Long story short, removed all fuse blocks looking for signs or corrosion or bad connections; none found. Eventually discovered the main relay wasn't getting the ground signal from the ECU. Rigged a bypass wire for the relay and the engine started right up! Removed everything in the ECU/fuse block area and after unwrapping the cloth insulation from the wire bundle going to the ECU plug noticed the brown wire with red tracer that controls the relay ground had a small area where the insulation was broken and moisture had corroded the wire. Cut out the bad section and soldered in a new piece of wire. Many, many hours of searching for the problem, plus a new throttle body that wasn't necessary. Can't imagine how much this would have cost to have it done by a shop, probably thousands. Glad I can do all my own work. Hope this might help someone else.

2004 Cooper S that was running perfectly before I stored it outside for a few months while I drove another car. Had the Mini on a battery tender the entire time. Everything electrical works fine, fuel pressure is nearly 50 psi but the engine won't start. Getting P1692 code indicating a throttle body problem. Replaced the throttle body with a new VDO unit and still not starting and the same code is showing. Tried resetting both the throttle and the ECU with no effect. I've read every thread on 'Cranks but won't start' and haven't found any answers for my situation. Battery connections are cleaned and perfect, as is the battery condition. Removed and cleaned all engine ground connections and checked all relevant fuses. Still no luck. I even jumped the battery but no starting.

Don't want to keep throwing parts/money at this problem so would very much appreciate some new ideas from you good folks.

Eric

 

I read on another forum someone had the same problem as you and it was his fuel pressure regulator at the fuel filter assembly
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d87c8f8eeb.jpg

 

I'm showing nearly 50 psi at the fuel injector rail with the ignition ON. I can hear the fuel pump come on and then shut down when pressure is reached. Tank is full of premium gas.

 

I've been checking things and discovered the ignition coil is only getting 1.5 Volts at the center terminal in the connector. I backtracked to Fuse 2 in the engine compartment fuse block and while the20 amp fuse is good, there is only 1.5 Volts coming to the fuse terminals. I removed and checked the ECM connectors and they look like new. Not sure where to go from here. Could be a bad ECM but I hate to throw so many $ on a guess. Any help will be appreciated. Still getting that P1692 code which comes back immediately after clearing it. Battery is fully charged and connected to a battery charger as well.

Update 2

I jumped 13 volts to the coil fuse terminal and verified there was 13 volts going to the center terminal in the coil plug. Still not starting. Obviously not just a coil voltage problem. Still searching for answers.

Update 3

Removed the engine compartment fuse/relay box, disconnected all connectors to check for corrosion. All look good with no sign of dirt or moisture anywhere. Reassembled everything and no change. Also removed and cleaned the ground junctions down near the hood latches. Still no luck and voltage at the ECU/coil fuse remains at 1.8 volts with the key on.

Frustrated in Ferndale

 

It could be your MAP sensor ? Cooper s has two map sensors one is located under the air intake pipe and the other one is just in front of the intercooler
Remove them and clean with a brake cleaner

 

Discovered that the fuse in the driver's footwell fuse box is not getting voltage. Suspect either water damage or mouse issues so will pull the kick panel and fuse box to see what it looks like on the backside. Really strange about that 1692 code, you'd think all the fancy electronics would be better at pointing out the problem. Like: "No voltage at ECU, check power circuits". Will report back after pulling the fuse block.

Eric