I started having this problem the day after I got the car, but wasn't sure if it was an idiosyncracy with the car or something I was doing wrong... but sometimes when I get in my car, push down the clutch and brake and turn the key it doesn't start. No click or anything, just nothing. after that I can't try to start it again until I return the key to the off position. I've tried changing when I press down on the clutch and brake, put it in neutral with the parking break on. I've tried switching keys and the same thing happens. I thought maybe I wasn't waiting long enough after turning the key to on before starting it so I tried waiting 30+ seconds and the same thing happens. Just about when I'm ready to give up the key works... but not with any consistant variable to say what/if I'm doing something wrong. What do you think?

I've only had the car for 9 days so hopefully I won't have to take it into the dealer... but if I have to I will.

 

Freakin MINI and their software programming.

There was a similar "cold start" problem back in 2002 that plagued the early build MINIs (NOTE: I'm not saying this is the same problem, just similar in that it happens at start up). It was all tied to MINI's software programming. It got so bad that on some MINIs it took 4 or sometimes 5 attempts to start the car before it would turn over.

Sorry. No experience with an '06 MCS though.

 

In the old days before cars went all electronic, this would probably be caused by a bad ignition switch (where you put the key to start the car). The remedy is to replace it. In the old days, this usually meant having a separate key for ignition and doors if you were too cheap to buy a whole lock set or have a locksmith do it for you. I imagine a MINI dealer would key the replacement ignition so it would match the original. If it is a bad ignition switch, it is also possible that the engine will cut out (turn off) while you are actually driving, so this could be a safety issue as well.

Good luck.

 

I have an 06 MCS for 3 months and no problems so far. I'm able to start it between 15-90 degree boston weather. I would it bring it back if it happens again.

 

darn, I was afraid that taking it back to the dealer would be the answer. This month is going to be overly busy for me so I may just deal with it until either (A) it won't start at all - hello roadside assistance or (B) I have time available to make an appointment for service and drop it off/pickup loaner car.

 

TRW - - This may be worth trying:

Remember that there is a chip in each of your keys that reacts when you get it close to the ignition switch. The car will not start unless it successfully recognizes the appropriate chip.

With the driver's door open, you "SHOULD" be able to simply hold the fat part of the key up next to the ignition switch and hear a 'gong' sound indicating the car is sensing the proximity of the key while the door is ajar. Try each of the 3 factory keys you have. If, while the car is not starting, the gong fails to chime while using any of your keys, then the proximity sensor is not working properly. If only one key fails to make the gong go off, then that key may have a bum chip, and the others are OK and should start the car.
.

 

3 keys? We have two keys and one wallet key which I doubt has a sensor in it as it supposedly will only open the car but not start it.

Were we supposed to get 3 keys? We just picked it up a few weeks ago.

 

ok... It did it last night so this morning I tried the other key thinking it was the key... but it still did it this morning. This afternoon I tried leaving the door open and sure enough it dinged when the key was close... but didn't start right up. Instead I just tried it a few times and on about the 5th click it started. when I came back from lunch to go back to work it just started on the first try. I'm wondering if maybe there is a dead spot on the starter or something. that or maybe it has something to do with how cold the car is. I'm going to try to collect a few more cycles worth of results and then give the dealer a call.

 

I would vote for a flaky neutral safety switch - I don't know where it is on the MCS but the purpose is to make sure you're in neutral -OR- have the clutch depressed when starting the car.

 

FINDUDE Said : The 3rd key I am referring to - the 'Wallet' or Valet key - does indeed have a chip inside it, and is identical in function to the other 2 fancy keys except there is no 'Remote Locking' capability.

It's easy to prove - open the door and hold your Wallet key near the ignition switch - it will sound the chime just like the other 2 keys. It even opens the glove box, which I find kindof odd .
.

 

weee, I found a new play thing. I didn't know about this.

 

Are you sure you have the clutch pedal completely depressed? As the manual says..."A lockout prevents the engine from starting if the clutch is not depressed". Just a thought. I once couldn't get a Honda Accord started for the same reason.

 

yes, the pedal is all the way to the floor... the hand brake is on and the transmission in neutral. This morning it started right up... but I made sure to leave the key in the ignition from the time I sat in the car... instead of after my seat belt is in and everything. I'm not sure why this would be, but that's what it's doing.

also, last night it took 4 attempts when I was getting ready to go home. I'm starting to wonder if maybe it takes longer for it to communicate with the key during the cold weather.

 

Nope, weather should be a non-issue - the car should start any time you want it to.

My vote also goes for a faulty or maladjusted clutch or neutral safety switch. Next time it acts up, make sure you JAM that clutch pedal into the carpet. If that doesn't work, cycle the clutch pedal up and down a few times. If you still have problems, it's time for a dealer visit, I'm afraid. . .

 

I just wanted to give everyone an update in case this happens to any other new owners down the line. I think I solved the problem by having the key in the ignition for a few seconds before turning the key to on and starting the car. My guess is that I was interrupting the "handshake" going on between the key and the transponder in the ignition switch when I turned the key prematurely. I think I was actually just inserting key, turning to on and start without any delay at all. I'm not sure if my car has a longer/more complex "handshake" than others or what makes it do this... but at least I have a work-around. all I do differently is insert the key in the ignition before putting my seatbelt on and no problems for about 10-15 cycles. I will be emailing the service manager at my dealer just to let him know of the situation should I have any further ignition switch problems down the line.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions! it allowed me to rule out a lot of possible causes systematically!