So I f_ed up while removing the rear chock.
I did a rookie mistake and as I worked upside down I tightened one of the bolt instead of loosening it, thinking it was just rust.
Now I broke the head and I'm struggling like mad to find a way to remove the remaining part of the bolt. There doesn't seem to be any access from the other side either...

Does anyone know a good way? I tried one of those bolt extractor tool but there is very limited space to drill and it is not bitting...
I'm at a loss and a bit stuck... . . . so frustrating for such a dumb mistake...

 

Is that an opening on the right where you can touch the other end of the bolt?

If so, maybe go the the way and tighten the piece to run it all the way through the other side and retrieve the piece with your fingers or a magnet once it falls out. That’s assuming there’s enough room above the bolt in that cavity that the it won’t get stuck. If not, this still might work but there’ll be a chance of the trapped piece rattling around when driving.

The pic is a little blurry, but if enough is sticking out you might be able to grind a slot in the end and remove the piece with a screwdriver.

Also, some penetrating fluid might help loosen the piece for whatever method you try.

 

Yes, sorry for the blurry picture. A mix of panic and frustration . . . Here's a clearer shot. It's deceiving. the bolt doesn't stick out but is rather recessed in. So no way to grab it.
I started to make a mess of things trying to see if I could unthread it with a tool. I have the wrong tool(s) obviously. I stopped to cool down and worked on the other side.
BTW: the slot idea is what I first tried and why I think I made a mess of things now.

Unfortunately the pocket behind seams completely closed off except a small hole nearby... not sure it's budging one way or the other.
When I tightened I wonder if the threads got really tight. It should not once the head is out but who knows. These bolt seem to come with thread locking compound on them.

Worse come worse, and observing more closely the assembly and how it meets with the car sheet metal body, it looks like it's probably okay to drive like this for a short distance to get it to a garage shop. But I really would rather get it out though...

 

Well I used my Dremel to at least center the hole I had made poorly.
If some one has good ideas or a good brand of bolt remover tool please let me know! Keep in mind the bolt is hardened steel. Drivable. Not fun.

I'm going to sleep on it and see what to do tomorrow...
.G

 

Decided to assume my mistakes and go see a shop. I just don't have the right equipment. The car is back on its feet minus the one bolt. I'll do a test drive around the block to make sure it's okay to drive to the shop... Dam so often it's the Littles things that ruins the day.

You all enjoy memorial day...
.G

 

Sorry, it’s hard for me to tell what you were working on… what is held by that stud / bolt?

 

It's the left mount of the rear shock holder. The Metal plate housing on which the shock is mounted to and that attaches to the car body. The large hole to the left of the broken bolt (on the my previous post) is where the shock is recessed. The broken bolt is one of the two bolts that holds that plate at the very top of the shock assembly. The bolt is stuck in the car body and not accessible from the other side.

 

Ah, I see now.

I would be tempted to try something like this:
https://www.penntoolco.com/alden-dri...7p-61-008-906/
If the bolt is not corroded in there, it might come out pretty easy.

Failing that, I would drill it right out and get a thread repair, like a Heli-Coil or Timesert.

 

I tempted something like that but made the matter worse. I think the bolt is held by antilock glue and as a result the tip of my tool remover broke in it. I should have left it alone. They don't do a good enough job explaining what applications these tools are good for.
Now I suspect a little swearing when the mechanic gets to it... I feel bad for him ahead of time!

 

The car is fixed!

So I ended taking it to a garage shop. I didn't have the equipment. The mechanic could not remove the bolt the traditional ways either so he ended up making a small window with a welding torch behind the wheel well liner and was able to cut out the hold bold and nut. Weld a new nut. Close the window. Weld it shut and paint over the weld.
he did a great job I'm glad I stopped the damage when I did.

I had him do the front strut, and an alignment. The car feels great now with its new suspension.
What a relief...

Before taking it there I gave it a thorough wash inside and out. After 9 Years the car still look fantastic. Now I'm ready to plan our next road trip