I’ve been having an annoying issue with my 2012 r56 Mini Cooper base, ever since I got the CVT transmission oil and gasket service. It drove like a dream from the shop. But about 2 weeks later, the car has developed a weird issue. It’s hard to explain. Now, it doesn’t happen all the time but when I get in my car in the morning to drive to work. I start the engine like normal. I live in a condo and by the time my car makes it to the second condo garage gate, naturally, I come to a full stop and wait for the gate to open. It is during this time, the car has a feeling like the gears have “dropped” or “disengaged”. It is very abrupt! It usually lasts about 0.05 seconds. Upon pressing the gas pedal, there’s no power, what I mean by no power is I’m flooring the gas pedal and the car literally crawls up the condo ramp, I’m probably going (5km/hr) up the ramp. By the time I reach the top of the ramp, then the gears feel like it “re-engages” and it drives normally for the rest of the day. No more issues. This only happens when the engine is cold or not driven for more than 7 hours. Sometimes it happens when I drive back home after leaving work (8 hours later). I drive to work 5 days a week and it seems to randomly happen about 3-4 days of the week. I’ve attached a picture of a complimentary vehicle scan report that I got from a local transmission shop. I’ve also included my own personal maintenance log that I’ve since started to record after the CVT oil and gasket change back in June 2021. The car has been to 2 different mechanics and they’re all stumped. The following log tracks what has been changed and my personal thoughts on what has happened and is continuing to happen. Also, other than the morning “jerk” , the car runs fine for the rest of the day.

[[ Maintenance LOG as of June 2021 ]]



✅CVT tranny gasket & filter replacement done June 2021
✅Engine coolant flush June 2021
✅Spark plug July 2021
✅Ignition coil July 2021
✅Oil changed @ 96,500km Sept 25,2021
Fuel injector nozzles?
✅Fuel filter changed @ 96,500km Sept 25,2021
MAF SENSOR CLEANING?
O2 sensor ?
✅Cabin filter changed @ July 2021
✅Engine air filter changed @ July 2021
✅Valve cover gasket changed @ July 2021
✅2 VVT VANOS - Both intake and exhaust was changed Sept 25,2021 and codes reset

Transmission Filter level checked on Aug 21, 2021

Issues:
Cold start mornings (condo garage) or after car has been off for more than 8 hours ( and/or sitting in sun with hottest Celsius exposure of 37°) upon ignition the engine will have a repetitive chug chug sound and upon shifting Into 2-3rd gear and coming to a stop 🛑 for a few seconds, the car feels like a single sudden jolt shakes the car. Upon pressing the gas, the REVS go 1000-2000 rpm but the car does not move (very brief 2 sec max?) after 1-2 seconds, the car hard shifts into gear and is good to drive without further issues for the day. The issue is intermittent and does not happen everyday. Could it be an electrical issue???

• Possible engine load? Having AC off in the morning has no effect at averting the issues
• Pre-shifting the car through the gears while parked has no effect at averting the issues
• Cold or hot ambient temperatures has no effect at averting the issues
• Heat dome during summer 42° outside. Car sat under direct sun, still had the issue after work
• Low oil has no effect at averting the issues
• Car has been filled with premium gas since first ownership
• Car oil changed every 8-10,000km


Possible?
Transmission shift solenoid faulty?
Faulty electrical harness near transmission?

Today:
Arrived at 2nd condo garage gate. No jerk. But no power either. From gate to up ramp, I was flooring it but the car was going super slowly up the ramp. Maybe 5km/hr. Parked at curb to type this message. 9:15am 20° outside

1.6L 16V MPI N16B16A engine

96,500km as of Sept 25,2021

• 2 VVT VANOS - Both intake and exhaust was changed Sept 25,2021 and codes reset and oil & filter was changed.
• Fuel filter under car seat was changed
Sept 25,2021


Next oil change at 108,000 KM

Sept 26, 2021

This morning, I started car as normal and the problem still persists. Changing the VVT didn’t fix the issue. At the gate, the car has the sensation of gears disengaging and re-engaging. Total sensation lasts about probably 0.5 seconds.

Sept 29,2021
Same issue as sept 26,2021.

PS. The Dash board does not have CEL or any other error codes. I do not own a OBD2 scanner but am open to buying one. Does anyone have good recommendations?

