wastegate issues/need advice
wastegate issues/need advice
hey guys so i have 2013 cooper s. it has 174,000 miles and ive been having an issue with boost for the last 20k or so. i daily drive it 120 miles to work and as of lately havent had the funds to fix it or have it checked out.
the problems im having would be that it no longer feels like im hitting boost at 3,000rpm. i its pretty lazy until about 5k. i will throw codes for lack of boost, too much boost, and wastegate activation failure randomly durring partial throttle sometimes under load. if im full thottle i usually dont get any codes or limp mode in first gear and sometimes 2nd. otherwise ill usually get a limp mode message displayed at the top of 2nd gear and any other gear.
There are other times where it will not throw codes every once in a while. the issue started off being a on and off type of problem, eventually it got really bad while driving around normally. then it just disappeared for a week but now as just become a constant issue. ive learned how to drive the car and avoid the codes or limp mode by giving specific amount of throttle while accelerating.
list of codes i get
i have an exhaust vanos code, i had replaced the solenoid but cant get my scanner to reteach it
low boost
high boost
wastegate activation failure
blow off valve jammed
blow off valve stuck open
its a turbosmart one that is vacuum actuated and ive made sure its not stuck open. if anything its to stiff and doesnt vent properly.
thanks for any responses.
the problems im having would be that it no longer feels like im hitting boost at 3,000rpm. i its pretty lazy until about 5k. i will throw codes for lack of boost, too much boost, and wastegate activation failure randomly durring partial throttle sometimes under load. if im full thottle i usually dont get any codes or limp mode in first gear and sometimes 2nd. otherwise ill usually get a limp mode message displayed at the top of 2nd gear and any other gear.
There are other times where it will not throw codes every once in a while. the issue started off being a on and off type of problem, eventually it got really bad while driving around normally. then it just disappeared for a week but now as just become a constant issue. ive learned how to drive the car and avoid the codes or limp mode by giving specific amount of throttle while accelerating.
list of codes i get
i have an exhaust vanos code, i had replaced the solenoid but cant get my scanner to reteach it
low boost
high boost
wastegate activation failure
blow off valve jammed
blow off valve stuck open
its a turbosmart one that is vacuum actuated and ive made sure its not stuck open. if anything its to stiff and doesnt vent properly.
thanks for any responses.
If the turbo is OE, then the wastegate is surely way past the point of non-operation. Replacing the turbo is the only realistic option as the center housing is likely near toast as well. If you want old fashioned confirmation, connect a mechanical boost gauge.
Mini DTCs are not entirely useless, but nearly so, so take them with a grain or two of salt.
Don't believe there is an adaptation process for the VANOS solenoids. Replace and go.
Mini DTCs are not entirely useless, but nearly so, so take them with a grain or two of salt.
Don't believe there is an adaptation process for the VANOS solenoids. Replace and go.
blow off valve jammed
blow off valve stuck open
its a turbosmart one that is vacuum actuated
So this is your answer to those 2 codes. The factory BOV is electronically actuated. By installing and vacuum actuated valve you lose the electrical signal for the factory unit. You will always have these 2 codes.
blow off valve stuck open
its a turbosmart one that is vacuum actuated
So this is your answer to those 2 codes. The factory BOV is electronically actuated. By installing and vacuum actuated valve you lose the electrical signal for the factory unit. You will always have these 2 codes.
blow off valve jammed
blow off valve stuck open
its a turbosmart one that is vacuum actuated
So this is your answer to those 2 codes. The factory BOV is electronically actuated. By installing and vacuum actuated valve you lose the electrical signal for the factory unit. You will always have these 2 codes.
blow off valve stuck open
its a turbosmart one that is vacuum actuated
So this is your answer to those 2 codes. The factory BOV is electronically actuated. By installing and vacuum actuated valve you lose the electrical signal for the factory unit. You will always have these 2 codes.
If the turbo is OE, then the wastegate is surely way past the point of non-operation. Replacing the turbo is the only realistic option as the center housing is likely near toast as well. If you want old fashioned confirmation, connect a mechanical boost gauge.
Mini DTCs are not entirely useless, but nearly so, so take them with a grain or two of salt.
Don't believe there is an adaptation process for the VANOS solenoids. Replace and go.
Mini DTCs are not entirely useless, but nearly so, so take them with a grain or two of salt.
Don't believe there is an adaptation process for the VANOS solenoids. Replace and go.
i figured the waste gate was going to end up being the culprit i just needed some reassurance because its a big purchase for me. the arm coming off the waste-gate has a lot of play where the rod from the actuator mounts to it. there hardly any shaft play in and out and side to side from what i can feel. unfortunately does not look like the arm its self is replaceable or at least not easily. does everybody recommend an OE replacement or is there a good aftermarket solution on ECS
Replacement used turbos in the classifieds are usually around $350, that will be your least costly option. Don't get one with more that ~75k miles - odds are pretty good it will too tired to be a good deal.
Any turbo from 2007 will be a fit, however, if you end up with one from a N14, swap the WG actuators as they are not the same. Failing to do so will confuse the ECU.
Any turbo from 2007 will be a fit, however, if you end up with one from a N14, swap the WG actuators as they are not the same. Failing to do so will confuse the ECU.
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