I've had what I believe to be recurring FRM issues almost since I got the car nearly a year ago.

When it goes into 'fail' [red mini on a lift icon, in the tach display] mode I've usually lost function of:
Gauge lighting
Door window operation
Self cancel of blinkers [they still function but no dash indication]
Reverse lights

This usually persists for a while, then goes back to 'normal' for a while.

Today was a new state of operation.
Usual exhibition of the above, but with new loss of function
Windows were not indexing on open/close [not sure what I'd have done if I couldn't roll the back windows down to pull the glass under the top]
No blinkers at all
No headlight control [headlights & lower half of taillights were on, regardless of set position on the stalk]
No high beams
No lower dash [HVAC] lighting
No overhead 'ambient' lighting from the map light console

Door locks still work, map lights are good, rear 1/4 windows still work.

So, if I finally pull the trigger on replacing the FRM & get it programmed. Is it likely that it'll resolve all of these issues?

 

That would be my guess, but it's just a guess.......good luck!

 

Right, hate to drop $6-700 on it & still have problems.
The car was free & just my commuter, so not trying to put more into it than necessary. But yesterday's situation was a pain, more than usual. Mostly the windows not indexing properly. Would have been disastrous in the rain.

 

@ECSTuning
How do I know which FRM to order? I see 3 OEM options on your catalog for a 2010 R57

61353455896
61356827073
61356827072

Only 61353455896 indicates a production date range. The other 2 do not.
I'll have to wait for this downpour of rain to stop to go look at my door card for the build date.

 

Going to be rainy for another week.

 

Yup, seems to be drying up in the afternoons, luckily. Don't need an ark just yet.
Getting good at droping the rear window to tuck the door glass, without too much water in the car.

 

Door card shows a 12/09 build date.
@ECSTuning any advise on which FRM is the correct one to order?

 

Well, decided to pull the FRM & see if disconnecting it, then plugging it back in would do anything.





Best guess, when the A-pillar trim was missing, water was getting inside & settling at the bottom of the FRM cavity...
The lower connector is a little corroded looking, but not as bad as the FRM box is...

Is replacing the FRM even a viable option, with what's shown above?

 

Try disassembling the FRM to allow inspection of the circuit board and connector pins.

Are any of the 4 FRM fuses blown in the passenger footwell fuse box? You may want to look for similar water damage there too.

Also drive to the MINI dealership to see if the FRM water damage is covered by the recall.

 

Which are the FRM fuses?

Last I'd checked, my VIN is not part of the recall.

I did pull the FRM box apart, a little corrosion on that bottom corner, but not as bad looking as the box exterior. No idea how long it was wet, the car sat for a year before I got it.

I'd rather put a few hundred into fixing this, than try to find another cheap commuter. More concerned about the residue/corrosion on the plug on the car side.

 

4 FRM fuses:
2 30A fuses: F4, F8
2 40A fuses: F52, F53

​​​​​​​Post some pictures.

 

I'll try to get put & pull it again.
And check the fuses

 

Think I might try to clean up the connectors & board, and see what happens. Figure it can't make it worse.
If a few $ of contact cleaner & a brush will fix it, that's hugely preferable to $600+program.

Constant rain all afternoon today, so a project for a later day.

If I pull it, can the car still be driven without it? I guess it's not much different than it's current state.

 

I agree! Definitely worth trying.

The car will likely drive, but driving without working lights wouldn't be safe.

 

Currently, all I have is head/tail lights & brake lights. No blinkers, no reverse lights, no high beams, and no sidemarkers.
Luckily, the default fail state is for the head/tail lights to be on when the car is on. The left stalk currently has no function.

 

Well, it was worth a shot.
I'm out about $12 for some contact cleaner & a nylon brush. Cleaned it up best i could, no change.

Before


After

 

What's the condition of the FRM connectors on the car side?

Are the 4 FRM fuses intact and getting voltage?

 

Post #8 above. The lower, forward connector was a little green. Cleaned it up as well & hit with some compressed air to blow out any lingering stuff in the ports.

 

You need to replace the bad corroded FRM connector and check the FRM fuses before condemning the FRM. But the FRM definitely looks to be in bad shape.

 

Wasn't the this FRM under corrosion recall to move it elsewhere?

 

There is a recall, but my VIN is not part of it as of right now.
Not sure about relocating it, though.

My other curiosity, if I spend $$ to replace it, then my VIN gets included in the recall, will Mini reimburse the out of pocket replacement costs I've incurred?

 

Seems risky, but you should ask the MINI dealership this question.

 

Ah, I hate when they do that... I'm not sure how they determine those things but they will try to cover no more vehicles than they have to.

Good question I don't have the answer to. Best would be to give a quick call to your local dealer, but it's unlikely they will look at it retroactively since it can be a lesser cost to BMW to do the work by their own crew with their own parts (when you count down time and pre margin cost). It's possible that they may take care of moving it for you though if for some reason they know more than what's publicly available on recalls.

My impression is that dealership do not mind taking care of extra recalls. It pays for their work without a bother to their customers.

 

My guess is that it's a no, unless maybe if you had the FRM replaced at a Mini dealer, and later were included in the recall.

 

Understood but still worth inquiring.