have the answer.
Is there really NO way to service the water pump side without removing the front-end? The side where the oil dipstick tube is easy as pie, but how about servicing the other end by pulling just the intercooler?

 

Just got my car back from the repair shop. I ended up having Stiegemeier Porting do the rebuild. I also had them put a 15% pulley on at the same time as they did the full (Blower Porting, Front-Drive Rebuild, and Water Pump Drive Rebuild) service.

I'll keep you posted if I need to utilize their 1 year warranty.

 

I'm curious too. It looks like some have talked about it but none has done it.

From my own observation, the angle of tilt of the S/C as it's bolted onto the engine makes the fill-hole sits at the lowest angle. I doubt you can put more than an ounce in there using a syringe.

 

Brian G
How much did you pay for the job? Did you supply the pulley or did they have them.

Thanks

 

'06 MCSc with 33k.

Car is running strong but I've been wondering if the muted rattling sound I can hear through the SC horns (using a stethoscope) is normal. Removed the IC and found oil...

Pre Intercooler



Post Intercooler



Black soot (behind the A/C lines) around and below the PTO area



This area of the oil pan was clean 5000 miles ago...


...and one more



Other problems I found: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...t-muffler.html

 

Oil in the IC is pretty normal. I've noticed some soot on the front of my engine though (bites nails...)

 

I think a slight coating is okay but this is about an ounce of oil, not counting what is coated inside the IC or sucked through the intake. The oil comes from the front and/or rear reservoirs, leaking into the rotors and got sucked into the IC. Eventually, the reservoirs will become empty.

I also have a turbo-charged car and it had less oil (seeped through the turbo bearing seals) in the IC at 100k.

 

If I'm not mistaken, the oil also comes from the EGR system, hence the whole oil catch can market. If that all came from only the SC reservoir, I agree that's a big issue!

 

Correct. The MINI sucks oily air into the intake tract from the engine. It's not unusual to see a fair quantity of oil after 33K if the IC hasn't been cleaned out previously. But an ounce *may* be a precursor of something else.

The oil on the front / bottom of the engine is most likely a leaky crank position sensor o-ring. Many start seeping at about that mileage. Mine does.

 

Another thing to remember is that SC oil is very different from motor oil....and it is present in very small amounts...measured in ounces, as opposed to quarts. Due to this fact, an internal leak is unlikely to be detected, but an external leak MAY leave a telltale stain around one of the 2 drive areas. Many leaks though seems to be more of the weap varrieties that may never drip enough to stain... But with 2-4 ounces of oil, a drip every 1000 miles would still result in failure.
Just looking at my spare sc, and estimating the install angle, I think if you were to do a sc lube job, it would be prudent to unbolt it. This also would give you a chance to "freshen up" the gaskets, clean out some carbon around the intakes, etc....money well spent on a performance car, especially if you plan on keeping it for a bit, or want maximum performance.
If $$ is the only concern, then just unbolt, fill, and rebolt it...keeping in mind that the with +3 hours of assemby/reassembly, the " might as well" list gets very compelling....got a lot of miles....might want to do a new waterpump....it does become a silppery slope, but it comes down to $$ now, to gain future relalilbility.

 

It currently has 33k but the engine bay had a complete clean-up at 28k... I mean clean enough that you can eat from it. At that time, there was no oil/soot visible at the oil pan area. I didn't look closely higher up at the PTO area because I wasn't aware that a leak could also come from there... until I found this thread.

Anyway, I'll have the dealer look at it.

 

That sensor o-ring will definitely seep the amount of oil that you're seeing there in that amount of time.

 

The noise I have from my 04 MCS is nothing at all like this, and does not happen at Idle. I can hear it on the highway but not all the time. I also shut the car down doing 70 MPH on the highway (at 2 am when no one was around) and pushed the clutch in and put the car in Neutral, and I still heard the rattle, from the drivers side, seems like right under the air vent, or maybe in the wheel well, any ideas what this could be?

 

Clutch?

