Thanks caminifan, I'm going to do exactly that.

 

Yesterday I had my local independent mechanic replace both of my strut mounts (one cracked, one done as preventative maintenance) and fix a minor mushrooming condition.

I showed him this photo of the M7 plates and he expressed concern that the stock studs are not long enough to protrude through the nut. He didn't feel that it would be "prudent" to mount these plates without replacing the studs with longer ones to ensure that the nuts are fully engaged on the threads, because their strength would be diminished if the plate was mounted as shown in the photo.

Certainly it is a quick and easy fix to use the stock hardware, but I'm left wondering if it is really a good idea to mount these plates as shown. As I am very interested in making my very first purchase from M7, I need to know more. . . .

Has anyone else had this concern? Has anyone replaced the stock studs with longer ones? Does anyone know if the studs can be replaced without complete disassembly of the suspension?

 

Yep, this will be weaker than having longer studs and a 1/2" Al plate to bolt too, but you don't need all that strength. Also, the area around the bolts is well supported by the rest of the plate structure.

So yes, it could be stronger, but as done it will be much stronger than the stock configuration.

Matt

 

I was concerned with the bolts loosening up after some time so I marked mine when I installed the plates 7K miles back. All 6 bolts are still in the same spot

 

Matt,

The concern is different than the one you've addressed. It's not that the plate being counterbored isn't strong enough.

The concern, mentioned above has to do with having enough threads for proper engagement with the SRP and the stock studs. The threaded section of the studs, like most bolts, tapers toward the end. This makes it easier to start the nut on the threads. Because of the tapered threaded region on studs/bolts, standard practice is generally to have 2-3 threads showing beyond the nut, so that the nut is engaging full threads, not the tapered region.

In order for the SRP to work, when a large load is applied from below through the strut tower, all of the vertical load has to be resisted by the threads of the stud, to hold the SRP in place.

This was part of the reason I removed my SRP's when I had the stock strut mounts. I now use my SRP's with camber plates that have longer studs, so I have just over two threads showing beyond the nut.

Dave

 

Thanks Dave.

Since my MINI is fixed now, I think I will keep things as they are for now. It took 58k miles for this problem to occur on only one side so I don't forsee this being an issue for quite some time since I have 2 new OEM strut mounts installed.

When/if the problem occurs again or if I have another reason to disassemble the suspension, I'll go ahead and modify the strut mounts to accept longer studs so I can use a reinforcement plate. Even though there have been no reports of nuts loosening or threads being sheared, I'd rather have the peace of mind knowing that the nut is properly torqued and secure than have a seed of doubt in the back of my mind.

 

Remember also that the strut mounts have been redesigned, that alone my eliminate the problem all together eliminating the need for the additional after market bolt on plates.

 

Thanks Ron! That is good to know that they have been re-designed.

I did notice that the part number had changed when I looked it up at www.realoem.com but didn't know if that meant a re-designed part. When I asked my mechanic he said it could mean that the part was re-designed or that the new number indicated that the part was produced by a a different source.

 

As with MINI windshields, the long term durability of any design change remains to be seen.

 

Well, at least there on it and it's been redesigned rather then not. I got the offical word that it was redesigned from Irvine MINI here in SoCal.

 

I wonder if PPG makes an aftermarket strut mount?

 

What's PPG?

 

PPG is an glass manufacturer. They make OEM windshield for a lot of cars and aftermarket windshields. For MINI they make an aftermarket windshield which has shown to be more durable than the OEM windshield, including the "reformulated" OEM windshield.

 

Thanks Dave.

 

RonP, When you say the strut mount has been redesigned are you saying that the top of the strut tower has been beefed up? I hope this is the case because I am concerned about this issue and this would seem to be a step toward correcting the problem. I was considering the M7 plates but the short stud/nut issue has me reconsidering this option.

 

jus replace all six nuts w/'04 or '05 ///M3 style nuts(they feed down on ur studs more rather than sit on top) it will werk jus fine
....u might need to open up tha holes on tha M7 unit to get tha botls to fit properly

 

I assume the M nuts are like the JCW strut bar nuts I have seen. That does appear to be a possible remedy.

 

I'd love to see a picture of these mysterious nuts. I can't picture these from the descriptions.. . .

 

I noticed that the new mount has a good 1/2" depression in it around the top, the old mount did not. I enquired at the dealer and they told me this was because of the redesign. That's all I know.

 

yeh kinda, but they r beefy 'n not sleeved like them crappy JCWerx ones...'n like all M stuff made to last

::had a pic. on em but cant find it now!

 

Yucca, see the link to the JCW installation instructions posted by "rkw" seven posts above your last post on the MF review of the M7 plate. It shows a diagram of the nut there. I would think the plate holes would have to be drilled out a little bigger to accomodate this but it would appear to put more "nut to stud".

 

 

Awesome! That JCW nut is perfect for this application and will completely eliminate all of my worries. I hope someone tries it soon so that we'll know if it works without having to modify anything. If this nut works with the plates without modification I'll buy those plates in a heartbeat (or I'll wait until such plates are available).

 

do a search over on MINI2, those nuts r junk tha M nuts r much better, i run 'em on my M7 strut bar they wont fall apart like tha JCWerx ones..
i've seen them and they dont compare to tha M set.

 

From what I have found the JCW nut and the M nut carries the same part number of 51717895241.