The free check vehicle report I got from a local transmission shop.

thanks in advance to anyone that can help me with this matter. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻

 

Others with actual expertise will probably chime in but my first thought when reading your post was automatic transmission fluid (or ATF) specification and/or one or several clogged up/damaged transmission shift solenoid(s). R56 come with classic torque converters, not CVT's.

Nevertheless, I'd like to ask for clarification:
1. Does " ✅CVT tranny gasket & filter replacement done June 2021"
refer to an AT gasket and internal ATF filter replacement, during which the automatic transmission (AT) was re-filled with fresh ATF fluid of the correct (!) specification?

2. Does "Transmission Filter level checked on Aug 21, 2021 "
refer to ATF level check, taking into consideration the ATF's temperature as reported by the car via OBD, using the AT overflow pipe while the engine is idling and the car is levelled?

ATF increases its volume significantly with temperature. If it is just low of its required level (causing the issues you have when cold), it may reach the minimum required volume as it heats up (and thus work fine until it cools down again).

If the above points were executed correctly, then a worn (or damaged from wrong specification ATF) solenoid may indeed be the cause for the issues. But this is where (hopefully) more knowledgable users than me will come in.

 

[ For clarification ]
1. Yes, it does refer to the AT gasket and the internal ATF filter, during which the mechanic refilled it with fresh and correct fluid.

2. Aug 21 - my car was dropped off at the mechanic’s shop for about 3 hours and I’m taking his word and expertise that he double checked that it indeed is at the correct fluid level.

3. Will a damaged solenoid throw up a code? Specifically, which solenoids are you thinking about?
4. How to diagnose my car if I’m experiencing either an electrical or mechanical issue?

Thank you for responding 🙏🏻

 

1.: Can you verify the specification of the ATF? E.g. by what is stated on the invoice or possibly a partially empty container that was handed over or shown to you?
For AT GA6F21WA (AISIN): ATF JWS-3309
For GA6F21FT/GA6F21AW/GA8F22AW (AISIN): ATF6
If your Mini was produced for the US market, its transmission is of the GA6F21WA type.

2. Did the shop choose the wording "Transmission Filter level checked" and/or "CVT tranny gasket & filter replacement"?
If so, I'd consider doubts in respect to their expertise founded.

3. I don't know. Regarding the solenoids, search for images of "GA6F21WA valve body" to get an impression on the complexity of the internal solenoids and valves.

4. I'll leave that for a knowledgeable user to respond to.

Regarding OBD scanners:
If you get one, make sure that it is BMW compatible, i.e. can access and read out codes from all ECUs, not just the standardised ones like engine. Personally, I use ISTA on a virtual machine on my laptop or (most of the time since it is more practical) Deep OBD on my android phone. Deep OBD is free, free of trackers and works a charme with a cheap chinese USB - OBD2 adapter for BMWs/Minis.

 

It sounded to me like you are low on fluid, but I wonder if there coul be an issue if they are over-filled. Pretty easy to check. Remove the driver tire and loosen the nut on tranny pan. Start the engine and remove nut, there is an overflow tube that maintains the correct amount of oil. You can verify that tube is under the drain plug by loosening it (backing it out with 5 mm Allen wrench). Just make sure you return the overflow plastic tube where it is flush and can receive plug. I would add some until it starts spilling back out. Reinstall plug and drive it.

 

While it wouldn't explain the two weeks after the AT filter and gasket replacement, during which the car worked fine, there is no harm in checking the fluid level (assuming of course, that it is of the right specification in the first place).

However: It is not simply a job of unscrewing a couple of nuts and pouring in oil until it overflows and then wait until overflowing stops:

1. The car has to be level and at the same time accessible from both underneath AND top. So this is not a two-hands, curb-side job.

2. Due to AT fluid's significant volume increase as it gets warmer, the only way to make sure that the fluid level is correct is to monitor its temperature and only check its level when it is within the specified temperature window (IIRC between 30 and 40 degrees C correct: between 35 and 45 degrees C, see my post below). Doing this by measuring the temperature of the overflowing oil is not only very inaccurate, it is also not possible if the AT is underfilled. The only "right" way is to access the AT fluid temperature with an appropriate OBD scanner (both ISTA and Deep-OBD I mentioned above do so).