 

You're referring to #9?

I remember reading from another thread that the front end must be removed to access the sensor. Is this true?

 

Maybe an cv joint/Axel or even a wheel bearing. Anything that still spins when the motor is stopped and the car is moving.

 

I do not believe it is the CV Joint as I have had those replaced, but A wheel bearing that is starting to go maybe a place to start.
I need to get this fixed before the Dragon as I dont want to be a 800 Miles away and have to worry about it.

 

I am working on a friends 2003 Mini Cooper S 74k purchased used. When I first received the vehicle it was not drivible, the clutch was no longer working. I removed the engine and trans as an assy to find the clutch material was gone. I replaced the clutch, pressure plate,O/T bearing and flywheel. all was well for a while but it developed a rattling noise coming from the front - to - rear side of the engine I thought maybe it was an alignment problem between the engine and trans. I also noted that the noise seems to go away when the clutch is depressed or push-in. Well the owner needed the vehicle so he said he would bring it back. It's back and now on a cold to warm engine start a bearing or grinding noise is heard. Today I will be pulling the front end back off to check the fluid in the super charger I will let you all know what I find. I also found apost on youtube from someone on super charger noise. ( it sounds like this mini's problem) - MC1Auto

 

If the noise goes away when the clutch is presses...most likely not the SC...good to look to prevent future problems... As stated before. Gm sells the SC oil.

 

Actually, I had my car in for a clutch problem (same problem as above - material was completely wiped off the plate). They repaired the clutch and I picked the car up and drove off. Strange noise coming from the engine bay that seemed to lessen when I depressed the clutch. At first I thought the new clutch might have to "seat", or something... but it kept making the noise. I made a U-turn and went right back to the shop . They scratched their heads and kept the car for a couple of days - tore the engine apart and found the gears gone in the SC/water pump power transfer. I don't equate the clutch to the SC going out ... just a coincidence ... thinking back I remember hearing the "dragging chain" sound for a while.
I picked up a used SC through a guy on NAM (with a reduction pulley thrown in) and haven't had a problem, with my SC, in 65,000 miles (knocking wood furiously).

 

Ok, removed the front end today to gain access to supercharger. removed water pump to gain access to the drain/fill plug to gear case drive for the water pump and found that it does have oil inside. it looks like it needs changed but I do not belive that it is the source of the vehicles noise. Just to recap ( I had to tow this vehicle to my shop cause the clutch was so far gone ) when I removed the transmission I found that the clutch material looked like a ball of steel wool in the transmission case. It was also stuck in the pressure plate causing the fingers to be jammed. I cleaned the case replaced fly wheel,pressure plate ,disc and O/T bearing. Reinstlled the trans/engine assy. topped off the tranny fluid and test drove. And this is when I noticed the noise. Rattling noise located around engine to trans area . today after checking the supercharger for oil I double checked the engine and trans alignment ( It looks good No gaps,soild ) I think that when the clutch was going out the owner may have toated a bearing or two. Note : the noise diminishes when clutch pedal is pushed in ( anyone got any other ideas? ) or know where I can find A good used transmission? or who Can Install new beraings? Thanks - MC1Auto

 

Did you replace the flywheel with a an oem dual mass? New or used? Rattling that disappears once the clutch is disengaged is the dual mass flywheel.

 

No I did not use the standard dual mass flywheel I purchased a kit from clutch masters / came with flywheel ,flywheel bolts, clutch ,pressure plate and O/T bearing. why do you ask ( problems with soild flywheel unit?)

 

Common problem with the dual mass flywheel. Rattles until the clutch is disengaged.

 

I had done some research on the dual mass unit and had found the same issue..... that is why I installed a solid flywheel assy. I still think that the problem is a bearing in the trans. I was just out in the shop looking at it I removed the accessory belt to check the bearings in the pulley's ...the tensioner pulley feals a little rough. but not that bad I have seen alot worse. everything else ( pulley-wise seems ok ) also found power steering pump leaking at the case.