Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

05 Mcs Crank, Stumbles, no Start

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Old Jul 24, 2024 | 12:41 AM
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05mcstwin
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05 Mcs Crank, Stumbles, no Start

Hello, 1st post. New to Mini, Actually, just bought it and didnt make it home. Not a good start, lol.

05 MCS, 6 speed. 84k miles. Previous Owner flipped it (had it for 1 week), but prior to that it was a 1 owner car, so Im essentially 2nd owner.

On my way home I stopped at a gas station and car did not want to start. It was crank, stumble, but then would go back to just cranking. Seemed like an electronic control was preventing it from running.
Previous owner just put in a new battery, so everything was dead/reset aka no check codes.

It has a new battery.
Spark is verified by pulling a coil and seeing the spark.
Im not sure if I hear the fuel pump. I can hear some relays clicking, but I didnt hear a distinct hum.
The chime is there, whether the key is in the ignition or on top of the ring (hoping that rules that out).
There is no inertia switch in front by the hood. The battery cable in the trunk seems to be well connected/not popped out.
Fuse 20 is good.

I left hoping it was an issue caused from being hot. about 30 min later I came back, nothing changed. The engine and SC was still warm to the touch (was only driving 15 min prior to this). During the test drive I stalled and it started right away, then after it sat for 15 min and I started it again and drove down the block.

I resent the ECU and after that, I did not get a stumble, just cranking.
I then pulled the on board diagnostic codes and got the following:
14.0 - 9248FF
14.1 - 632800
14.2 - 642800
14.3 - 652800
14.4 - 302800

I have no idea what these mean. Im not sure where to go from here. Im not sure if my car has the fuel relay embedded into the fuse board? I am not sure what the EWS and DME are and if they are out of sync, or how they would have gotten it. FWIW it only has 1 key and the battery is dead.
I left the car parked on the street and I am hoping to flat tow it home tomorrow.

Edit: If you leave the key in II, are the dash lights eventually supposed to turn off?
 

Last edited by 05mcstwin; Jul 24, 2024 at 01:10 AM.
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Old Jul 24, 2024 | 07:31 PM
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05mcstwin
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Update: It was the fuel pump. I had a hunch, and after ruling out the immobilizer (Which i highly hoped it wasnt), I started searching.

To give people that search some info.

At the time, I wasnt sure if I had the fuse box with the embedded fuel relay or the standard relay. Many people say the fusebox is on the passenger footwell, but that means left side. WIll be the drivers footwell if an American/LHD car. It was able to swap relays (my car only had 2 though, and all the pictures ive seen show 3), I had the same result.

I then took out the rear seat, and fuel (left side) cover to see if I could hear anything. Last night there were also lots of cars so I couldnt quite decipher anything. There click, but no hum. I tested the voltage at the fuel pump (its the 2 middle ones fyi), and I got 12v. I then tried to apply power to the fuel pump direct from a battery and got nothing.

When I replugged the fuel pump, I heard a whine for a split second. Aha! now I knew what it sounded like, but also now I knew it was the cause (the key was in the II position).

Anyways, changed it, primed twice, and it started right up. .
 
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