And since the op went to a shop for a gasket and filter change (instead of doing it themselves), I would also throw in a couple of "noob" hints like:
- make sure you first loosen the ATF filler plug BEFORE opening the drain plug!
- there are two filler plugs available: one from the top (easier for non-turbo models to access), one from the left (accessible through the left hand wheel arch). EDIT: For this procedure, the correct filler plug must be used. See below posts for more information!
- whichever filler plug is used, try to get a screw-on hose adapter. Otherwise, filling in fluid becomes very messy.
- if not 100% confident that the car was produced for the US market (and was not e.g. imported from Canada or elswhere), first find out which AT is fitted (see my previous post above) in order to make sure you use the right specification fluid. By the way: ISTA also reports the kind of AT fitted.

 

You're making this entirely too complicated. Agreed, it would be hard to do without a garage. Aligning the car perfectly to verify dluid level is bonkers. If the front was up a little, how much volume do you think it is off? The point is to verify it's has enough ATF. Whatever the owners manual recommends is what I would use, also. If it's low in fluid cold, imagine how much fluid it needs warm. Mate, You asked for feedback, proper oil is important; proper oil level is critical. Just so you know when you pull the plug, have someone start it for you. Oil just doesn't come spurting out. If it's too full it is a small steady stream that you can control by replacing plug if you get nervous. If it's low you need to add it through the bottom cause it's hard to remove the little plug on the side of the case. You use a 1/4" tube on the end of the container. Squeeze half or all, no worries. Plug it back up and let it idle for a minute, circulate, then pull drain again and see how much comes out. It's OK. BMW wouldn't make a procedure so complex their techs couldn't do it.
The other thing you could do is ask you shop how much and what type ATF. The head scratcher is did the shop really drop the pan and replace filter. There's a lot of work involved with dropping pan. Doing a partial fluid drain and refill is pretty simple.

 

Thank you everyone for the feedback so far 🙂

I’ll contact the shop on Monday, regarding the kinds of fluids they have put in. I’m sure it’s on the invoice unfortunately I’ve misplaced it and cannot ascertain the details of the job. My brother in law has all of his necessary car equipment at his house including jack stands, I’ll check out the fluid levels this coming weekend.

By the way, how come when I warm up my car for 5-10 minutes in idle, it doesn’t do anything to negate the jerkiness when I drive away? Sometimes it works but sometimes it doesn’t. What’s going on?

Ps. On the mechanical knowledge scale from noob level 1 to expert level 10. I’d say I’m a 2-3 😅, bear with me as I work through this journey.

 

One more thing, I bought my Mini used
from the downtown Mini Dealership in Vancouver Canada. I got it around 40,000km and it will just about hit 97,000km in 2 days. I’ve had it since 2016. Maintenance has been spot on since we first got it.

 

It's not me. It actually is BMW. And apologies, the specified temp window is 35 to 45 degrees C.

PS.: Why is it hard to remove the filler plug on the side? After removing the wheel arch liner, the plug is on full view. EDIT: The filler plug on the right should only be used if ATF is filled while the engine is NOT running!

 

When idling, there is only minimal pressure on the ATF. And if the engine was cold to start with, there is barely any heat transfer from the engine block towards the AT. So the ATF only warms up slowly.

Since you have an N16 engine (and thus access to the top filler plug is a bit easier compared to an N14/18), you only need to remove the intake silencer to access the top filler plug. Try to get an adapter like the one pictured (I got mine from a local parts shop for agricultural machines).

EDIT: The filler plug shown in the second of these pictures can only be used for filling in ATF while the engine is NOT running!

 

Georgios, brilliant place to add tranny fluid. What I meant to say about the plug on the side is that is unusable. As I recall I couldn't add fluid in that spot. One still has to remove the drain plug so I used it to add. If I had the sense Georgia's had I would have filled there and let it spill over at bottom.

 

Hi,

I talked to my mechanic and he filled my car with JWS 3309 OE 83-22-2-220-438.

This weekend, I'll try to get a reading on that fluid level with the directions you guys have provided. Btw, do you have any tips on what to look for, by that I mean, is there a minimum &or maximum fill line? If the fluid is a bit low, and as long as the fluid specs are the same, do I have to buy the same brand the shop used or will any brand fit the bill? Also, do you know where I can find out what the model number of my transmission is and is it easily accessible?

