Ok ive asked this elsewhere but it seems to have disappeared into the depths of NAM with no replies

But how do i get to my boost return valve to check if its closing properly! Ive done the VGS mod and yes my car is alot my respnsive but for peace of mind i really want to check this valve! I cant see no DIRECT way at getting at it so im really hoping you wonderful NAM peeps can help me ....PLEASE :smile:

Many Thanx

A guy after a better and more responsive MCS !!

 

take out the bypass valve
when it is out hold the bypass to the light
and see if any light is coming past the butterfly when fully closed
then adjust the grub screw on the side with an allen key to ensure it fully closes
it should not take you any more than an hour to do the job
use the throttle body how to on this site from randy webb
they are very helpfull
when you have the throttle body out just remove the bypass its right beside it
hope this helps

 

It sounds like you know how to check the valve, you need instructions on getting to it, right?

HERE are some brief instructions from Ryephile on the process. You would be well-advised to get a Bentley manual to help you picture all that needs to be done.

Also, you can find some pictures HERE (The Yo Yo Chronicles) of some of the disassembly process and in other posts within that same thread.

I have done the procedure twice. The first time I was too heavy-handed trying to get the bypass valve off the plastic SC intake tube and broke a tab that secures the SC intake tube to the SC intake port. Be very careful here.

Also, after removing all four bolts from the throttle body mounting plate, tightly rethread the two bolts closest to the bypass valve tube; this will help stabilize the assembly and help prevent damage to the plastic SC intake tube.

Just a few words of caution --

You are working in very tight quarters where things will be very hard to remove and replace. There are plenty of opportunities for parts to fall into the abyss and never be heard from again. You will need to proceed slowly and deliberately in your removal process; for a person of average mechanical skill, several hours should be counted on for removal alone.

If you have never tackled a mechanical tear-down in an engine compartment, do not do this procedure yourself. You can really get into trouble if you are not careful...

YMMV,

Theo

 

Cheers for the info guys.

I noticed when trying to get to the valve once id striped the Throttle body off is that them stupid clips are a right pain to get off the pipe from the boost valve to the sc intake........but i got the valve off anyhow, i did it while attatched to the intecooler downtube..was much easier this way. Was way out of adjustment so ive made it much better now

Rebuilt it all up, im concerned now koopah about my sc intake with u saying about a tab ? i can see a tab with a small bolt holding it on and the pipe does seem to move very freely (yet the tab is intact)...wish they made this engine so u cud see all the components

Well...took the MCS down the road and back and wow it feels awsome! Still a little yo yo but this is a vast improvement! UNTIL .......i cud hear air hissing rather loudly after ten minutes of driving! Think its that pipe from valve to sc intake so i may need some new clips...it is really hard to get this pipe attatched

But under close inspection of the boost gauge its now reading 11psi with just a bmp induction kit, modded boost valve and the VGS...

Right i best get these clips sorted when the engines colder

 

Cooper_Si --

The SC intake pipe DOES have some natural free play in the way that its mounted. However, the free play should only exist in a left-to-right and up-and-down motion. You should not be able to PULL the pipe away from its coupling with the SC intake port. If you can pull it out (as though you were extracting it from the engine), then you have broken the plastic tab. With mine, I could see the bolt and, with an inspection mirror, could see that the tab had cracked and that the tip of the tab had come loose and fallen into the engine compartment somewhere.

Try giving the SC intake an easy pull to see if it is mated solidly to the SC intake port or not. I had to work a little bit to get mine to reseat (watch for the green gasket being entirely covered). The best way to do this is from underneath the MINI with the skid plate and front apron removed.

Not sure where the hissing sound is coming from. Time to have someone pop in the driver's seat while you keep your head under the bonnet!

Good luck, mate!

Theo

 

well im happy to say the tag isnt broken...which is very lucky as i was pulling quite hard to get the BRV off ! (the little blighter)

Yeah the pipe thats hissing is definitley the one between the valve and the sc intake! need some new clips i reckon...now if only that m7 air intake was availabe off the shelf now

 

I pulled mine today just to see and it was a little out of adjustment, but the big thing I noticed was the intercooler boot wasnt completly in place ( barely connected to the runner )

All fixed and tight now!

 

The rubber tube between the BPV & the plastic runner is hissing? This likely wouldn't leak without any clips, as it's a snug fit. Sounds like it's just not seated.
Best - Bodinski

 

Thoughts on the hissing...

