Supercharger Replacement/Service
#1
Supercharger Replacement/Service
Hello,
I recently purchased a 2006 Mini S with Supercharger. Heard a noise, took it to a Mini specialty shop and was told the Supercharger is on its last leg.
1. Can you service the S/C to resolve the issue? Or will it need to be replaced?
2. Is replacement simple or 10 hours of labor (I'm being told)?
3. I was also told that it is a few bolts, replace it with rebuilt S/C, all good to go.
4. Is a rebuilt S/C going to be better for the car than a new one? I'm told an older rebuilt part will get along better with other components that are not new. That a new S/C will make the other components work harder and ultimately they will fail also.
Please help! This is my first Mini..
Thank you!
-M
I recently purchased a 2006 Mini S with Supercharger. Heard a noise, took it to a Mini specialty shop and was told the Supercharger is on its last leg.
1. Can you service the S/C to resolve the issue? Or will it need to be replaced?
2. Is replacement simple or 10 hours of labor (I'm being told)?
3. I was also told that it is a few bolts, replace it with rebuilt S/C, all good to go.
4. Is a rebuilt S/C going to be better for the car than a new one? I'm told an older rebuilt part will get along better with other components that are not new. That a new S/C will make the other components work harder and ultimately they will fail also.
Please help! This is my first Mini..
Thank you!
-M
#2
The shop I took the Mini to and many videos I've watched are showing that you need to remove the entire front fascia, the wheels and hubs just to get started; they said it was a long strenuous job. I was told by a friend that there are four bolts and maybe a pump to remove and its smooth sailing to remove and replace. I am not entirely car illiterate but I am definitely no expert. Any advice is much appreciated!!
#3
You do have to put it in "front-end service mode" that requires the removal of the outer bumper and its inner bracing. It also requires the removal of the coolant, water pump, supercharger and other components (and replacement of related gaskets). 10 hours doesn't sound out of line for a factory repair recommendation. That said, it's a lengthy but easily doable job if you're good with a wrench. If not, you'll need to suck it up and pay the man.
It's also possible that the supercharger simply needs its oil replenished. There are two small reservoirs -- one at each end. One holds 100ml of S/C oil and the other 25ml (Delco special S/C oil). Understanding if that's actually the case still requires removal of the S/C but maybe not the cost of a new or rebuilt unit if that's your isse. If you are talking to a dealer find a second opinion/quote at another non-dealer shop. Good luck.
It's also possible that the supercharger simply needs its oil replenished. There are two small reservoirs -- one at each end. One holds 100ml of S/C oil and the other 25ml (Delco special S/C oil). Understanding if that's actually the case still requires removal of the S/C but maybe not the cost of a new or rebuilt unit if that's your isse. If you are talking to a dealer find a second opinion/quote at another non-dealer shop. Good luck.
#6
I would go for it. If you have prior knowledge working on cars, it's really not that bad. I can get into service mode in maybe 30min, once the car is on stands. Just watch a modMINI video, and have at it.
Most annoying part was that little coupler on the tube in the SC
Also, it could be the waterpump gears themselves. I had the same issue. Sound in the SC ended up being gears on the backside. I deleted the gears, and sealed it with a freeze plug. Serviced the SC and been going for almost 10k...but you'll have to go electric water pump
Details in my build thread here
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ilver-jcw.html
Most annoying part was that little coupler on the tube in the SC
Also, it could be the waterpump gears themselves. I had the same issue. Sound in the SC ended up being gears on the backside. I deleted the gears, and sealed it with a freeze plug. Serviced the SC and been going for almost 10k...but you'll have to go electric water pump
Details in my build thread here
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ilver-jcw.html
#7
Join Date: Nov 2021
Location: Under the car. As per normal.
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If you are talking to a dealer
>Le Supercharger is on its last leg
Based on what? A noise? How about a second opinion, even if this is an indy shop. These things take a lot of punishment and most people don't even know they need servicing (oil and seal changes). Some do fail but overall they're pretty stout and forgiving. Some open the oil sumps for the first time to discover they're dry. This is all said without knowing the mileage on your car where it's lived or how it's been driven all its life...
Unless the car is performing poorly and throwing several specific codes, would not be so quick to pony up for a new blower based on one guy's pocket opinion. First they're not cheap, at all. And second, neither is the labor. But neither is it impossible for you to do yourself.
As for the R/R Mod MINI has a good treatise on it here (and elsewhere on his channel a video specifically on front end service mode):
Last edited by Daftlad; 01-11-2023 at 10:27 AM.
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#8
Thank you all for your insight! I really do appreciate it!
-I have not (and would not) ever take a car to the dealer! >.< I went to a BMW specialty shop that an acquaintance of mine works at. Trustworthy in my opinion. They were the ones suggesting that the whole SC needs to be replaced just based on the noise level coming from the SC. They're the ones saying its "on its last leg" and if not taken care of it could blow the entire engine and that the car is a "ticking time bomb" :(
-The second opinion is coming from a family friend who has owned many Minis in his life and is claiming that it is very easy to replace the SC (if needed).
-Are there any indications or things I could look at to determine if it only needs service (or oil) verses a replacement SC? Are there any indications that I could look at to find out if it is the water pump gears?
-The car has about 158,000 miles on it. I went to the shop the previous and only other owner would take it to and got the service report, he maintained it to a T with all regular servicing OTHER than the SC servicing. The report shows that in 2017 the shop noticed noise from the SC and recommended service and again in Jan 2022 stated that the SC was VERY loud.
-The car performs wonderfully and is not throwing any codes at all. Other than the noise, the service reports and the noise, I would have never thought anything was wrong.