@giorgos What is size of that adapter? Maybe I can find a local agricultural company nearby that has something similar

 

- There is no minimum/maximum fill line (the instructions I posted above are BMW's official instructions towards its service staff).
- ATF's of the correct specification can be mixed. I'd choose one which has official manufacturer's approval (rather than states something like "meets", "recommended for", "exceeds", etc. on the can), if available fully synthetic.
- I have never read anywhere that the exact transmission model type is stated on the transmission and/or the car. I found out about the transmission type in my Mini by using ISTA.

I don't have the hose-adapter with me at the moment, but I remember seeing information for the thread type on RealOEM when looking up the part number for the filler plug. Even so, I took the filler plug to the shop and the sales person there identified the thread. Note: the two filler plugs discussed in this thread are different in size.

Btw.: the pictures included with the BMW instructions above show yet a different filler plug to these two.

 

this is NOT the fill plug . Regardless of it being N14 or N18, the transmission case/shell is the SAME. the fill plug is in the back towards the electric power steering motor.

this hole opens to a tight tube the runs inside the transmission. pouring atf will take forever and not to mention the mess it will create once the engine is running!

 

Thanks MiniToBe for setting this straight. I admit that I didn't think about whether using this plug will work while the engine is running (as required by the official BMW top up procedure). I used it for filling ATF after heaving measured the precise weight of the fluid that came out so I wasn't affected.

Here is the filler plug referred to in the BMW instructions:

 

yup perfect 👍
Generally speaking, don't always put back the same quantity of what came out. Over the years it could've been reduced or even over filled at the factory. So always fill it until it drips, then run the car and continue to fill, then run through the gears and fill untill it starts dripping again 👍👍

 

Is this the filler plug?

According to the BMW instructions, the torx socket has to be sawed off in order to fit. However, the space in my N16 LCI seems to be sufficient to maybe reach and remove this plug from above (after removing the intake silencer box only). And even if removal from above is not possible, filling up from above sure is. Judging by the looks of this plug, its threading may even be the same as the threading of the (wrong) plug on top.

Overview (from above):


Plug in question:

 

Yes that's it. It is a T55. I use a 10mm with the bit to get it going. It is SUPER tight so take your time on it. I also sometimes remove the bottom motor mount to swing the transmission away just a bit.

 

Hi guys,

I haven't had the time to check my fluid levels yet. I've got a buddy helping me check it tomorrow afternoon. Hopefully, we will discover another piece to this puzzle or it really IS just a symptom of low fluid. Thanks for all the tips above. I'll post results later

 

Well this is anti climatic, but we didn't have the correct extension in our tool box to tackle this project. Any last words from anybody else, before I consider going to a local oil&lube shop for a transmission flush?

edited.

I called about 8 shops in my area and most of them said that they can’t do a transmission flush for my car model and also recommended I just go to the dealership to get it flushed.

Needless to say The whole ordeal is very frustrating.

Out of curiosity I called the dealership to inquire on the service and was told “this transmission is lifetime And does not require service...blah blah blah” but I insisted if I wanted the service to be done regardless of what MINI designated, then how much would it cost and how long will they need?

She sighed on the phone and said between $800-$1400 and it would take 4-8 hours to do.

Wow. this is some Malarkey BS.

Mini really DOES NOT want anybody tinkering with that tranny. Whatever happened to “right to repair”? And a Bentley publisher Mini Cooper service manual is between $110-$200 for a copy. What the heck. This is just salt on the wounds.


looks like my only option is the original option and that is to do it myself.

I’ll need to get an extension and I've got a syringe and tube style of contraption to pump fluid into that top opening. That being said, I’m still a noob and this whole mess is kinda stressing me out.

 

Can you clarify what you mean by “motor mount”?

how does a transmission swing in any capacity?

 

Do yourself a favor and get a hose adapter like the one I pictured above. If you find you can't fill in the ATF via the actual filler plug, use a (different) hose adapter to fill in through the drain plug. The drain plug has an M10 threading (and if I'm not mistaken, the filler plug is an M14).

The entire engine/transmission entity in cars is not mounted rigid but on flexible mounting points. If one of them is removed, the engine block and transmission can be moved (within bounds, of course). I'd recommend supporting the engine with a hydraulic jack (and a piece of wood) so that the remaining mounting points do not get stressed over their limits.

 

Is it the same drain plug that is on the bottom of the car in the transmission fluid pan? Or is there another one at another location?

 

The drain plug is the one you see on the pan. There is also a plastic stand pipe that you need to remove. Be gentle with it, it should be hand tight.