You may also want to check the rubber boot and clamps that connect the intercooler to the intake horn above the SC bypass valve. While you're at it, have a look at the boot on the other side of the intercooler, too.

Theo

 

im getting good at this removal business ! I attacked the BRV yet again this morn to fix the lower hose that attaches to the CS pipe, yes it hadnt seated properley so ive chucked away the standard clip and used a new one, nice and tight...that retaining clip u spoke of koopah for the SC pipe, the bolt was actually loose..must have been like that from the factory, but its nice and tight now (bodinski - id recommend using clips and not push fit as it wasnt that tight to be honest) While i was doing all this with the air pipes removed from the air box i also removed the firewall, to allow more air in for the BMP filter...wow doesnt the charger sound really loud now...god i love it !!

 

I wasn't suggesting you run without.
Glad it's fixed!
Bodinski

 

I Have finally found the opportunity to tear Flo apart again. My goal to adjust the bypass valve. My success so far . The clips that hold the bypass valve to the intercooler arm??? to the supercharger inlet pipe are turned in a manner that I can not get to them. Also I question how well the inlet pipe is attached to the supercharger. It would appear that I will need to dismantle the intire modular front end to gain access to the supercharger inlet connection and screw is it possible to pull the intire assembly out as a unit? (super charger inlet pipe bypass valve and intercooler arm.

 

hiya matey

i had the same problem, but i left the valve attached to the intercooler horn and did i slight twisting motion to get the Boost return pipe off the supercharger intake pipe, being careful not to move the supercharger intake too much like described above...once its all off id buy sum new clips to replace them pesky clips !!

 

How did you get at the bolt at the super charger inlet? The 1 the factory obviously did not tighten properly. Looks to me like the MFE will have to slide out to acccess the front of the engine?
Pesky! thats putting it mildly. Can't you bloak's come up with some more colorful cursing
Thanks for the assist I will be at it again tonight

 

Funny that because my bolt was loose also

but i never needed to remove it, i managed to leave the supercharger intake pipe in its place because the BRV pipe came off by twisting off slowly...not too much pressure :smile:

 

How did you get in there to tighten it?

 

ive got small hands, used a ratchet spanner with a large extension :smile:

 

Is this an issue that affects only S's or are Works converted cars susceptible to this BRV problem?

 

JCW kits make use of the stock SC bypass valve. Thus, the possibility of it being mis-adjusted exists.

Theo

 

MINI is completely ignoring this whole situation??

If that's the case, I wish I had perused these threads a little closer before taking the plunge.

 

Regarding the SC Bypass Valve adjustment issue:

Typically, a sub-contracted assembly will need to meet certain tolerance specifications for acceptance. However, neither the assembly manufacturer nor the purchaser will inspect 100% of the units; that would be cost-prohibitive and would impact production schedules.

Instead the purchaser will have their own quality inspection program (random or periodic) as well as signing-off on the QC program of the assembly manufacturer. The idea is to catch variances that would indicate a slipping trend in the quality of the item produced.

The mis-adjustment of the SC BPV on average is probably within or near-to specification tolerance. Mine was off a little and some have been off a great deal; but on average the have probably been near tolerance.

And since the QC process is random or periodic in nature, not every BPV that is off a great deal will be caught. So, some get through.

It must be remembered that this will be true of any mass produced product made from a number of sub-contracted assemblies. Tolerances will be allowed, and the QC processes will operate in an approximately similar fashion.

Of course there are exceptions. A high-end, limited production auto like a {insert marque here} may have tighter tolerance specs and QC the sub-contracted assemblies it receives more often/completely than MINI, BMW or Ford. But, tolerances WILL exist and you will find differences among the units produced; though perhaps within a narrower range than a MINI, BMW or Ford.

So, does this mean the MINI (Tritec) produces a shoddy product? Quite the opposite; it just has been made within certain manufacturing tolerances so differences should be expected. However, combine these differences ("tolerance stacking") with the other assemblies (heads, blocks, intakes, etc.) and the performance of one MINI might be expected to be a little bit different from another.

The interesting data to be collected would be a set of dyno pulls from the same MCS with:

1. a perfectly adjusted BPV butterfly;
2. a slightly mis-adjusted BPV butterfly;
3. a greatly mis-adjusted BPV butterfly.

I'm guessing that there will be some difference, but I'm not sure it will be a significant difference.

YMMV,

Theo