Lower control arm noise ?
Lower control arm noise ?
Last year I started to hear a clunking noise coming from the front passenger side of my Mini when going over rough roads, especially at slow speeds. A local shop diagnosed it as a bad lower control arm but said that it didn't need to be replaced right away. I recently took the car for inspection to my regular Mini specialist shop and mentioned the noise. They recommended replacing the front struts and anti sway bar links as well as the rear shocks. I agreed because it is a 14 year old car and the suspension surely was worn. They also replaced a bad driver side outer tie rod.
The car drives like new now but I still have the original clunking noise from the right front. Assuming the 1st diagnosis was correct, is it OK to just replace one bad lower control arm or should both sides be replaced? 72,000 miles on it.
Thanks
The car drives like new now but I still have the original clunking noise from the right front. Assuming the 1st diagnosis was correct, is it OK to just replace one bad lower control arm or should both sides be replaced? 72,000 miles on it.
Thanks
That sounds like a hefty bill for work that didn't fix a problem. I'd be back in their face if it were me. Clunks can be lots of things. Now that we can eliminate struts, how are your strut mount bearings? Do you have any play in either front wheel when either kicked front and back of the front tires or rolled front to back with a foot? What shape are your passenger side engine mounts in? Could totally be the original diagnosis as well - those control arm bushings are a common failure.
Last year I started to hear a clunking noise coming from the front passenger side of my Mini when going over rough roads, especially at slow speeds. A local shop diagnosed it as a bad lower control arm but said that it didn't need to be replaced right away. I recently took the car for inspection to my regular Mini specialist shop and mentioned the noise. They recommended replacing the front struts and anti sway bar links as well as the rear shocks. I agreed because it is a 14 year old car and the suspension surely was worn. They also replaced a bad driver side outer tie rod.
The car drives like new now but I still have the original clunking noise from the right front. Assuming the 1st diagnosis was correct, is it OK to just replace one bad lower control arm or should both sides be replaced? 72,000 miles on it.
Thanks
The car drives like new now but I still have the original clunking noise from the right front. Assuming the 1st diagnosis was correct, is it OK to just replace one bad lower control arm or should both sides be replaced? 72,000 miles on it.
Thanks
Last edited by TG.; May 29, 2022 at 09:57 AM.
The lower control arm bushings on the R56 are crap, so I'd replace them both. Unfortunately it's not a super easy job. On the 2008 I think you can do it without fully dropping the front subframe but it's fiddly, on my 2012 it requires a front subframe drop. I do most of my own work but for me this was one for the shop.
To test the LCA bushing turn the wheel slightly outward on that side and give the top half a good firm kick with your heel. If you can make the wheel move back and forth more than a little (or definitely if you hear a clunk) then they're shot.
If you're going to replace them, strongly recommend going with the Powerflex polyurethane ones as they will last much longer and perform better.
To test the LCA bushing turn the wheel slightly outward on that side and give the top half a good firm kick with your heel. If you can make the wheel move back and forth more than a little (or definitely if you hear a clunk) then they're shot.
If you're going to replace them, strongly recommend going with the Powerflex polyurethane ones as they will last much longer and perform better.
The lower control arm bushings on the R56 are crap, so I'd replace them both. Unfortunately it's not a super easy job. On the 2008 I think you can do it without fully dropping the front subframe but it's fiddly, on my 2012 it requires a front subframe drop. I do most of my own work but for me this was one for the shop.
To test the LCA bushing turn the wheel slightly outward on that side and give the top half a good firm kick with your heel. If you can make the wheel move back and forth more than a little (or definitely if you hear a clunk) then they're shot.
If you're going to replace them, strongly recommend going with the Powerflex polyurethane ones as they will last much longer and perform better.
To test the LCA bushing turn the wheel slightly outward on that side and give the top half a good firm kick with your heel. If you can make the wheel move back and forth more than a little (or definitely if you hear a clunk) then they're shot.
If you're going to replace them, strongly recommend going with the Powerflex polyurethane ones as they will last much longer and perform better.
Thanks!
That's almost certainly the LCA bushing, yes. You can just replace the bushing. Strongly recommend upgrading to poly, this should be what you need: https://www.powerflexusa.com/shop/pr...=1448#attr=149
Definitely replace both sides. You've got an earlier Gen 2 so it may be possible to do the job just by lowering the front subframe rather than fully removing it. It's still not easy but there are videos on YouTube showing the job. On my 2012 I tried it that way but found out that it required dropping the subframe completely, so I ended up taking it to a shop.
Definitely replace both sides. You've got an earlier Gen 2 so it may be possible to do the job just by lowering the front subframe rather than fully removing it. It's still not easy but there are videos on YouTube showing the job. On my 2012 I tried it that way but found out that it required dropping the subframe completely, so I ended up taking it to a shop.
I got a 2nd opinion from a body shop I have used. The mechanic said no problem replacing just one control arm. Also said they fail so much on Subaru Forrester they keep LCA's in stock at the shop for that car. The sentiment was "it's a 14 yr old car, just repair as needed.
Had just the LCA replaced; problem solved, no more noise. Bushings were OK. With this repair and the new struts/rear shocks the car rides like new.
Had just the LCA replaced; problem solved, no more noise. Bushings were OK. With this repair and the new struts/rear shocks the car rides like new.
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