After blowing out a cup of dust and sanding the armature, mine worked fine. The brushes were almost worn to nothing though. I put it all back together and it worked for about two weeks. Now I begin the quest for new brushes! Anybody ever replaced them?

 

Well after reading through this whole thread from front to back I've seen a couple posts like that resemble the same issues I am having. I had a what I thought was a bad power steering pump. My issue was my power steering would work intermittently which eventually became worse where I had a on/off/on/off as your where turning the wheel. It would also cut out randomly all together without warning which was kind of dangerous and still is. So this weekend I decided to replace the pump (with a rebuilt ZF Friedrichshafen AG pump). Thanks to all of your write ups on how to do this the replacement went pretty much without incident. After finishing and cycling the steering back and forth to remove the air I thought I had it licked. So off I went on my test drive and still have the same problem. I thought there must be some more air in the system and that it would work it's way out but I just returned from a 3 hour roundtrip ride and still the same. The electrical connections looked good to the pump and the pump is running. Did anyone with this problem find out a solution? I know a couple people here said they had this problem but I didn't see them repost with a definitive cause and solution. Maybe I got a bad rebuilt. Don't know if I should try another one and see if that is it. I hate to have to redo this job, but I think at this point I'm probably going to tear it back out to see if I missed something.

 

my initial pump that i purchased from a rebuild vendor was bunk, they sent me a another one and I have been problem free ever since.

 

I think you may have the problem I did. I asked about it and got the standard "your pump is fracked" responses.

For me it was the lower steering column assembly.

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...79&hg=32&fg=30

One axis of the lower u-joint was completely frozen and gave the steering the feeling of assist being on/off depending on where the wheel was turned.

I diagnosed it definitively with the car elevated on jack-stands (front wheels off the ground) and it had the same lumpy feeling with the car not running.

Bolt 4/nut 5 was really unpleasant to get at. After some recent work I would say that removing the battery box may be a better way to get at that bolt readily.

http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/07/84/61

Heck the TIS doesn't even show a photo instead a computer model it's so hard to see and get your hand at.

The rubber parts are a bit tricky to put back together too. There's a shield that the column fits through that has to fit into a slot in the funnel shaped piece of rubber (6) before you snap it into the firewall opening.

 

Thanks jari8378 I will probably go that route once I check out anyheck's suggestion and diagnostic he recommends. I was thinking it was electrical possibly but maybe not. It seems worse when the car is cold but now is bad most of the time. Thank you both for your time, I'll report back when I figure it out.

 

Just wanted to add my name to the thread of owners with power steering pump issues. Our 2002 Cooper with 93,000+ has been having intermittant trouble for the last few years. But I think it's finally finished deciding and has just thrown it in.
It's never cut out DURING driving, but has come back on while driving.
After reading most of this thread, I think I'll have our mechanic look at the fan or just putting in a refurbished one. The fan cutting out is something I never related to the issue, but now I think of it, it does go on and off.
It's really a shame, because there's nothing else wrong with it (not since the new transmission anyway). Now we just want to get it steering so we can use it as a trade-in or sell it to a wholesaler for refurbishment or parts.

 

Just been reading through this and I'm still unsure of what's wrong with my min:

So a couple of days ago I started up my mcs and as I was pulling out of a parking space I felt a notchy kinda feeling through the steering - it did it a couple of times as i went from lock to lock and then it seemed ok. Was fine the next day, then as I was going around a roundabout yesterday I noticed a notchy feel again, and then again a couple of minutes later as I parked up. Today as I parked at work there was no notchy feeling but a slight groaning noise as i went from right to left. I popped out to the carpark at lunch and tried turning the wheel without starting the ignition - no notchy feeling but the creak/groan was there, mainly just to the left of centre. I then started the ignition and no creak and no notchy feeling.

Initially I was thinking it was the pump - the notchy feeling being the pump being slow to get upto pressure. But it doesn't explain the groan/creak.

I checked the fluid and it's fine. The pump whines in its usual way, it doesn't run on after turning the ignition off, the steering is maybe a little heavier than it used to be but not dramatically.
I got the car serviced about 6 months ago and the guy there said he thought the high pressure line was weeping. So about 2 months ago I needed the clutch replacing so I took it to a local specialist and asked that while he did the clutch (and rear subframe bushes) he replace the high pressure line. When i went to collect it he said the line was fine, the fluid there was a light oil leak from the rocker cover and not steeering fluid. As he was an ex BMW master techy and came highly recommended I have no reason to doubt him.
It's a 2005 mcs with 75k miles.

Any thoughts guys?

Thanks

 

I think initially I would suspect low fluid which would produce the "groaning" as air bubbles ran through the pump. One good way of "purging air" is to jack the front wheels both off the ground, top off the fluid and run the steering lock to lock several times. It would be a good time to lay underneath while someone else turns the wheel and visually inspect the steering rack mounts and the pump mounts for any movement as well as listen to the pump up close, preferably with a stethascope. You mentioned, however, that your fluid level was fine. This is just something to rule out.

 

On an interesting note, I did just speak recently with a major rebuilder in NY who does these pumps for many large retailers. He mentioned that, like the rebuilder in MA, they only rebuild the hydraulic end. I asked about rebuilding my electrical end as my brushes are worn to nubs and my commutator is worn. He said that the since the brush holders are riveted to the plastic endplate of the motor, which has the integral wiring sockets on it also, it becomes cost prohibitive to rebuild as this all needs to be replaced as a unit. Add that to having to press the commutator off and replace it also, and he is up to $500.00 in parts, his cost! He routinely throws away the pumps when they come in with worn or broken electric ends (good-bye core charge). He threw away 7 of them last week. Be careful ordering rebuilt pumps, the electrical end apparently is never rebuilt! and good luck finding a new pump for older model MINIs for a reasonable price!

