Has anyone replaced their DME (ECU)
Has anyone replaced their DME (ECU)
This is on a 07 R56 with N12 engine mini hatchback (non turbo).
I cannot get rid of the P 2986 DME: Exhaust camshaft sensor alarm. With no other options available it has to be the DME. There is nothing else to check.
1. I have double checked the timing, it had been replaced by a reputable shop.
2. How I checked timing. Locked the cams in the exact position and inserted the locking plug into the flywheel (flywheel plugged right in once cams were lined up and locked). With the spark plugs pulled, all pistons were equal in height at 50%. This was verified with straws placed in each cylinder. I unlocked the cam and crank and 4 rotated engine 4 times and relocked the cams and crank (at flywheel). It was perfect. I rechecked it a total of FOUR MORE TIMES. With the cam locks locked down the fly wheel plug fits in perfectly. This shop did a great job. Timing is NOT off.
3. The area on the cam shaft where the sensor is located is clean and does not have any sludge or build up Something that would impede reception at the sensor.
4. Using a multi meter, tested DC current output at the sensor with the engine key on (engine not running). The sensor is showing 5v (orange wire), 12v (yellow wire) and ground (white wire) in left to right sequence, exactly the same as the intake side.
5. I replaced the sensor TWICE with original mini parts (of note they were Bosch parts from Romania, as I recall).
6. As soon as I start the car the sensor DME code comes on. While the engine is running, the alarm will not clear, no mater how many I try to clear it with BMW compatible reader. It will only clear when the engine is off and the key is inserted to acc (FOB on). However, As soon as car is started the exhaust camshaft sensor alarm returns.
Has anyone purchased a used DME with engine ECU- Cas and FOB (key)? My local dealership are nincompoops and I would be scared how much a new DME would cost for my mini
I cannot get rid of the P 2986 DME: Exhaust camshaft sensor alarm. With no other options available it has to be the DME. There is nothing else to check.
1. I have double checked the timing, it had been replaced by a reputable shop.
2. How I checked timing. Locked the cams in the exact position and inserted the locking plug into the flywheel (flywheel plugged right in once cams were lined up and locked). With the spark plugs pulled, all pistons were equal in height at 50%. This was verified with straws placed in each cylinder. I unlocked the cam and crank and 4 rotated engine 4 times and relocked the cams and crank (at flywheel). It was perfect. I rechecked it a total of FOUR MORE TIMES. With the cam locks locked down the fly wheel plug fits in perfectly. This shop did a great job. Timing is NOT off.
3. The area on the cam shaft where the sensor is located is clean and does not have any sludge or build up Something that would impede reception at the sensor.
4. Using a multi meter, tested DC current output at the sensor with the engine key on (engine not running). The sensor is showing 5v (orange wire), 12v (yellow wire) and ground (white wire) in left to right sequence, exactly the same as the intake side.
5. I replaced the sensor TWICE with original mini parts (of note they were Bosch parts from Romania, as I recall).
6. As soon as I start the car the sensor DME code comes on. While the engine is running, the alarm will not clear, no mater how many I try to clear it with BMW compatible reader. It will only clear when the engine is off and the key is inserted to acc (FOB on). However, As soon as car is started the exhaust camshaft sensor alarm returns.
Has anyone purchased a used DME with engine ECU- Cas and FOB (key)? My local dealership are nincompoops and I would be scared how much a new DME would cost for my mini
The DME can't be reprogrammed with typical BMW/MINI diagnostic tools. If you get a DME,CAS and FOB from a donor car you should be fine but make sure it has the exact same engine and transmission as your car.
But, before throwing parts at this car:
-Did you measure voltages with the sensor uplugged or did you back-probe it with it plugged it?
-With the sensor plugged in and ignition on, back-probe between the signal wire (yellow) and ground (white). Rotate the engine by hand at least 2 full rotations and monitor the voltage. You should see the voltage jump at some point indicating the sensor has detected TDC. If not, then you have a sensing issue and the DME is likely ok.
But, before throwing parts at this car:
-Did you measure voltages with the sensor uplugged or did you back-probe it with it plugged it?
-With the sensor plugged in and ignition on, back-probe between the signal wire (yellow) and ground (white). Rotate the engine by hand at least 2 full rotations and monitor the voltage. You should see the voltage jump at some point indicating the sensor has detected TDC. If not, then you have a sensing issue and the DME is likely ok.
I was wondering if the donor parts needed to be specific for tranny. Thank you for that.
I measured the voltages at the connector, with it unplugged with the key on (ACC).
I will follow up with it plugged into sensor and rotating the engine. It will be a day before I can do the work.
Thank you MrBean
Briscoe
I measured the voltages at the connector, with it unplugged with the key on (ACC).
I will follow up with it plugged into sensor and rotating the engine. It will be a day before I can do the work.
Thank you MrBean
Briscoe
Well, MrBean, I had a bad, brand new OEM cam position sensor. Checking the signal back to the DME showed it stayed at 5V. Put an old one back in, it show changes in differing values less than 5V.
You will be my hero the rest of today.. And, perhaps tomorrow.................
Thank you for taking the time to educate me on this.
Regards,
Briscoe
You will be my hero the rest of today.. And, perhaps tomorrow.................
Thank you for taking the time to educate me on this.
Regards,
Briscoe
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