I hope that gives some better insight and can maybe help me narrow down the issue. I am feeling more comfortable about being able to do the job myself now as opposed to paying a shop. I have never worked on a mini before only Japanese Imports. >.<
Again, thank you all for any advice you can give me!!
-I have not (and would not) ever take a car to the dealer! >.< I went to a BMW specialty shop that an acquaintance of mine works at. Trustworthy in my opinion. They were the ones suggesting that the whole SC needs to be replaced just based on the noise level coming from the SC. They're the ones saying its "on its last leg" and if not taken care of it could blow the entire engine and that the car is a "ticking time bomb" :(
-The second opinion is coming from a family friend who has owned many Minis in his life and is claiming that it is very easy to replace the SC (if needed).
-Are there any indications or things I could look at to determine if it only needs service (or oil) verses a replacement SC? Are there any indications that I could look at to find out if it is the water pump gears?
-The car has about 158,000 miles on it. I went to the shop the previous and only other owner would take it to and got the service report, he maintained it to a T with all regular servicing OTHER than the SC servicing. The report shows that in 2017 the shop noticed noise from the SC and recommended service and again in Jan 2022 stated that the SC was VERY loud.
-The car performs wonderfully and is not throwing any codes at all. Other than the noise, the service reports and the noise, I would have never thought anything was wrong.
I hope that gives some better insight and can maybe help me narrow down the issue. I am feeling more comfortable about being able to do the job myself now as opposed to paying a shop. I have never worked on a mini before only Japanese Imports. >.<
Again, thank you all for any advice you can give me!!
#9
Join Date: Nov 2021
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-I have not (and would not) ever take a car to the dealer!
-The car has about 158,000 miles on it. I went to the shop the previous and only other owner would take it to and got the service report, he maintained it to a T with all regular servicing OTHER than the SC servicing.
-The second opinion is coming from a family friend who has owned many Minis in his life and is claiming that it is very easy to replace the SC (if needed).
He also likely has a tool collection suited to it, perhaps he could lend a hand as well. Could still be the water pump, or something else entirely. You won't know until you pull it.
So that we all know the numbers we're talking about:
https://www.waymotorworks.com/r53-po...ercharger.html
https://www.outmotoring.com/supercha...657556981.html
Substantially less for a 'gently used' lower mileage example from eVilbAy and/or Co-Farts etc but indeterminate condition, maintenance history, expected miles left etc. You'll always wonder, but if the above is not in the budget would go the used part route before trusting the sketchy indy shop or taking out a mortgage (and hating yourself) for the Stealership. You can always send the new-to-you junkyard blower to Way in the future when you have the time and scratch to do it right.
Last edited by Daftlad; 01-12-2023 at 04:15 AM.
#10
The shop I took the Mini to and many videos I've watched are showing that you need to remove the entire front fascia, the wheels and hubs just to get started; they said it was a long strenuous job. I was told by a friend that there are four bolts and maybe a pump to remove and its smooth sailing to remove and replace. I am not entirely car illiterate but I am definitely no expert. Any advice is much appreciated!!
Like others have said, it might just need a service. My first R53 had a noise, dealer diagnosed it as a bad SC, that was in 2017. It is still running fine(friend has it now). I serviced the SC on my current R53. Not bad just takes some time.
#11
The old JCW Supercharger was cheaper at one point and we were the only ones who had them in the world and sold out. Back in 2018. They were blowing out old stock. Now they built new stock and they raised the price so new ones are pretty expensive, So if you can find a place to rebuild them that work with EATON blowers that's an option.
JCW
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...11657556981kt/
Stock Cooper S https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...11657526657kt/
If all else fails you can always go with Harrop unless you have a automatic transmission.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-harrop-parts/
JCW
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...11657556981kt/
Stock Cooper S https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...11657526657kt/
If all else fails you can always go with Harrop unless you have a automatic transmission.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-harrop-parts/
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MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#12
Bumping this up as I am in a similar situation as the OP and many other R53 owners getting up in the 150k mile range. My supercharger has burnt oil on the water pump end and upon dismantling the supercharger further I found that though the gears aren't worn, but the rotor shaft is worn from the dry seal where it enters the rear wp housing. Instead of getting a new or rebuilt supercharger I am contemplating rebuilding the supercharger I have by replacing bearings and seals while keeping the rotor timing aligned and then cutting the rotor shaft on my mill just beyond where the bearing rides. Installing a freeze plug or weld an Al plug where the old failed seal was and eliminate the water pump gears, reinstall the cap on the housing and convert to an electric water pump. The idea being that the supercharger should last longer and perform better without the water pump PTO gears and seals and actually be an cheaper fix, for me than the alternative options. Davies-Craig EWP-80 (currently $200 usd) seems to be the pump of choice for the R53 and what was offered in the Sprintex aftermarket supercharger kit. Thoughts?
#13
Bumping this up as I am in a similar situation as the OP and many other R53 owners getting up in the 150k mile range. My supercharger has burnt oil on the water pump end and upon dismantling the supercharger further I found that though the gears aren't worn, but the rotor shaft is worn from the dry seal where it enters the rear wp housing. Instead of getting a new or rebuilt supercharger I am contemplating rebuilding the supercharger I have by replacing bearings and seals while keeping the rotor timing aligned and then cutting the rotor shaft on my mill just beyond where the bearing rides. Installing a freeze plug or weld an Al plug where the old failed seal was and eliminate the water pump gears, reinstall the cap on the housing and convert to an electric water pump. The idea being that the supercharger should last longer and perform better without the water pump PTO gears and seals and actually be an cheaper fix, for me than the alternative options. Davies-Craig EWP-80 (currently $200 usd) seems to be the pump of choice for the R53 and what was offered in the Sprintex aftermarket supercharger kit. Thoughts?
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