Anybody no where i can get a spark plug how to?

 

1) Pop out the spark plug cable.

2) Use a spark plug socket that has the internal rubber grabber thinggy.

3) remove spark plug.

4) Installation is the reverse of the above.

It's really wayyy to easy. The rubber on the SP boot keeps dirt out from above the plug, so no worries there.

I don't have a service manual, so I don't know the torque settings for putting them back. I guess tignht enough, but not too tight!

Matt

 

5/8" "spark plug socket"
21 lb-ft of torque
don't overtorque, and especially don't cross-thread!

...and as always - if you don't feel you're up to the task, get a local MINIac to help out!

 

To combine the two above posts into one:

1) Carefully pull up on the plug wires. Watch out for the Intercooler Cover as it can catch/scrape your hand on three of the four plugs. The first plug change I did, the plug wires were on soo tight I had to get a little help. Also, be sure to remember which plug wire goes to which plug. If ever in doubt, the lengths of each will help and the plug number is imprinted on the square box the all connect to. If in doubt, do one plug at a time.

2) Using a 5/8" spark plug socket on an extension, loosen the plug. Pull it out gently as the internal rubber gasquet has ahold of the plug. Be sure nothing falls into the open hole!

3) Remove the plug from the socket and place a gapped (I believe .038 is the proper gap) new spark plug into the socket. I remove the extension/socket from the torque wrench and hand tighten the plug into place. This will help you with "feel" that you're not cross-threading.

4) Re-attach the torque wrench and torque to 21 ft-lbs

5) Reattach the plug wires. Make sure they're seatted fully onto the plug. Pull up lightly on the plug wire to make sure you have a good connection.

 

May I be so bold as to add .
Go get some dielectric grease ,cheap enough at your local motor store and helps a bunch if and when you have to take the wires off for any reason .

 

I'm ready to change plugs in my Cooper too(40,000 miles)
I've seen the plug gap listed as .032,.035, and .038 . There's a recent post under MINI TALK that says the plug gap is .065 which sounds way tooo wide.
Can some MINI holic set us straight? Is plug gap the same for Cooper and S?

 

The plug for this engine requires the use of a 12-point 14mm plug socket which is smaller than a conventional 16mm (5/8”) hex size. The hex on this plug is a 12-point (BI-HEX) and not a 6-point.

The thread diameter of the spark plug is also smaller than most regular automotive plugs your used to. It’s a 12mm diameter instead of 14mm. Hope this helps, thank you.

http://new.minimania.com/web/Item/G2.../InvDetail.cfm

 

Let me add one more thing. It is imperative that the plugs not be over-tightened as there are many reports of plugs loosening and popping out taking the threads of the head with them.

I personally do the replacement, torquing and re-torquing (which I do every 5000 miles at each oil change) first thing in the morning when the engine is completely cold. It seems safer that way.

Rich

 

I have a 2003 R53 Mini CooperS, How do I know if i have a round pin coil or flat pin coil without actually looking at my car?

looking for some help , thanks.

Danny

 

Check the underside of the hood and it should have a gap listed on the emissions sticker. The spark plugs should come pre-gapped but if the S plugs are at all like the Cooper then the gap is not really adjustable due to the recessed electrode and four grounding posts.

Stick to 30NM torque (21 ft/lb) and start them by hand to make sure you don't cross thread. Thread repair on a cylinder head is noooo fuuuun

Cheers!