 

Take a look at my earlier post about the lower steering column universal joints binding.

I wasn't able to feel the problem without the car running wheels on the ground as the steering is too heavy without any assist.

If you get the front wheels off the ground, then the steering is light enough with the car off to feel/not feel the lumpy/notchy feeling of a frozen up universal joint.

Good luck.

 

Just to report back Anyheck was spot on! It was the steering shaft u joints the bottom was locked up tighter than a bulls *** . Well you know!

 

I'm really glad to be able to help.

 

Great thread - I think I have a pump failure but not sure - when the PS went out the 'battery' light came on. Owners manual says alt could be not charging the batt, but could that also effect PS pump? My non-dealer guy could not figure it out - just drove back and now ABS, Tract and TPS lights are all on and the radio shorts out. Anyone hear of a service ebullition on the main wiring harness? It is a 05' S with 75K.

 

When the alternator voltage drops,the pump turns off...so you might have a failing alternator...
The other items may/may not be related to the cars electrical system having issues..

 

My power steering pump just failed yesterday on my 2005 MCS. It has only 62k miles. The local dealer is asking almost $2K to replace pump and fan. This really makes me want to dump this car. It is a very fun car but the cost and reliability of parts that should last at least 120K miles are pushing me away from buying another Mini.

Just venting.

 

Just to add to the list.
The power steering pump failed the other day while my daughter was driving. (Well she was parked, then came the call " Dad why is the steering wheel stuck???" and of course a big WTF from Dad.)
Dad off to the rescue!! and yes after 101700 miles on 2005 MCS it's the power steering pump that failed (and the damn fan too).
Took it to my local mechanic. he charged me $1075.00 to change out the pump and the fan. New parts. 24 hours later and it's back on the road.
From what I am seeing here you can't beat that with a stick.

This job was better left to the pros, I will stick to changing the oil.

 

Also to add to the list.
The pump in my 2002 R50 gave up the ghost by running on after shutting off the engine. I pulled the power plug off and drove it without power assist. Yes its hard but doable but dont let your wife try to drive it.
Based on the reviews, I avoided getting a rebuilt one and so I ordered a new pump from Max for $585 and replaced it myself on a Saturday afternoon. Took 2 hours complete. A little tight but very easy overall if your mechanically inclined. Steering now works great and you can hardly hear it. No more of that annoying whine. Personally, I think new is the only way to go. A rebuilt pump would of cost me $300 from my closest rebuilder which is in Toronto and who knows how long that would last. At least with new, I should be good for another 10 years.

 

I'm on the list too. '05 R53 38K on the ODO. I parked my vehicle, and heard the groan of the PS Pump on after the vehicle was off... I was fortunate enough to know what the sound was, and disconnected my battery before it did any electrical damage.

I followed guides on message boards and ended up buying a reman from BBA Remanufacturing, and did a "swap" with them. I also followed another guide and found the fan for MUCH cheaper than OEM. I am buying the hose / snorkel for more airflow to alleviate further issues.

Altogether, I did the job for about $400 and about 3 hrs labor.... its really not hard to do.

so, I got off really cheap compared to others... but, there was no way I was going to spend the $1800 I was quoted at some local shops.

 

I know this is for the power steering pump, but has anyone had any trouble with their power steering rack? mine is pretty much destroyed from leaking for so long with the previous owner :(

 

Hi, All. In case any of you are still here from back then, I used to be LynnEl. Iv'e been out of the room for several years. Anyway, I have a 2004 Mini Cooper. I have experienced the dreaded power steering failure issue. And it was no fun when it happened going through the slalom on the Ute Pass toward Pikes Peek. Well, it turns out that the cooling fan fuse blew, causing the power steering pump to fail. You would think if they are going to fuse such a thing, they would also install some kind of warning light on the dash to let you know it's blown. My 2010 Mazda3 had such a warning light. On the positive side, my warranty company paid almost the whole cost.

 

One could add a ~1k resistor and an LED across the fuse and mount that in a visible place as a warning light. The LED should only illuminate when the fuse has blown.

This is how the illuminated-when-blown fuses work.

 

Well guys I pulled it off! From the help on this excellent forum and the over the top posting on how to replace the power steering pump and fan on my 2003 MINI. The project when well and with the newer pump no more pump whine like the old one, thanks to all that posted and a big on this post>>> http://www.billswebspace.com/MiniR53PSPFanDuctDIY.htm
<<< Nice job!!! AL.

 

Sweet! I know my day will come...

 

Do you homework on pricing parts. I beat up the parts manager at a MINI dealer and got the same as I would have on line. Just be nice, direct, to the point on seeing if they want to deal or instead of losing a sale and getting you into the dealership, AL.

 

Does anyone know where the PS rebuild kits can be located or new parts can be found or blueprints can be viewed or if the bearing housing is actually oval when new?
My son and I decided to fix the PS pump. He removed it and I took it apart and blew out the brush sediment. I then proceed to the pump/bearing area. The pump bearing area looked ok accept the bearing housing was oval instead of round. I believe this is a problem but had no solution because I could not find any rebuild kits. We installed and it worked for 1 week but it failed and now only works at start up for 5 minutes.
Does anyone know where the PS rebuild kits can be located or new parts can be found or blueprints can be viewed or if the bearing housing is actually oval when new?
Thanks form all your posts!